My new 14in 30-30 Contender barrel locks shut about 1 out of 10 times you snap it shut, with or without a shell in it. It takes both hands and a lot of pressure to pull the release lever. I do not have this issue with my other barrels (10in 41mag & 14in 223). Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks.... Jim

When you say new, how new? Are you the original owner? What is the serial number? You may need the easy open conversion. I would send the gun back to T/C. I had a problem with mine being difficult to open and found out it was an early manufacture and needed the easy open conversion. They did it for free.

It sounds as if the angled cut in the barrel lug for the locking bolt is out of spec.

Most likely your 30-30 barrel would not fire in the 1 time in 10 that it does lock up due to the hammer block not dropping.This barrel would most likely unlock if it did fire.

It can be returned to the manufacturer to be reworked.This problem can easily corrected with a small file or stone if you have the skill.

H&R rifles ,Stevens model 94 shotguns,and Contenders all have a similiar lockup and can be corrected by the same method.

The first step is to smoke the locking cut with a candle(do this first with a barrel that locks properly). Close,then open the action,note the mark in the candle soot where the locking bolt engaged the cut in the lug.Smoke your 30-30 barrel and snap it shut then open it and look at the engagement mark,
the mark will barely engage the locking cut.
The angle can be filed lighty ,be careful to maintain the original angle.When I'm doing this job ,I make a light cut then resmoke the surface and recheck the fit.

If you feel this is beyond your capabilities don't hesitate to return the barrel or take it to a gunsmith

WC

Thank you for your responce, Jonny and Wildcat, the gun was originally purchased new in Jan 1985 with the 223 barrel, the 30-30 barrel was recently purchased new. I was wondering if some careful stoning in the right place might be the cure, with the information provided I will give it a try. Does anyone know if this vintage gun would benefit from the "easy open" conversion? Thanks again... Jim

Go here:

http://www.bellmtcs.com/FAQ/barrels_that_unlock.htm

Regards

Thanks Contender, great information!
Jim

If you have a Contender produced around the early eighties then your problem is you have a newer barrel with and older frame. You definitley need to send it back to T/C. Just call them and explain the problem and tell them you want to return it for inspection. Don't mention that you want to pay for the easy open conversion, i.e. play dumb. Send it back and they will fix it for free, at least they did for me. I could barely open the Contender up prior to my easy open conversion. I posted about this in another thread - old frame - newer barrel.
good luck

In reference to the article above posted by Contender, this addresses a different problem, unless I read the original post anomaly incorrectly. Is your problem having difficulty opening or the action opening upon firing?

Jonny, the problem is difficulty opening the action, to the point of starting to look for a rubber mallet! (no, I didn`t), but I thought I might have to take it to a gunsmith... I will probably check the engagement myself to familiarize myself with the process... but also contact T/C.
Thanks for all yuor help... Jim

You've got other barrles on hand that do work...and one that is giving you grief. The old barrels may have the original one-piece type locking bolt. The new barrel proably has the split-bolt.

Can always try removing the bolt from one of the barrels that does work and trying it in the new barrel that's giving you problems...if that cures it, need to find another solid bolt

From what I can deduce, it's stated the barrel won't lock closed in one out of 10 times it's tried. Then it's stated that when it does in fact lock, it's very hard to unlock/open.

This would lead me to believe it's a locking bolt engagement problem.

From what I can tell, he is not even getting to the point of firing the gun to have the pleasure of it flying open upon firing when it does in fact lock on every tenth try.

I may be wrong but that is how I'm reading his first post.

To see if a frame is an easy open model. Check the pin location for the trigger guard pivot at the bottom of the frame. If it is forward of the trigger, it's an old style. If it is over the trigger,(middle of frame) it's an easy open frame. This change started in 1981.

Also, be sure there is a 2 piece bolt on the barrel, not an old style one piece unit.

By all means, if you are not comfortable handling this problem, send the entire gun back to TC. You can also request lower locking bolts from them after explaining your situation. But that is hit or miss as to what thickness you will need if you don't measure them first.

Regards

Okay, I have the barrels out on the table in front of me, (I removed the 30-30 barrel from the gun), they all have split bolts, and the pivot pin on the frame is centered over the middle of the trigger base. Interestingly the 41 barrel bolt halves are different colors on the upper surface (looks like felt pen black), possibly only one is engaging? Sorry if my original post was confusing, the gun will snap shut (without a cartrige in it), then refuse to open again (cannot move the release lever). Again, this is only about 1 out of 10 times. I am doing the felt marker test and seem to be getting full engagement on the upper bolt surface. The 30-30 barrel bolt surface has a distinct .10in notch for the endagement surface, whereas the older barrels have a more gradual taper notch (looking from the side). Jim
P.S. As I sit here playing with this thing i am not able to duplicate the problem (forend off the gun).

I still say that you should send the gun back to T/C. Who better will be able to analyze and CORRECTLY repair the gun. That's one reason I hate buying used guns from tinkerers, not gunsmiths. You could cause a problem for one of your future grandchildren, unawares. Food for thought.
Besides, T/C has one of the best warranties in the business and their turnaround time is quick.
Note: When you ship the gun back and the lady at the UPS counter asks you what the contents are, reply machined parts so you son't have to pay the high shipping cost for firemarms. It worked for me. Eight bucks verses 25.
good luck

Thanks for the tip on shipping jonny, I will contact T/C and see what they recommend.
Jim