I have a Tasco Target/Varmint 6-24x42mm scope with an adjustable objective. I realize this isn't the best scope in the world, but I'm experiencing some parallax deflection with it at all distances, and am wondering if it's the scope or if it's me.

First, let me say that I've peeked through Leupolds and Weavers, and can't say that I've ever experienced a scope that was 100% parallax free to me as I understand it -- even when a salesdroid was trying to show me how good the parallax adjustment worked.

To complicate things, with my Tasco, the adjustable objective doesn't work quite as I'd expect. The owner's manual does indicate that the point of the adjustment is to correct for parallax, but it really appears to act more of a focus adjustment. If I set the scope so I have a clear picture of the bullseye on a 50 yard target, then aim at a 100 yard target, I have to adjust the objective to get a clear picture of the bull.

When I have a clear picture of the bull, then move my head around, the crosshairs move on the target. Not a lot, but at least a MOA or two. It's my understanding that if the scope is correctly compensated for parallax the crosshairs shouldn't move at all.

Can anyone tell me if I'm being too picky about them amount of parallax deflection I'm seeing, or if I'm expecting too much out of this scope? Will any scope be completely free of apparent movement?

Thanks in advance,

-- Sam

Unless you go to a very high dollar scope, expect to have a slight amount of parallax in any scope - the problem is to what degree.

Yes, adjusted for a clear, sharp view at 50 yds a target at 100 yds will appear a little fuzzy until you adjust the parallax. From there on out, less and less adjustment is needed.

Focus is related to parallax.

Set the parallax ring at a known distance, then focus the eye piece.

You should be able to get it down to an inconsequential level.

Ignore the little yardage markers set arround the objective lens...find they are at best an esitmation. Focus as you have been to get the occular/corshair razor sharp. Then adjust the objective to your new yardage and move your head arround. If the cross hair moves off the aim point, readjust the objective even if the little numbers claim you are where you should be.

Hi Guys,

When I adjust for a parallax free sight I adjust untill the wobble is at the least amount and not for the best focus of the cross hairs.

Thats how I was shown how to do it years ago and has worked the best for me


Riflemen10x

It may not be possible to achieve both perfectly, depending on one's eyesight. So - some compromise between parallax and focus may be necessary.