I know that .22 rimfire accuracy is anything but a Science, but Santa has a line on a used .22lr barrel w/h a 2x Leupold scope. I just was wondering AROUND what sort of groups can I expect to see from te non match barrel?

For example: How does its accuracy compare to a Ruger MKll?

what kind of ammo are you using?
Is the barrel shot out?
what condition is the frame in?


And lastly...depens alot on the shooter.
I know I can make a REAL GOOD barrel look REAL BAD. :) lol

Darrell

I wiil be using the ammo that is most accurate. I understand how picky the .22 rimfire is with the ammo type, and even lot#. I havent shot it yet, so I dont know what ammo works the best out of it.


No the barrel isnt shot out, it is like new, even a perfect crown. Ive never even heard of a .22 rimfire barrel shooting out, the .22 rim just doesnt have high PSI.


The frame is a new G2.


Lets say hypotheticaly that Im a robot shooting in a vacume.





Does anyone have any experience with a T/C .22lr barrel that isnt a "match"?

Once you find the brand that barrel likes you should be able to shoot MOA if YOU are capable of that kind of accuracy. I have seen so many “inaccurate” handguns shoot single hole groups at 25 yards in the right hands that IMHO it is pretty common. As far as being shot out, not likely. I have personal knowledge of quite a few 22lr firearms that have in the 100S’K rounds and they are still bright and have sharp lands. This is not to say that you won’t find one that has been really mucked up with a cleaning rod. Before you write it off as being a dud give it to someone who you consider a better than average handgun shooter. Ask them to shoot it and give you an honest evaluation. Don’t taint that by telling them you think it is a dud just ask for a shoot test and supply them with the ammo. You may be doublly surprised

What makes a barrel accuate is in the inside, not the outside shape...and some of the "match" barrels are at best just fat. .22's just don't rpoduce the heat to require a fat barrel for those reasons, and their vibrations are not enough to require a truely thick barrel on that basis either.

IDealy there is a difference in chambering between the two, with the sporter having a slightlky looser and much longer chamber...the match would have a tighter and shorter chamber. Also idealy, the match barrel would be a bit better rifled and polished inside.

T/c didn't put a real tight match chamber in their match barrels...after all, only finger pressure loads them and if the case were to hang up enough to strike the breech when snapped closed, could fire by the act of closing. They used a chambering about like the ones used on semi-auto barrels..still "match" but of a slightly longer type than used on some of the bolt guns.
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To get any real big advantage out of a serious match barrel, need to feed it serious match ammo. Are lots of people on the web-sites caliming fantastic groups from cheap ammo...but you'll also see them claiming to have been at the bench next to Elvis.

I wish I could test fire it, the barrel/scope is on consingment at my gundealers. Then agein It wont kill me to ask eather, I do know the one of the clirks.

Are lots of people on the web-sites caliming fantastic groups from cheap ammo...but you'll also see them claiming to have been at the bench next to Elvis. Lol...aint that the truth.

Was addicted to the 10" octogon barrels...and I have to be careful not to get addicted again. The .22versions shot just as well as the later fat barrels...and just as well as the big long super fat barrels. The weight of that longer tube just wasn't a big help in .22LR...what counts is on the inside of the barrel in .22LR, not the outside.
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Weight did help in the big centerfires. Had an old 44mag. octogon, old enough that it ran on the original type fore end attachemnt. This was more like a shotgun attachment, was a spring latch on a "ball" stud screwed into the barrel...that's how they first made them.

Shooting some of the old Norma 240gr. loads, my feet got tired...after each shot, would have to walk down range 15-20 yards to pick up the fore ened. Recoil was notable.
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Like you, took a chance on a .22mag. barrel with an old 2.5 Bushnell Phantom in place. Horrible adjustments on those old scopes, sighting in was a bit like playing ping-pong (adjust ents seemed to take awahile to take effect, so it would drift a bit over the first 4 or 5 rounds fired...so ended up going past...then going past the other way).

Skinny 10" octogon, but that barrel was one of those rare factroy barels that are absoultly outstanding. Won $50 at the range when the guy next to me was so frustrated, he set out 5 empty 12ga. shells on top of the railroad tie base rail at 100yards, and bet me $10 per shot for 5 shots. Figured I could doa bit better than break even. We each laid out 5 $10 bills...if I missed, he'd take one of mine, when I hit I'd take one of his. Now at this range, with that scope, you were "on" when the 12ga. shell dissappeared behind the crosshair intersection...would just blot it out. 5 shots later I had 10 bills, he had none.

Horrible adjustments on those old scopes, sighting in was a bit like playing ping-pong (adjust ents seemed to take awahile to take effect, so it would drift a bit over the first 4 or 5 rounds fired...so ended up going past...then going past the other way).
I see alot of oldtimers tap the adustment knobs with something hard, they guess the recoil is what "settles down" the cross hairs. So, tapping the knobs sorta simulates a few shots being fired.
I dont have any experience with old scopes myself. My famly is "old school" and once belived that scopes were unrelyable. Then I bought a Veri-x III, and the old wisdom went out the window.

Its not settling the crosshairs down, instead they (and I do it too...even on Vari-X III scopes) are making sure that the tension springs inside the scope tube are seated after adjustment. Just two or three light taps with a quarter are fine. Even if it don't work, it won't harm the scope.

Wolf is probably one of the better manufacturers of match 22 lr ammo. But be sure to get the German stuff. Remington Eley is also supposed to be good as well as the Winchester match ammo...but I have only tried the Wolf in a Mark II and it was very impressive accuracy on a red dot scope at 50 yards.


Darrell

Its not settling the crosshairs down, instead they (and I do it too...even on Vari-X III scopes) are making sure that the tension springs inside the scope tube are seated after adjustment. Just two or three light taps with a quarter are fine. Even if it don't work, it won't harm the scope.

Wolf is probably one of the better manufacturers of match 22 lr ammo. But be sure to get the German stuff. Remington Eley is also supposed to be good as well as the Winchester match ammo...but I have only tried the Wolf in a Mark II and it was very impressive accuracy on a red dot scope at 50 yards.


Darrell

Now that taping does work on almost all scopes...those Bushnells were the almost. Tapping it didn't seem to help, the adjustemnt was still sluggish...makes me think that whatever they used for lube was gumming and had become super-thick....would move, but took a number of shots to get full adjustment. Worked a lot better when you over adjust and come back. To get 2 "Clicks" change, put in 10 and come back 8.

Not going to be a problem with the 2X Leo. that is on that barrel...even the really old ones don't seem to suffer from adjustment problems.

I never had any problem with the tention springs on any of my scopes (wich I have many of).
I have done alot of varmint hunting, I figure it would be a real pain if the adjustments didnt work properly. If I did have this problem It would be sent back for warenty work ASAP.

Cookiemonster,
If I were you I would send my Veri-X III back to Leupold.
My MKII likes CCI standard the best, but only Velocetators, and SGB's shoot poorly. Actualy My MKII is realy a old "standard". Almost 30 years old, and it still shoots great.