I'm about to order a Trigger Happy Kit from Wild West Guns. Has anyone out there had one of these triggers installed on your Marlin. It is suspossed to bring the tigger pull to a 2-3lb pull and elliminate the creep that I have in my trigger. I really hope this helps. One of the very few things I don't like about my 444 is the trigger. I'm ordering the nickel plated one instead of the blue so it will stand out a little, kinda like the gold triggers on nice Brownings. Im haveing a gunsmith install a recoil pad when he puts the trigger in. I hope this will help the accuracy a little, I have to say after about 25rds of the 444 I was starting to flinch and my shots were suffering. I would love to hear anyone's experiences with this trigger kit.

mattpair -

Quite a few Marlin Talk refugees have installed the WWG trigger, myself included. I have yet to hear a negative report.

In my case the trigger went into a Marlin 375, and I did it myself. No other changes were made. Trigger pull weight went from 6-1/2 pounds to a crisp, clean, short 3-3/4 pounds. While others have reported even lower pull weights after making the switch, I am quite happy with 3-3/4 on a hunting rifle.

As to the recoil pad, I shoot some pretty heavy loads (48 pounds recoil) in my .45-70. I used a slip-on pad and stuffed an extra 1/2" of foam into it. At the time I was interestted in increasing length of pull and didn't expect much from the pad. I was wrong! The pad made my "Rhino Blaster" loads quite tolerable. If you find the pad your gunsmith is installing doesn't quite do what you want, try adding a slip-on as well.

Thanks for the reply, thats what I was hoping to hear.
Did you notice an improvement in your accuracy with the new trigger?

mattpair -


As to the recoil pad, I shoot some pretty heavy loads (48 pounds recoil) in my .45-70. I used a slip-on pad and stuffed an extra 1/2" of foam into it. At the time I was interestted in increasing length of pull and didn't expect much from the pad. I was wrong! The pad made my "Rhino Blaster" loads quite tolerable. If you find the pad your gunsmith is installing doesn't quite do what you want, try adding a slip-on as well.

Coyote Hunter,

I also found the stock on my Outfitter too short, so I did the same as you and installed a slip-on pad. Over the recoil pad, I put a slip-on cartridge holder that nearly covers the entire slip-on recoil pad, so unless you look real closely, you're not likey to notice it. And like you, not only did the stock fit better, I noticed less recoil.

I have the 1895 GS and put in the Wild West Guns trigger and I am totally happy with it. I added a Limb Saver recoil pad. I bought the grind to fit and took it to a gunsmith to install. This helps alot as the Marlin pads are like bricks. I have been thinking about installing a mercury recoil reducer in the stock too.

I have seen a Fox River muzzle brake on a GS like mine and they look ok too but I don't think that I would like that set up for myself.

Jay

If you are going to order a WW trigger, then try to reduce the trigger pull on your gun before you order. You have nothing to lose. Take your gun apart. The current trigger is two pieces. You want to change the angle of the shear. The shear is the top piece. With a file, flatten out the top of the shear. Go slow. It may take 8 or 10 tries to find the right angle. The hammer has two notches. The larger, deeper notch is the safty notch. The smaller notch is the firing notch. Polish the firing notch with a Dermil tool. Tooth paste works well. Then clean and coat the notch with a graphite paste made of non-drying grease. Over time this will actually work into the pores of the metal. DO NOT file on the hammer notches! When you are finished, cock the hammer, squeeze the lever to release the lever safety, and bounce the butt of the gun on the floor (on carpet and with an UNLOADED gun). Sometimes you can get too light of a trigger. If this causes the hammer to trip, go back and put a little angle back on the shear. This is not a hard job, and it saves a lot of money. It just takes a little time. I have done this to several Marlin rifles with very good results.

Now for the disclaimer. This information is for entertainment purposes only and not intended for non-thinking people who might try bouncing a loaded gun on the floor with the cross bolt safety off to see if the gun will discharge. Also, this information is not for people who might be tempted to file the hammer notches and ruin a perfectly good hammer, and thereby cost additional money. Also, this information is not for people who scatter parts or can not remember how to re-assemble their rifle.

Taylor's instructions and disclaimer are very good. I would add that the job of modifying the sear face angle is easier if you (a) buy a new tool stone ($5) and use a piece of glass over an old mirror to lay the sear on while stroking it against the stone. The glass over the mirror trick is a way to (a) get a little more light into the work area and (b) give you a flat reference surface while grinding on that tiny sear.

It is pretty easy to rework the Marlin trigger. But remember that if you totally screw up the sear you will have to order one through a gunsmith as Marlin won't sell it to ordinary lifeforms.

I'm very happy w/ the WW trigger on my Marlin 45-70 Guide Gun. I've got a Pachmayr Decelerator, and for bench work I wear a PAST Magnum pad that staps on my shoulder. Have fun, and if you decide to add a Dave Clay glove lever, order it direct from Dave, and tell him you've got a WW trigger so he can modify it accordingly. That'll save you sending it back for the easy but necessary modification. He did the mod for free.