I excerpted the following text from a previous thread - CARE TO SHARE YOUR BEST HANDLOADING SECRETS - I'm hoping for comments/experience with this.

Thanks

Originally Posted by DAVID WHITE
One thing that I do has to do with setting up the dies. You always read to "tighten your die down against the shell holder" but I have found that to NEVER be the case! If you have to tighten the die down against the shell holder, then you need to take it to a machine shop or send it to me and let me shorten it for you...

When setting up for sizing, using dies in a press, I always use the new RCBS die locking rings that are black with a brass set screw in them. I first screw the die into the press where I want it and then screw the lock ring down against the press and then back it off 1/2 to 1 full revolution until that brass set screw is lined up with an index mark on my press, which in my case is one of the points of the the press insert that is on my RCBS BIG MAX press. So in setting up the sizing die, I just screw it in the press all the way and then back it out a partial turn until the die aligns with it's preset index mark...

What this does is allow the die to "float" in the press and allows the case to enter the die without being forced off center like it could if it were locked into the press and with those big 7/8X14 threads on the dies and press, it would be very easily to get things out of alignment. With the die and index mark easily visible on the front of the press, you always have your eye on them while loading and if the die shifts one way or another, just reach up and adjust it as needed. It takes no more time to set up this way but I have seen it have tremendous results in the accuracy department by having the dies set to "float" rather than having them locked down tight against the press....

As far as case prep goes, the biggest accuracy improvement has always came from deburring the internal flash hole....

God Bless,

DAVID
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Hello David and group,

David, thanks for the input.

Lots of good info here but the "floating die" stuff seems to be the most radical departure from conventional wisdom on reloading. I'm not saying it doesn't sound plausable and I will probably give it a try but I would like to hear what others have to say.

I have a Sauer 202 7mm Rem Mag with a VERY tight chamber and when I use my FL resizer on new brass, if I don't screw it down until it just kisses the shell holder the cases are too long and won't chamber properly. I don't float the die and I definately have to screw it in to take advantage of the FL resizing.

In regards to accuracy, why does floating the die work?

Maybe floating the die could allow the cases to remain the length of your chamber, kind of like using fire formed brass but only halfway?

The Forster Bonanza Co-Ax press is set up where the dies are floated unless you tighten down on a ball detent that engages the die ring. Otherwise, the dies are slipped into a cut in the press that accepts the die rings.

The shell holder is a spring loaded collet that opens on the upstroke to release it's hold on the casing, then clamps back on the down stroke.

Between them, the case is allowed to seek it's own alignment of the holder/die and is supposed to provide more precise centering than a standard press that may have possible misalignment between the holder the rigid die receptacle.

Works pretty good for me - especially when bullet seating.

Currently use a slight variation of "floating die". Screw the die down in as far as ya want it, don't tighten lock ring. Force case up into die for desired resizing wanted, then lock down the die. Can do same for expander button, by not tighteneing it down untill it is midway up through case neck. Believe either floating method produces more accuarte loads.

Can also leave the expander button slightly floating, although be aware of letting it float too much because of depriming.

Same method is used on pistol case sizing, and belling the case mouth.

Sounds like with his sizing die backed out that far from the shell holder, it is mostly just resizing the neck. That alone can contribute to better accuracy.

I load for a bunch of calibers and often use a variation of "floating" the dies for some and other times take the die down until it touches the shellholder. The answer for me is to size the cases just enough so they work easily into the chamber with only a slight bit of resistance. All the best...
Gil

There must be a bit of "play" or clearance in the threads or you could never screw the die in or out. When you lock the die down, it will be canted an imperceptable nano minute of angle or "just a tad", in layman terms. Floating works as long as the face of the shell holder is perfectly perpendicular to the centerline of your ram and the base of your case is perfectly perpendicular to the centerline of the case, itself. Be warned that the die will move out of adjustment if not locked down or indexed in some manner.

I float the crimping die when roll crimping revolver rounds as a seperate operation. I actually do this by "feel" as some cases area bit longer or shorter than others or thicker or thinner at the mouth. When I feel more resistance, I back the die off a quarter turn.....less resistance, I screw it in a bit.