I bought a Rem 710 in .30-06 last night. This is my first deer rifle. I'm stepping up from using my 870 shotgun since I started hunting 2 seasons ago.

Since I'm a newbie to the rifle world, I was looking for recommendations on factory loads for whitetails. I picked up a box of Rem 150gr PSP core-lokt to try out. I'll probably try Federal as my neighbor says his rifle has done well with that. May eventually try some of the premium factory loads, but that will probably be down the road. For now, my situation is hunting in woods and/or cotton/corn fields with shots under 250 yards.

Also, I'm curious about different bullet weights and what benefits or uses, in general, they serve. So many @$#@% choices out there it's hard for a newbie to know where to start.

As a 'bullet guy' who grew in a 'ball' family, I'm the first generation to start hunting (outside of my grandfathers hunting squirrels 30 or 40 years ago), so almost all my hunting knowledge so far has come from my own reading and from message boards such as this.

Guess I got long-winded there, but thanks for any info!!

I would suggest to match the bullet and load to your quarry and type of hunting that you will be doing. For instance, if you are hunting the river bottoms or fields for deer and/or coyotes, I don't think the "Premium" bullets are really required, unless they shoot significantly better than standard factory loads.

The 150 grain 30-06 loads are fine deer loads at the range you are considering, as are the 165 grain loads. I wouldn't go up to the 180's unless the 150's or 165's don't shoot well.

Premium bullets are made for pushing the envelope or tackling large game (ie Elk, Moose, Bear, etc...). They are also a good idea when velocities are running on the upper end of the bullet's design. Each bullet is designed to perform at a range of velocities. Push them too slow and they may fail to expand. Pushed faster than they are designed when encountering an animal and they may over-expand (or come apart completely) and fail to penetrate. Premium bullets typically will have a thicker jacket, some type of expansion barrier, and a bonded core. This allows to the bullet to expand and hold together when encountering heavy bone, muscle and hide while continuing to penetrate. These attributes aren't really needed when the bullet is pushed at 30-06 velocities on game the size of whitetailed deer.

So, if you are shooting a 30-06 at 0 to 250 yards at deer, you shouldn't encounter any performance problems from bullets like Winchester's PowerPoints, or Remington Core-Lokts, etc.... If you were shooting a 300 RUM or something with similar velocity, a premium bullet might be a good idea.

By the way, I found that a lot of the conventional bullets are extremely accurate when you find the right load.

If you are going to just use factory ammunition, get a box of each, and see which your rifle prefers. The 150 grain should do for most of your needs. Most of the Auto loaders were designed around the 150 grain loads, and have done quite well for everything being hunted with them, so your bolt action will do as well. When Handloading, I prefer the 165 grain loads, but for general all around use the 150 grain loads are up to the job unless going for Elk sized game than I like 180 grain loads. Good sights, and lots of practice is the best answer no matter what you are shooting.

Lee L.

Save your brass.........

Thanks for the info. Yep, I plan to save all my brass. Probably find a buddy with reloading equipment to help do it at some point in the future.

Also, how critical is a rest when determining which ammo works best? I don't have any type of rest that holds a rifle both on the front and rear. Do I need to buy one or find one to borrow to really know what's working best? Or will just using some carpet wrapped around some 2x4's to steady the front do...or some sand in an old sock?

I belong to a gun club and they've got a 100-yard range as well as a 200-600 yard range. I would guess that a rest gets more critical/useful the longer the shot.

Some form of rest is critical. I use an outer's on the front of the rifle, and have two sections of levi's legs that are sewn up and filled with sand for the rear (each is about 12" long). I put one on top of the other, and squeeze the bottom bag with my left hand until i have the elevation i want. I generally don't touch the rifle with my left hand while sighting-in, and its never caused me problems, although i use a 2" high at 100 yd zero. Others will have their own way of resting a rifle, choose the way or portions of the ways that will work best for you. BTW, i was never able to get a rifle vise to work for me........

150s are fine for deer, if they shoot well. Good luck to you!

I'd suggest sighting in for 200 yards, if you don't have access to a range of that distance, go 2" high at 100 yards.

Good to ask ... better to practice and observe and absorb all you can from guys out there with your type setup. I've also learned a lot from magazines about practicing the variety of shots you'll need to prepare for when hunting deer. Think... what happens when you find yourself 15 or 20 yds from a posed buck, after you're all sighted in at 200 yds??? Ammo: buy a decent hunting round (made to expand on DEER) I'd recommend starting with the cheapest out there, since you should go through quite a bit of it shooting and sighting in. Thus, if that type shoots decent groups, don't monkey with other loads 'til next year. I prefer Winchester over Rem and have ever since I was, like you out hunting with slugs. I also prefer customer service responses I've gotten from the company v. Remington's. So for deer, you're all set if you can hit a paper plate from a variety of positions from 25 or 30 to 100 yds. which will put you comfortably in the vitals. Oh, and for that rest for the 200+ shots... you'll need a backpack to shoot off when hunting, so pick the one you'll use this season and get shots off at the range with that too. Ps: an ex-military friend of mine showed me how to steady from a rest ... hold either the forend or the barrel itself down, and when you squeeze off, you'll get far less barrel jump. Wear a recoil pad too if you can... I like mine from Cabelas for this size calibre.

I've also been told that I shouldn't shoot more than 3 shots in relatively quick succession because the barrel gets hot and will affect how the shots group. Do you guys recommend this and, if so, how long should I wait between shots? I did notice Saturday that a guy with a setup including a chronograph was waiting a minute or 2 between shots. (He ended up quite perturbed because he used 2 different lots of the same powder and got 100 fps difference.)

I've also been told that I shouldn't shoot more than 3 shots in relatively quick succession because the barrel gets hot and will affect how the shots group. Do you guys recommend this and, if so, how long should I wait between shots? I did notice Saturday that a guy with a setup including a chronograph was waiting a minute or 2 between shots. (He ended up quite perturbed because he used 2 different lots of the same powder and got 100 fps difference.)

I shoot a group of 5 usually, thats how many my guns hold, then I wait a while, walk around, pick up brass, etc. My gun usually gets hot after about 10 rounds (the second group of 5) that is when I usually walk down check the targets etc. If I am shooting more than one gun I will swap now also.

Oh I shoot an A-bolt Medallion in a .270win and sometimes a 700ADL youth in a .243.

Three shot groups are best, with a cool-off between groups, for sporter weight barrels. I often shoot more, particularly if I'm chronographing. If you can't hold the barrel with your bare hand, it's too hot. It depends on whether it's 100°F or 20°F too.

Two things to check. Fire 5-10 shots fairly fast, say 30 seconds apart and see if the point of impact is moving. (The barrel walks the shots.) Some barrels, if clean or cold, will throw the first shot well away from the rest. There's not much you can do for a cold barrel problem, except to sight in for the first shot. Target shooters pop off some sighters, but hunters seldom have that luxury. A 2 patch cleaning often works for a barrel that throws the first shot from a perfectly clean barrel off. One patch wet with Hoppes and followed with a dry patch will rust-proof a barrel stored under normal conditions, but often lets the first shot go into the group.

One powder that was very popular with the benchrest crowd has lost favour due to batch to batch variations. It was the best powder I ever used in my .222, but the last can is 90 fps slower, and I'm back to the drawing board.

Bye
Jack

Load your rifle single-shot style and take plenty of time between shots for either a 3 or 5 shot group. I always shoot 5 shot groups when searching for the most accurate load. As stated, put you hand on the barrel between shots and judge when the barrel is too warm to continue without cooling. If you can clamp it in your hand and hold on without discomfort, it is cool enough to continue.

Like others, my range routine usually entails several firearms that can be rotated around to allow cooling between strings. Also, when using a chronograph I tend to mark readings down in a book which takes extra time. Could use the built-in printer, but this forces me to take the time.

One thing of importance - always open the bolt and extract the fired casing between shots. This allows a little ventilation and aids greaty in the cooling process. Here in the high heat country, I generally take a length of small plastic hose or surgical rubber tubing along and insert into the chamber to blow through and force some of the residual heat out of the bore.

If you can afford to do it, just buy the reloading equipment and do it yourself now. it will teach you so much about the rifle behaves with different velocites/ bullet weights. in addition to that, you will no doubt shoot more and your shooting will improve (practice makes proficient). also, you have a much better selection of bullets available to you when you load.