What is the best trigger pull you have ever saw on a Ruger new model blackhawk?

I would like to know what the best trigger you can have on one of these transfer bar single actions. I don't think they can be made as good as the single action pull on a smith double action revolver because the transfer bar has to move some but what is the best you have shot or heard about?

What is the least amount of creep the trigger has to have to be safe but reliable?

I'm just wanting to know what I could expect in a "best trigger job" on a Ruger Single Action.

Your experiences will be most appreciated: J Sanders

Having shot both Smiths and Rugers, and owning both triggers can be equal. Having said that I consider 3#'s to be the safe limit of a hunting handgun while triggers may be lightened safe lower than that for feild usage where gloves may be worn in colder climates this would be my minimum do to loss of feel with gloves or cold fingers. While on the sbject of gloves I find lighter is better, I prefer golf or batting gloves for maximum feel.

When I bought my SBH I had thoughts of trigger work but I did not do it because I was just learning to shoot a handgun well ,for hunting, and the extra pull was not going to hurt. I read about taking a leg off the double leg spring and thought about this but did not do that either. All the while I was shooting the heck out of this thing. I am not sure how many rounds I put through it and how much dry firing I did but it was a lot. To make a long story short, the trigger has improved. It has no creep and it has lightened up a great deal.

The point of the story is, you may want to wait and see on the trigger. If shooting it in does this much to lighten the trigger I wonder if you may end up with too light a trigger sooner than you would like if you have work done.

I have felt NM Ruger trigger pulls down to less than 2#'s. But I prefer a 3# trigger pull for all my guns.
It's doable if you know what you are doing, or have access to a gunsmith who knows what they are doing.

Joe

If it's not a target gun , I'd say anything under three pounds (I prefer four) would be unsafe in most hands. What you might look into instead of trigger work is the installation of a good trigger stop, to reduce backlash. Any gunsmith worth his salt should be able to handle this, and the price will often be less than a trigger job. If the pull weight is just too much, the addition of a trigger shoe will make quite a difference in subjective pull weight.

PJ

All mine are in the 3 lb range. One may be a bit smoother and lighter than the rest due to some extra polishing but it's not what I consider to be unsafe as it still requires a deliberate squeeze. A basic $15 spring kit alone can do great things to the factory trigger.

I'll agree with what is has been said by the others, 3lb is about as light as I'd go for any hunting handgun, other than a single shot type.

One thing to take into consideration is the lock time difference in the two handguns you mention. A Ruger SA doesn't even come close to a S&W revolver, it's almost like the hammer falls in slow motion. Over a rest it's not a big deal, but offhand it can make a substantial difference in my shooting.

The best trigger job on a Ruger SA is the best one you can afford from the best gunsmith you can find. I'd look for someone who specializes in that type of revolver, and preferably not a "mass produced" custom shop, but a craftsman who does all of his own work.

All my Ruger triggers are set at 2 pounds. This is a hold over from silhouette shooting when any safe trigger was allowed. There is no creep whatever. A 2 pound trigger is safe on a single action revolver with a transfer bar under just about all circumstances, you soon learn the feel and don't cock it until needed.

Ruger triggers are easy to adjust and it is straight forward honing work. I purchased a set of jigs and tools from Brownells years ago that allowed me to set the pull where I wanted it. Now they sell complete hammer, trigger and spring replacements CNC machined to drop right in. There is also a neat little Gate Detent Spring Clamp that releases spring tension from the pins for easy R&R. You can also buy a Bisley conversion grip, trigger and hammer kit. It ain't rocket science and something for the self-reliant to consider learning to do themselves. If you screw up, replacement parts are listed. If you can swap out implements on the old John Deere, this will be a snap.

axlenut

Rather than taking a leg off the spring, i've always taken my trigger spring and laid it on a table with the coil on top and the "points" down. I then bend the spring so the "points" are about 5/16" off the table, and that's alwaysl reduced the trigger pull to the three-four pound range.