I was concerned about the accuracy of my two reloading scales, so I got a Lyman weight check set. After following the directions for checking the accuracy of the scales, neither one was within a grain of what the scales read. the two scales are a Baer (1960's vintage) and a Lee (late 1990's vintage). Now I am totally confused. Should I toss both of the scales and get a new one, or is the Lyman wieght check set at fault? :confused:

Jimbo,
I recently put the Lyman weight check set against my Lee and it was right on the money through the test range. I think if you experience any problems with Lee Safety Scale they will replace it. You might give them a call Monday and found out.

Michael

We ran a Lyman set over 3 scales and they all were within 0.1 grain until we got to 60.5 grains, where they were all .2 high. That was with all the pieces in the pan. If you can't find another scale to check, I'd add the weights to the pan one by one and watch for an error as each piece is added. If everything is fine with some weights on and adding one more gives you a 1 grain error, that weight has a problem. If the error grows as you add weights, suspect the scales. Might be an idea to run a second test with the weights added to the pan in reverse order.

There was a famous gun writer who had a famous load that some found a bit hot. John Amber of Gun Digest fame sent a set of check weights to several gunwriters and the famous gunwriter's scale was off by 2 grains.

Bye
Jack

The weight checks are probably right on...it's the scales that are off. And if off by a full grain, would have to do something about that.

Before you ship the Lee back, CLEAN IT. Esp. the pivot...clean and dead dry. A tiny bit of dust here would be all it takes. if the Lee is off by a full garin, ship it back to Lee...may take a bit, but they'll make good on it.

The out of date 1960's scale is a different matter. Have been faced with the same problem and attempted a solution that may or may not work..but the first step is always to detail clean.

The key ingrediant is a check of the check weight....for me, that's not hard as I've worked at some of the labs and universities. Once I know the weights are right (and they almost always are), will adjust the scale to show that reading on the middle weight. Can sometimes do this by adjusting the weight of the pan...some have shot in the pan holder that can be excanged...all can have the pan holder lightened or weighted by file/small drill to lighten and adding a bit of weight to the drilled hole to gain.

Once reading right for the middle weight, then check the others. If it reads "on" for the other wieghts can consider it fixed. IF it reads "off" on the others, take the scale apart and dump it in the junk-parts box.

Good points about the dust and cleaning ribbonstone. Also head the warnings about using the tweezers with the check weight set. Do not touch them with your fingers and keep them clean, in the box when not in use.

Another option I have considered is to go with one of the electronic scales. Searching the internet I have found scales that measure to 0.1 grain, up to 775 grains. I have also noticed that the major reloading tool manufacturers charge a lot for their name alone. The scale I mention above was under 60 bucks, while the name brand ones (specifically for reloading) seem to start around 100.

Another option I have considered is to go with one of the electronic scales. Searching the internet I have found scales that measure to 0.1 grain, up to 775 grains. I have also noticed that the major reloading tool manufacturers charge a lot for their name alone. The scale I mention above was under 60 bucks, while the name brand ones (specifically for reloading) seem to start around 100.

Jimbo,

Interesting question you raise. I use a Dillon digital which comes with a weight for testing purposes. Mine has always been right on, but if memory serves me, it cost around $160.

Additionally, the issue you raise is one more important reason to have the appropriate process (chronograph velocity increases) for developing maximum loads. The "book and scales" process alone could be incorrect.

Dan

If you are considering a digital, I highly recommend one that has an AC converter. Dillon was mentioned earlier. I have one and really like it for weighing cast boolits. sundog

What is y'all's opinion of the PACT BBK 2 electronic scale? I've been thinking about this one.

Don't know about the Pact - mine is the older Lyman 1000LE. Has been doing a fine job for quite a few years now. They have the 1200LE model out now.

It seems the digitals are the best, but cost allot more than the standard analog scales, I still have a RCBS analog scale, The first thing I did was level my table the scale is going to be on,this would be my loading bench. I like to have everything together. I always zero the scale and check the scale with check weights before loading, as a member described even a little bit of dust can cause problems, when I'm not using the scale I take off the pan and holder and I bent a screen like a V shape to fit over the scale and I drape a cloth over the screen to keep any dust out, this method works well, I can always tell if my scale is acting up, while measuring I noticed the scale will start acting erratic swinging beyond and below desired measure, If this starts happing, I just use a can of air and spray the areas that collect dust etc...put the check weights back on to see if I'm on the money if so, then continue to reload, I for the most part hand trickle all my loads, I dump 98% of the load and handtrickle the rest, this works the best for me. you can see a mile away when the scale is acting up. Aim small hit small. RAMbo.