I was recently told that the saveges 110 and 116 both had barrels that were very easy to change and could be changed to another Cal. very easy.

Example - buying a 110/116 in 300 Win Mag, you could buy a barrel in 264 mag, 7mm mag, or 458 mag and easily change to the other Cal. by changing the barrel and maybe needing to change the magazine follower.

Can any1 shed some light on this?
Has any1 done this?
Is it that easy?
Would you just need to change the follower or have the feed lips also changed?

Michael Grace

If you stay within the same family of cartridges, as you indicate, it is easily done. Savage sells a kit along with the replacement barrels that give you everything you need. Do a Google search for their website and look up the info you need.

Interesting question.

I have a Sauer 202. It's called a modular gun and I have two barrels for it, 7mm Rem Mag and 300 Win Mag. The action is called a magnum action (it's really a long action) and I can buy other barrels for it (375 H&H, 9.3X64, 6.5X64 to name a few). I like the versitility of the modular gun because I only have to purchase the action, stock, magazines, and scope one time. IMO that allows for better value, especially with the scope. I was able to purchase a pricey Zeiss scope and rationalize the expenditure by not having to buy additional scopes.

The gun is built to very tight tolerances and changing barrels is a matter of removing the fore-end and 3 screws. It is highly accurate and it holds pretty true to point of aim switching between barrels, I get as much or more deviation as shooting different loads in the same caliber. I will eventually pick up a 375 H&H barrel for it.

Sig Arms also sells the Blazer line of modular rifles, those are a little rich for my wallet, and from what I have seen, they are no more accurate than my 202. I consistently hit bottle caps at 200 yards with both calibers. Not bad for a light weight sporter.

Here's a picture. I have the Supreme Magnum flavor.

http://img23.photobucket.com/albums/v69/GuideGun/Sauer_202.jpg

This was with the 7mm Rem Mag barrel. The 300 Win Mag is not as bottle cap friendly, at least not with plastic tip bullets. The 202 sells new for around $1200. They're not inexpensive but as the saying goes, you get what you pay for. The regular action flavor handles most of the popular cartridges (25-06, 30-06, 270 Win, 22-250, etc). If it's in your budget I highly recommend it.

These are cool to carry around in your pocket and show your friends.

http://img23.photobucket.com/albums/v69/GuideGun/Backdrop.jpg

I am also interested in changing barrels on a savage, I have a 110E in 243 and i would love to change to 270, but if i have to i will go with 7mm-08. Didn't savage used to use a Long Action action for all their bolt guns, How can i tell if my action can handle the LA cartridge? i know a 270 round will fit in the opening of the action but it won;t fit in the magazine.

One of the local gun shops has a used 116 in 300 Win Mag, it is stainless steel with a synthetic stock, has scope base installed, no scope, muzzle brake installed, in very nice shape, no scratches, etc.

He is asking $325.00 do you think it's worth that much?


Is there any place online that lists the bluebook values of guns? If so can some1 list the URL?

Michael Grace

I have never done it but I did read an article about it. The guy had a Savage in 243 but wanted to do an article on the 358 so he bought a barrell, a barrell wrench, and a set of go/no-go gauges. He took the 243 barrell off put the 358 barrell on installed the go gauge, slid the barrell down till it just touched, back it off a bit, tightened the barrell nut down, made sure the no-go gauge would not allow the bolt to close and went to the range. He was really suprised how easy it was and how accurate the 358 shot. Sounds pretty neat but when you think about it what excuse would you use to buy another rifle, instead of just a new barrell. Nope don't think I'm gonna let the wife in on this.

I am kinda thinking about a gun with 2 or 3 barrels in a fitted case so you can have both a light and heavy Cal to take along with out having to take 2 or 3 rifles and have all the extra weight.

Michael Grace

MGRACE,

I have 3 Savage bolt rifles. All are very accurate right out of the box. I think they are excellent rifles. One of the three had a terrible trigger which I switched out, the others had okay triggers from the factory. MidwayUSA sells kits to swap rifle barrels on Savage bolt actions. The kit includes a barrel, barrel wrench, and headspace gauges. You'll also need to buy a barrel vise (about $40, if I remember correctly). They also sell just the barrel, as do several other barrel companies. It takes about 1/2 hour to 45 min to change a barrel the first time. Check out savageshooters.com for lots more info on the barrel swap.
That sounds like a pretty good price for the rifle you mentioned. The muzzle brake is going to cause it to be extremely loud when you shoot it, though. As mentioned before, because the rifle you're looking at is a belted magnum, you may have to change out the bolt head if you swap barrels to a non-belted magnum family of cartridges. This is easily done and bolt heads are not expensive.

I should have mentioned that none of my Savages have the new AccuTrigger. The new trigger is awesome and you'll never have to worry about a funky trigger with one of them.

I am already going to get a Savage 110E, Cal 270 Win, nice wood stock, 3-9X40 scope, gun case, cleaning kit and a part box of ammo from a friend that can no longer go hunting, so I will have one based on the 30-06 size case head, I am going to get it for $300.00 for everything, so was just kinda wondering if the gun shop price was a bit high for just the rifle, even tho it does have the muzzle brake.

Michael Grace

I would say that 325 isn't a bad deal at all, however, 300 is a great deal!
SO, if you have a 110E in .270, i should be able to change my 110E from 243 to 270

How do you tell if your gun has the AccuTrigger?
Is there a date or serial number that everything after that is the AccuTrigger?

jb12string, did you ever change your 110E from 243 to 270?


Michael Grace

The Accu-trigger has a thin blade installed in the trigger. A standard trigger does not have this blade. Very readily visually apparent.

never got it changed, wouldn't have worked anyway, the 270's wouldn't fit, ended up with a stevens 200 in 270 paid 199 for it and tricked it out with a new stock and trigger

This is an article from Brownell's Tech notes on how it is done. Hope this helps.

Rebarreling Your Savage Rifle
By Mark Hudson

This month we’re going to show you how to re-barrel a Savage Model 110 bolt action rifle; one of the easier rifles to re-barrel. The techniques apply to the entire 110 series. All you need is a Barrel Vise (available with either steel or aluminum bushings) with the appropriate bushing for the barrel diameter that you are removing, and a Barrel Nut Wrench. By the way, this wrench works on both the old, round notch and new, square notch barrel nuts.

On the average bolt rifle, you establish correct headspace by lathe-turning the shoulder on the barrel. However, with the Savage, all you have to do is remove the firing pin and ejector from the bolt, insert a GO Headspace Gauge into the chamber, screw the barrel into the receiver until the gauge bumps up tight against the bolt face, tighten the barrel lock nut and you have a barrel that is set up to minimum headspace. Let’s go through the steps, one by one.

First, completely disassemble the rifle, remove the bolt from the action, remove the stock, and, if you have a scope, remove it, too. You can leave the bases on; they shouldn’t get in the way. Completely disassemble the bolt; make sure you remember how it came apart so you can reassemble it later.

Here’s a quick rundown on how to take the bolt apart. Start by removing the rear bolt plug. Depending on the age of your rifle, it will be a large, standard screw slot, on later models it will be an Allen head. Remove the bolt handle, remove the baffle assembly, pull out the cocking piece pin, and remove the cocking piece sleeve followed by the firing pin assembly. Now, pull the bolt head off the front of the bolt. Remember how the washer comes off so you can replace it the same way. Next, remove the front baffle. Remove the ejector so when you are setting your headspace you don’t feel the tension that it adds against the gauge.

You’re now ready to remove your old barrel. Slide the Barrel Nut Wrench down the barrel and onto the barrel nut. Clamp the barrel in your barrel vise and loosen the barrel nut with the barrel nut wrench. If your gun is old or rusted you may want to put some Kroil on the joint at the receiver and the joint between the barrel and barrel nut.

Reassemble your bolt without the firing pin or the ejector installed. Slip the headspace gauge into the bolt face and let the extractor hold it in place. Slide the bolt into the receiver and let the bolt handle fall into the loaded position. Screw the barrel nut all the way onto the barrel, followed by the recoil lug.

Next, start the barrel into the receiver and tighten it down until it just “bumps” against the gauge. Check the recoil lug to make sure it’s locating protrusion is in the recess in the action. Work the bolt handle. You should feel a little resistance at the very bottom of the bolt stroke. If the bolt is tight all the way, unscrew the barrel slightly. If there isn’t any resistance at the bottom of the stroke, tighten the barrel a whisker. When you get that slight resistance, your headspace is correctly set at the minimum.

Clamp the barrel back in the barrel vise. Tighten the barrel nut against your lug and receiver. Use a pretty fair amount of force turning the nut. Remember, you are bringing together four different pieces of steel. I like to snug it tight by hand, then whack it a good one with a rawhide mallet to put the final "oomph" on it.

Double check the headspace by making sure the bolt will close on the go gauge, this time without resistance. Put a piece of .001” or .002” shim stock between the bolt face and headspace gauge and again attempt to close the bolt. You should feel resistance or it may not close at all. That tells you that all is well in the headspace department.

After you re-assemble the bolt with all the parts, reassemble the rifle and scope, you’re ready to head to the range with the rifle you just re-barreled yourself.

Flashole,
That shot is not centered, what you bragging about! ;)

Flashole,
That shot is not centered, what you bragging about! ;)

The winds were pretty tricky that day....

The sun was in my eyes....

A bug bit me on the neck just as I was squeezing off the shot...

I hick-upped....

My shorts were too tight....

Any of these excuses apply here. I thought it was a pretty decent shot considering the guy who was flipping them in the air was trying to make it difficult by tossing a handful of dirt up with it.:D