I bought a used Remington 870 barrel with choke tube. It looks like the guy spent lots more time siting in the boat than cleaning. I can't get the choke out even after soaking in solvent,extra downward pressure on choke wrench,and heating the barell hopeing it would expand. Now i'm thinking that perhaps steel shot was used and the choke is peened in place. I don't have a lath, more's the pity, but good assortment of common tools. I would very much appreciate some advice on what's next from someone whose already been there..Thanks fellas..sf340

More than likely , rusted in place, even if you get it out the barrel threads may be corroded to the point it won't accept other chokes. You may be S.O.L. unfortunately

I bought a used Remington 870 barrel with choke tube. It looks like the guy spent lots more time siting in the boat than cleaning. I can't get the choke out even after soaking in solvent,extra downward pressure on choke wrench,and heating the barell hopeing it would expand. Now i'm thinking that perhaps steel shot was used and the choke is peened in place. I don't have a lath, more's the pity, but good assortment of common tools. I would very much appreciate some advice on what's next from someone whose already been there..Thanks fellas..sf340

Do it all gain...soak it in penetarting oil, heat it, soak it again, and set it aside for a couple of DAYS...then apply more oil, more heat, and TAP all around the choke with a non-destructive tool (brass hammer is good...lead hammer is good...lead bar will work...wooden hammer handle will work). Not tapping hard enough to dent (and be carefull, heated metal dents easily) but to set up vibrations to help loosen the choke. Try a quick "snaP action with the wrench.

IF that doesn't get it out, may just be a lost cause. In that case, will get ugly with it.

Do think it's rusted in place, but it amy be saveable.

Ribbonstone gives a valid procedure and if I might expand on that, without stepping on toes, try tapping on the barrel as you turn the choke wrench. Penetrating oil, such as WD-40, is notorios for getting under blueing and causeing it to lift, after the final application of p-oil wipe the blued surfaces with bore solvent thoroughly and then wipe on a coat of gun oil.

I have seen this problem several times and my recommendation would be to take it to a competent gunsmith. He may be able to get the tube out and clean up the threads. All the best...
Gil

as i was going through Brownell's #57 i noticed that they make a stuck choke removal tool... an expandable arbor that is knurled with a T handle... turn the screw to expand and it digs into the choke... might eb worth a try...

Generally to get truly tight threads loose you have to heat em almost red hot to get expansion great enough to seperate the threads... heat the barrel from the outside... not the choke tube... you want the barrel to grow more than the choke.

ON another note... you MAY try to aquire some dry ice, slip it into the choke tube and get her cold, you may be able to suck enough heat from the choke before the barrel and loosen the thread fit, get some penetrating oil in there and turn it out... less destructive than heating...

if you don't clean and remove the chokes and such often you should always lubricate threads with a lubricant that will handle elevated temperatures ...

Jamie

Where is Simmonsguns when you need him? :p

Took a look in Brownell's and that stuck chocke remover seems like a good idea if the other hints don't get it out. ANd once you do get the choke tube out, consider how it got stuck in the first place and try one of the choke tube compounds (or try the local auto parts). May also consider choke tubes that have a good section outside the barrel...if worse comes to worse, having a "handle" sticking out may be a good idea.

May be more cost effective to let a gunsmith take out that one tube... on a guess, he'll be using a tool much like the one in Brownell's.

If I may offer a suggestion. When you try heating it up, only heat 1/3 of the tube. Heating the whole way around of a ring also expands the metal inward to tighten on whatever is inside of it. By heating only 1/3 it opens it up like a c-clip. P-B blaster and lots of soft tapping ,as previously mentioned, will convince most rust to give up.

here i am to ruine your your day,simmons guns is going to say.(i am on alot of pain med today,spelling might be off).if it won't come out and it has to come out,heat and an e-z out will work.this is the last resort,it will distroy the tube.if it is however a choke that you use,and it is not messed up or at least still shootable,i would be apt to leave it alone.it might be easier to cut it off and have new tubes installed.good luck,if i can help,let me know.

If it is rusted in place, try Kroil. I am not kidding, it is the best penetrating oil I have seen, bar none. I have done some restoring of antique tractors. EVERYONE who does antique tractors uses Kroil, and that is no exaggeration.

It penetrates deeply and quickly, and loosens rust such that it must be seen to be believed. There's no phosphoric acid, so it won't harm blueing.

Go to www.kanolaboratories.com

Also, I think Brownell's might have it.

kroil is all i use for rust problems,they also have a silicone type,but the original is best.