Has any one had any dealings with the 375 H&H Improved? Is it worth spending the money to have a new rifle reamed out to the Improved chamber or best to leave it the standard 375 H&H? Will the Improved chamber give you longer brass life as it apears to me that the case might have less taper which I would think would decrease the case slamming back agenst the bolt as it should grab the chamber walls better. I am not a gun smith and am not shure that my theory on what happens in the chamber is even right. My guess is this would work the brass less. Can one still fire factory 375 H&H in the improved chamber?

Thanks for the imput: Leon

I considered the Ackley or Weatherby improvement for my .375 and have seen other shooters get good results this way, at least with the AI. (Haven't seen the Weatherby conversion). It apparently does give better case life, though I never felt the case life with my .375 H&H was bad. Another option is the new .375 Rem. UM. It might be just a bit more accurate than the H&H (and that is very accurate) and the guys I know that shoot them love them. I am leaning in that direction. The RUM gives better velocity than the .375 Weatherby or the AI version, and it's available in the very accurate Rem 700 with stainless steel and either composite stock or laminated, both of which should be well suited for the rainy regions where big animals are hunted. The improved .375 H&H is no slouch, however, and you can shoot regular H&H cartridges in it in a pinch. You should expect somewhat reduced velocity and accuracy however, firing the factory cartridge in an improved chamber, but it will work in a pinch and has been done by many. If you decide to have this done, talk with your gunsmith about using a reamer that does not allow too much freebore, at least not more than what will allow you to load to magazine lingth and not have the bullet more than .006 from the lands.

Leon,
As a fellow Alaskan, I'd stick with the H&H. A couple of reasons. One, the shape of the original H&H case allows it to feed like greased glass. Two, you won't have any additional expenses in rechambering. Three, the grand old H&H will handle anything we run across up here with absolute authority and any improvement will not likely be noticed in the hunting fields. Four, you can just walk into most any store that sells ammo, and pick up a box of the H&H, without fear of too much loss of accuracy. Five, call me cynical, but I don't think RUM version will be around in another 10 years, other than speciality or custom rifles. Six, you'll be more likely to recover the cost of the rifle as it is, rather than improving or rechambering if you should ever try to sell.

Being that you will probably use the rifle in the bear woods, really the only thing that any would have the advantage of is the smooth as silk feeding of the original chambering. The improved performance, and the one or two extra firings you may get from AI'd brass just would not be enough for me notice when considering the options.

Your decision, but I'd stick with the original if it were me.

Thanks for you feedback. I am pretty much stuck with the standard .375 H&H as I only have a left eye, and nobody makes really any thing but vanilla for us lefty's. If you can shoot a right hand action there are just tons of flavors. I did locate a gunsmith that can rechamber to the Improved or the Weatherby chambering. I think for the present I will stick with the standard H&H as it is common here and put in for a large order of brass. I like the fact that you said it feeds nice. I have not had the chance to pop a cap on one yet.

I was looking at the Lee Collet die set to increase brass life as they just neck size. Have eather of you tried there Collet dies? Could you suggest the best all-around bullet? I have been considering the Barnes 300gr X bullet and the Nosler 300gr Partition, Is there somthing better?

Thanks again: Leon

Leon,

I think that Sierra's 300 grain B.T. Spitzer is one of the best bullets going for the 375 H&H. I'm in the process of building a 375 H&H Ackley Improved for myself and two customers. This has proven itself to be, I think, one of the best "over 30" caliber cartridges going. Accuracy is superb, even at long-range and it will stop anything that walks....

DAVID

I've been shooting a Sako in .375 H&H Imp for several years. It was already chambered that way when I picked it up in a trade. Great gun, and case life is almost forever! Whoever did the rechambering on my rifle did an outstanding job, and paid attention to the feed-rails as well, since it feeds like oiled glass.

This is one "improvement" that does yield some true ballistic advantage.... but in truth the extra gain would be hard to quantify in the field, but on paper it sure does look great!

I enjoy mine.

I agree with Alyyeska. If it isn't broke, don't try to fix it. Took my Kodiak out of Port Hyden with std 375 and a 300 gr. Hor RN. Head on shot, went full length and bullet lodged just in front of the tail. My #1 shoots cast very well and make great practice loads. Good luck, Paul

Leon, I had one of my .376 H&H's rechambered to the .375 Weatherby. I get about a 180 feet per second more velocity over the older H&H readings. However, you do pay twice for that 180 ft per second understand. First time is to the gunsmith and the second time is when you load them up HOT near that 2800 fps reading. Your shoulder will tell you all about it the next day or two. You will develope a headache no doubt on a scale 1 to 10 after firing 20 rounds or so, yours will be at least an even dozen (12) or better. OUCH! OUCH! Ouch! :eek: :eek: :eek:

I have to once again agree with Alyeska on his words of wisdom! The .375 H&H will do all you need to do, inorder to tackle and take big game animals in the wild. My Daddy used to say also, "Son, if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it" words to live by you bet. :)

Leon I use Lee Collet dies on most of the calibres I reload. You don't have to lube the cases and they do extend the life of the cases by a factor of 10. I can't recommend them enough. Be sure to follow Lee's directions about putting at least 15 pounds pressure on them when you resize them.