View Full Version : Ultimate 'modern' 94 model?
Oldebones
04-27-2004, 06:30 PM
This may be a loaded question, but I'm curious. Is there a particular 94 model made today that could be considered 'the' model to own? The one everyone wants to have?
Bones
Nathaniel
04-28-2004, 02:41 AM
Any of the models produced after 1983, (after the return of the 100% steel forged actions), and before the cross-bolt safety implementation.
The newest models with the safety on the tang are, IMO, a lot better looking, but I haven't heard enough about how the safety mechanism, (which, IMO, is useless on a traditional M94 or Marlin 336 type lever rifle, anyway), affects the trigger and the rest of the action.
william iorg
04-28-2004, 04:19 AM
I pretty much agree with Nathaniel.
I like the new color case hardned recievers. they look very nice. The new tang safety is at least less ugly.
The rebounding triggers are not good but can be worked on at home with out the need for great skill. They clean up rather well.
I have heard of quality problems but I have not seen any myself. All of our Winchesters cycle and go band when the trigger is pulled. Accuracy from the new guns exceeds that of the mid seventies guns.
If you have a few bucks and want a nice rifle the grade one 1894 Centenials are still available at reasonable cost. These 26" half round pistol gripped rifles are nice. The wood is above average, they are drilled for a tang sight and I like the pistol grip. Winchester has a new short rifle out to compete with Navy Arms. I like it's looks.
If you want a thumper the .450 Marlin M-94 looks ready to hunt right out of the box.
I must admit though that of all the M-94's I have handled in recent years the .45 Colts are probably the most fun to shoot.
I would personally try to acquire one that was post-'83 and pre-CB safety.
The new tang sight models are definitely a step back in the right direction, aesthetically. But, now they've gone and made some hole and unsightly routing in the hammer to accomodate the new safety that I could definitely do without.
As for which new model to get, it all depends on what floats your boat, personally. They have a great stable of choices currently available, I think.
Good luck.
RSY
Oldebones
04-28-2004, 08:31 AM
Slightly O.T. , but what rifle was it that John Wayne uses in movies such as Rio Bravo, and numerous others that have the large loop lever? If I decide to get a new Winchester in the future I'd be wanting to set it up similar to that style. That's why I was curious about new models. It seems there has always been a model that everyone has come to think of as the 'quintessential' rifelmans rifle.
Bones
I have a 94 Centennial. The crossbolt is easy to remove and replace and its former presence can be masked a bit with a bolt, shaped to allow the rebound hammer to function. The rifle shoots pretty well and the wood is decent, especially after one strips the polyurine off and finishes it with BLO and Skidmore's.
Alas, if you want it to shoot to its real potential, you may find you need to shorten the magazine tube and see that it is retained in the dovetail beneath the forend cap, with just a bit proruding, as on nearly every historical example I have seen when a shortened magazine was present. The inclusion of the standard hangar (which is normally near the end of the barrel) at the point where the barrel transitions from octagonal to round may cause you a lot of problems. Mine shot 4 inches at 100 yards, and not the nicest gropus either. And way high. After shortening the tube and securing it in the existing dovetail for the forend cap, the groups dropped beneath 2 inches, and the POI dropped about 6.
Of course the tube will only hold 4 rounds now, but that is not insufficient to my needs.
Oddly, the local shop has quite a collection and in looking over it, he had an 1886 Winchester in
33 wcf, whose design was exactly like these Centennials down to the patterning of the stocks, the 1/2 round barrel and the shortened magazine and tang sight.
But the magazine was retained at the forend cap, there was no additional hangar.
I would like to say something about remakes of old movies that don't do justice to the original because the makers don't understand the original, but....
I would personally try to acquire one that was post-'83 and pre-CB safety.
The new tang sight models are definitely a step back in the right direction, aesthetically. But, now they've gone and made some hole and unsightly routing in the hammer to accomodate the new safety that I could definitely do without.
As for which new model to get, it all depends on what floats your boat, personally. They have a great stable of choices currently available, I think.
Good luck.
RSY
Ganjiro
04-28-2004, 09:28 AM
Slightly O.T. , but what rifle was it that John Wayne uses in movies such as Rio Bravo, and numerous others that have the large loop lever? If I decide to get a new Winchester in the future I'd be wanting to set it up similar to that style. That's why I was curious about new models. It seems there has always been a model that everyone has come to think of as the 'quintessential' rifelmans rifle.
Bones
That would be the 1892 or 92 model Winchester. Clones are made by Rossi, and sold thru Legacy Sports, EMF, and Navy Arms. A modern 92 is also made by Miroku of Japan, and sold by Winchester, it has the rebounding hammer, and tang safety. Very high quality but you pay for it. Probley the closest to original 92's are those sold by Navy Arms meaning no safety (accept the good old halfcock), no rebounding hammer.
Yanqui
05-01-2004, 07:36 AM
Well, the only logical decision would be a Winchester Model 94 Wrangler of any caliber whether it be the 80's, 90's or present vintage. :D
Nathaniel
05-02-2004, 02:38 AM
The only thing I'd change on my circa 1986 M94 AE is the rebounding hammer. But -
I don't know if it's possible to retrofit parts or to otherwise make the hammer operate like the pre '64 models, and -
The rifle's trigger slicked up very nicely, (3 1/2 pounds clean), so I don't know if such modification, if at all possible, would be worth the effort.
This is almost reminiscent of the old adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
What do you all think? Is the elimination of the rebounding hammer possible and worth the effort?
Replacing the rebounding hammer. (http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tech_notes/archive_tech_notes.htm/42
)
william iorg
05-03-2004, 09:45 AM
I received an e-mail asking me to post a picture of the machine cut in the hammer caused by the tang safety installation as mentioned by RSY.
I thought I would include a picture of the hammer extension hole also.
It is a personal opinion but I think Winchester is way ahead of Marlin with regards to the hammer extension. Marlins extension marks up the hammer and will accelerate off over time. Winchesters extension stays put and does not mark up the hammer.
http://www.imagestation.com/mypictures/inbox/view.html?id=4174139148&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.imagestation.com%2Fpicture%2F sraid115%2Fpe3d7bf1525b27e44e46f0ffea3353a1c%2Ff8c c4f0c.jpg&caption=hammer
http://www.imagestation.com/mypictures/inbox/view.html?id=4174139154&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.imagestation.com%2Fpicture%2F sraid115%2Fp9a52dca0b6ea8f60a6b414d7e88a424e%2Ff8c c4f12.jpg&caption=hmrspr%40
malamute
05-03-2004, 05:42 PM
It is possible to replace the rebounding hammer assy. I've been told the you need a complete lower tang assy and a hammer. Cost quoted to me was about $75 and trade of other parts. It may be possible to get parts somewhere else for similar cost without trade. Or find a gun with the type parts you want, buy it, trade out parts, sell other gun. I was told they need to be the coil mainspring (hammer spring) type parts to work properly. Someone else may be able to confirm this or provide more info.
malamute,
Click on Replacing the rebounding hammer above.
malamute
05-04-2004, 06:36 AM
Dan, I tried that link and it didn't go anywhere, don't know why tho. It said "bad request" and had a blank white page.
Hum, works here, maybe if you try just the address
http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tech_notes/archive_tech_notes.htm/42<br%20/>
or go to Tech Notes and look for;
Swapping out the lower tang on a USRAC Mdl. 94 Angle Eject
By: Joseph G. Miller
Taylor
05-06-2004, 05:18 AM
What is the difference between a rebounding hammer and a non-rebounding hammer? Why is a non-rebounding hammer better?
william iorg
05-06-2004, 07:16 AM
Taylor,
The non-rebounding hammer is a bit simpler. It is somwhat easier to adjust the trigger pull on the non-rebounding hammer. For me the big difference is the rebounding hammer eliminates the half cock "safety" notch. This notch is not really a safety but that's what it has always been called. Whenever I pick up a lever action rifle I open the action to ensure it is unloaded and after closing the action attempt to move the hammer to half cock. This is so ingrained in me that after all these years of using the rebound hammer Big Bore rifles I still try to do it. I have both type rifles and that does not help things very much.
The rebounding hammer acts against itself when the trigger is pulled. The upper strut forces the hammer down until it reaches about midway in its travel. Then the lower strut begins to slow the hammer travel. This action could influence ignition…. I have never had ignition problems with a rebounding hammer rifle
The rebounding hammer is what gives the trigger its long take-up like a military trigger. You can feel the slack, creep and crunch of things under your finger as you squeeze the trigger and it is aggravating to anyone who has sampled both types of trigger. To be fair… for a hunting rifle the long take up trigger is not a big problem. I have never lost a shot to the long take-up of the trigger.
All of this goes hand in hand with the cross bolt safety. I, like most, have a strong dislike for the cross bolt safety. This not only because it is unnecessary but also a cosmetic catastrophe. The newer tang safety at least is less obtrusive. Remember that on the heavy recoiling Big Bore rifles you should never install a tang sight. So the interference problems caused by the tang safety are not an issue. For the .30-30 and lighter cartridges this could be an issue.
There are other threads on this subject in the lever action section. The pictures in this link help explain how the rebounding hammer and trigger work. To be honest, it is easier to do a general clean up to the rebounding hammer/trigger. That is to say to remove some of the gritty feeling without the use of special tools or skills is easier with the rebound hammer assembly.
http://www.time-slice.com/mohave.gambler/favorites/LeverGuns/Winchester94.htm
I'm a huge fan of the Legacy model of a few years back. 20 inch barrel in 30-30. A genuine venison getter.
I've always admired the Teddy Roosevelt Commemoritive which is similar to the discont'd model 64.
TR
Henry McCann
05-14-2004, 02:03 PM
The 64/71 models were and are the pinnacle of levergun perfection.The button, 1/2, or 2/3's magazine and a pistol grip just seem right together.
On the other hand, a straight grip just goes with a full magazine and the rifle version of the 94 with a 26" or longer barrel is close to as nice as the 64/71. :D
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