I was wondering how I should clean a Model 336A.

The only rifle that I have right now is a Ruger 10/22. I know that gun inside and out. I use the boresnake and patch/solvent/lube method. I don’t use a brush of any kind so not to ruin the crown of the barrel.

But I was wondering the exact steps to cleaning my new marlin 336. Also Should I go to a smith to get the inside of the receiver smoothed out, or ........ Just what do you suggest. Thank You

Pulling the bolt is easy, and then you can clean it with a conventional rod. An MTM bore guide for a Remington 700, Winchester 70, etc. is a very tight fit, but it works. The trickiest part is getting that little wishbone shaped ejector back in. Instructions for removing the bolt and more are here:
http://shootersforum.com/showthread.htm?t=2168

Usually Marlins are pretty smooth, so I can't say if yours needs any work or not. Check out this site.
http://www.marauder13.homestead.com/files/TUNING_M_1894.htm

Bye
Jack

I appreciate your reply!

Here ya go. These links and stuff will help you out.

If you only shoot your 336 a few times each year, carefully cleaning from the muzzle end is probably OK. The danger with cleaning from the muzzle is that you may scratch or alter the rifling as it leaves the barrel at the muzzle crown. This could significantly affect accuracy and it takes only a few strokes with an aluminum cleaning rod to do it. A nylon coated stainless steel cleaning rod is best but they are expensive. A bore snake is a good option. I gave up on aluminum rods years ago.
Cleaning a 336 from the breech is extremely simple and this is how you should clean your 336 if you shoot it several times or more a year. After you have done it once, you will kick yourself for not doing it before.
Make sure the 336 is unloaded and be careful where you point it. Lay out a large cloth or bath towel to protect the gun’s finish and catch any screw or ejector spring that you will handle. The only parts that you will remove will be the screw in the lever pivot, the lever, bolt and ejector spring. That’s 4 parts plus the rifle.
Pull the hammer all the way back and open the lever about 1/3 of the way. Remove the lever screw, pull out the lever, push the bolt out of the back of the receiver while holding the hammer all the way down and remove the ejector spring (it usually falls out on its own) from the rear left hand side of the receiver.
Clean from the breech using a brush dipped in Hoppe’s #9 solvent or any good gun cleaning solvent. If you shoot a lot, get a solvent that also dissolves copper like Butch’s Bore Shine. Run a series of dry patches though the barrel until they come out clean. Wet a clean patch with good gun oil like Birchwood Casey Sheath and run through the barrel several strokes. Never use 3 in 1 oil on anything except tank treads and garden tools.
Look down barrel to make sure that it is unobstructed and clean. Pick up the rifle and hold so that left side (the ejection port is on the right side) is facing down. With your fingers or a pair of tweezers, insert the ejector spring. The open end of the spring faces the muzzle and the little tit on the side of the spring goes into a hole on the left side of the receiver. It’s easy to insert once you have done it a couple of times. On your first try, you may have to move it around a little to put the tit into the hole.
Keep the rifle left side down. Once the ejector spring is inserted, pull the hammer all the way back and hold it all the way down. Reinsert the bolt so that it holds the ejector spring in its place and is about ½ way into the rifle. Insert the lever and reattach the screw. Work the lever to ensure proper functioning. You should see the little tit on the ejector spring sticking out on the left side of the receiver. Wipe the finish on all metal parts clean and you are done.
You may want to practice inserting the bolt while holding the hammer down a couple of times just to get the feel of it before you do it with the ejector.
Once you have cleaned your 336 from the breech once, you will kick yourself for not doing it before. If you only shoot-50-75 yard deer, accuracy is not critical. At 167 yards, it is critical.
If you don’t have a manual on your 336, write Marlin and they will send you one. The manual explains this procedure in great detail and has easy to follow illustrations.




All, FWIW, here's what I do...Rifle is in a rack, held upright with muzzle lower than chamber. Remove lever, bolt and ejector, insert plastic tube (piece of semi-flexible plastic pipe) approx same diameter and a little longer than bolt. Cleaning rod, jags, brushes all go thru the tube and into the barrel. I seldom bring the patch back clear to the chamber and always push it out the muzzle. Most of the crud then goes out the muzzle end. Ideally when using a brush, one goes one way and out the muzzle, off the rod, retract the rod, replace brush and do it again. Hah, how many of us do that? Yep the brush goes back and forth in my rifles too. Doing that does bring some crud to the chamber no matter which end one cleans from. When I'm done, I clean the chamber with a pistol rod and a brush with paper toweling wrapped around it.
tas, you prob'ly read that business about inverting the rifle for Winchesters which don't come apart with any ease at all and have to be cleaned from the muzzle. Regards, Woody

some of my guns,especially the lever actions,are hard to get good and clean inside.any tips on getting a seasons worth os grime and great outdoors outta my guns?when done,what's your favorite lube?
thanks & good shooting

Go to a auto parts store and buy a can of brakleen. Takes all the grease and grime out of the metal parts. It is always best to know how to disassemble your weapon and clean it that way. P.S. Don,t smoke while using brakleen as it will light up your life

I prefer Break-Free and Rem oil for mine.. Gunjunkie

Flush-out does an excellent job & Slickem repails dust & dirt. Excellent cleaner & lub. 444
_________________________________________________

Marlin 336/1895 Disassembly/Assembly Instructions
NOTES:
--Don't assume that any two screws in this dissassembly process are identical. Make sure you keep track of where you got the screws. Assume that they are all different lengths, diameters, etc.
--Front is toward muzzle. Back is toward Buttstock.

1. Disassemble as shown in manual.

2. Remove screw from tang which holds buttstock in place. This is the screw behind the hammer on top of the buttstock--next to the serial number on the non-Cowboy models.

3. Remove buttstock, take gun off safe.

4. While holding hammer, depress the small protrusion behind the trigger (on the underside of the receiver). While protrusion is depressed, pull the trigger and allow the hammer to move SLOWLY to the full forward position. DO NOT ALLOW THE HAMMER TO SNAP FORWARD UNCONTROLLED WHILE THE GUN IS NOT FULLY ASSEMBLED.

5. Push the top of the mainspring keeper toward the right side of the rifle and out of contact with the tang of the receiver and the trigger guard plate. NOTE: The spring is still under tension, be sure to control the spring and keeper as the mainspring keeper slides out of its track.

6. Remove large screw (hammer screw) from right side plate. Press trigger slightly and remove hammer out the top of the receiver. Don't release the trigger until the hammer is all the way out of the receiver. If you let up on the trigger before you get the hammer pulled all the way out, the hammer gets in sort of a bind. If this happens, don't panic, just keep fiddling around and it will eventually pull out.

7. Remove large screw from the left sideplate. Remove large screw from the bottom front of the trigger guard plate. (THESE TWO SCREWS ARE SHORT BUT NOT THE SAME. THE LONGER ONE GOES IN THE BOTTOM FRONT OF THE TRIGGER GUARD PLATE. REMOVE THIS ONE LAST AND HAVE THE GUN UPSIDE DOWN DURING THIS OPERATION. KEEP IT THERE UNTIL YOU REINSTALL THE TRIGGER PLATE)

8. Gently tap the trigger guard plate downward out of the receiver. Remove the bolt locking block from the bottom of the receiver. NOTE: During reassembly, the forked portion of the locking block points upward, and the "hook" at the bottom of the block points toward the butt of the gun.

9. Remove the screw on the right sideplate immediately forward of the safety button. Remove shell carrier from the bottom of the receiver.

Reassemble in reverse order.

NOTE: When installing hammer, position hammer in the fully rearward (cocked) postion, press the trigger to the rear and align hammer with screw channel then insert screw.

NOTE: When installing mainspring keeper, install mainspring in its forward engagement with hammer then push mainspring keeper in from the rear until the bottom of the keeper snaps into the groove in the triggerguard plate--the spring pressure will hold it in place. The hammer must be forward for this operation.

This is the procedure to remove the forearm from a Guide Gun. Part names are from Model 1895G Owner's Manual. Submitted by Mark (tcmkj) with a reassembly note from Marko (Starrbow)

1. Unload the rifle. Visually and physically inspect the chamber to ensure that the rifle is unloaded. While the action is open ensure that you can see the magazine follower and that no rounds are in the magazine tube.

2. Place the receiver in a vice or have someone hold the rifle so that you have access to the forearm. Pad the vice to keep from marring the bluing.

3. Remove the magazine plug screw.

4. Remove both of the forearm tip tenon screws. Leave the forearm tip on the forearm.

5. The magazine tube and the forearm separate from the barrel as a unit. Hold the magazine plug firmly in place as the follower spring pushes against the plug. Separate the barrel and the magazine tube until the magazine tube is just free of the stud(about 3/8 of an inch). The forearm required some force and came loose suddenly. The forearm tip will prevent the tube and barrel from separating much further.

6. Carefully remove the magazine tube plug while keeping your hand wrapped around the magazine tube. When the plug clears the magazine tube the spring will snake out of the tube. The spring is not difficult to contain if you are prepared.

7. You should now hold the magazine tube plug and the follower spring with no pressure on the uncoiled spring. If the follower spring looped back on itself while uncoiling, carefully untangle the spring. Remove the spring from the magazine tube.

8. Carefully slide the forearm tip off of the forearm and off of the magazine tube.

9. Pull the magazine tube and the forearm forward and away from the barrel until completely separated. The forearm fits tightly to the receiver and may take a little pressure.

9. Remove the magazine tube from the forearm. Turn the tube until the bulge at the back of the tube is clear of the forearm. Pull the tube either forward or backwards out of the forearm.

10. The magazine tube follower may have remained in the receiver or it may still be in the magazine tube. In either case the follower slides out easily.

NOTE: To reinstall forearm and mag tube, put the mag tube in the forearm and at a 45degree angle insert both at the same time into the receiver, if you have a 444/45-70 , insure the bulge on the mag tube is lined up with the recess of the forearm. Do not force it--move it around a bit and things will slip into place.

Reverse the procedure to reassemble the rifle.
_________________________________________________

http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/marlin33.htm

__________________________________________________ _

Forearm Removal

You must remove the Mag tube screw and pull out on the mag tube,remove the end cap and spring and take the mag tube and forearm off together by pulling out and up on the mag tube and forearm, reverse to assemble.

Mag tube spring and follower removal:
It's simple,
On barrel band models; remove front barrel band screw and cap screw on magazine tube under the muzzle. Remove magazine cap,spring and follower,and reverse order.

On non barrel band models: remove cap screw on magazine tube under muzzle. remove forend cap screws and slide cap towards muzzle. Pull down on magazine tube at muzzle, when magazine tube clears the stud the cap will come off in your hand or accross the room, which ever comes first. Remove magazine spring and old follower and reverse order for assembly.
__________________________________________________ _

That should take care of all you asked. If you need anything else feel free to pm me.

Dave

Thank You soo much, very informative and I know it will help me a lot. I appreciate the info, thanks dave


-Nathan

Thank You soo much, very informative and I know it will help me a lot. I appreciate the info, thanks dave


-Nathan

__________________________________________________ ____

You are very welcome. Here is another great link for you as these folks are all Marlin Owners. Lots of good info and help.

Dave

http://www.marlinowners.com/board/viewforum.php?f=28&sid=049d321333315a67a02514709396d1c6

Marlins are great lever rifles!!