Has anyone tried to open up a sizer die by pushing lapping rounds through it? I tried this several years ago with a lee push through die and it didn't stay round.

I need to open up a star die. Would a reamer cut it or is it hard?

I'm pretty sure the Star dies are hardened. Stillwell uses a Sunnen hone to open them up I believe.

You may want to consider having a machine shop or Stillwell open that valuable Star die up to what you want. I think Stillwell does a tapered entry also.

JMHO

Regards

Contender
If I had a cast bullet that I wanted to taper from .411 to .414 over the intire length of the bullet, say 1.25 inches, would you suggest doing this in a Lyman/RCBS sizer die?
Another thought that occured to me was to get a 7/8ths die made for a reloading press that I could put an already lubed bullet into and do the taper there.
Any thoughts on this?
Jim

I think if you had a good lathe and some die stock, it would be quite possible to do the tapered die. The trick would be backing the bullet back out without damaging it. I remember a Handloader article where the guy made nose sizers for the Loverin type bullets fairly easily. Might even be able to modify a Lee as they are not hardened from what I can see.

If you had one of the RCBS/Lyman type dies I think Stillwell could do what you wanted with it. You may be better off with a die of this type anyway for a tapered bullet due to the sizing method.

A custom mold cut for a tapered bullet would also be a possibility spec'd to not need any sizing at all.


Regards

What's the best way to take a Lee Sizing die from .430" to .432"?

Michael

What's the best way to take a Lee Sizing die from .430" to .432"?

Michael

Ranch Dog:

May not be "best", but this way will make it come out even.

1. Set a length of 2X4 on edge (or anything hard that looks like a chunk of 2X4).
2. Strip the parts and lube from the sizing die...want just a clean hollow tube.
3. Find a metal rod that hangs out both ends of the die by about 3-4". Rod to be strong, but undersized.
4. Abrasive cloth (various grades, but use a fine grade).
5. Wrap rod with cloth for a reasonably tight fit to the inside diameter of the die. Doesn't have to be too tight...just not sloppy.
6. Run it in, center the paper, and you'll have those 3" sections of rod hangin out the ends.
7. Put it on the edge of the 2X4. This way, you have room to grip the rod ends and not bang your knuckles on teh bench top.
8. ROLL while pressing down evenly. Check often...will cut fast this way.
9. Stop early, and switch to the very finest grit...just to polish.

By pressing down evenly and rolling...stopping now and again to measure, flush out the grit, can get it even from end to end.

The unfortunate thing about regual luber/sizer dies is that if you increase the inside diameter too much more than the rod that runs in it, will get leaks. The Lee dies dn't have this problem, and are the best choice for home-modification

What's the best way to take a Lee Sizing die from .430" to .432"?

Michael

Put it in the mail. You have my address.....

FWIW-

The instruction posted by Ribbonstone will do the trick.

I have the Saeco Lubrisizer and needed a .382" die for my .38-55. Saeco's closest is .378". Robert Stillwell will open it up but he charges more to open it up than the cost of a new die... and oh by the way - you gotta supply the die!

I had a spare .310" die on hand and after heating it with a torch to take out the temper - drilled it to .376" and then honed to final diameter of .382" as per the instructions posted earlier.

As far as a new center rod - go to one of the machinist supply houses and order a PIN GAUGE of the diameter you need. They are available in .001" increments and cost on the order of $2.00 for individual pieces. Length is 2" on most it appears so they would need to be shortened a bit - but a simple source of supply for those of us without a lathe!

Best regards-

Sky C.