I'm new to this board and I'm hoping you nice folks can give me some advice before I go a drop a wad on a gunsmith. I purchased a replica 2nd Model Dragoon yesterday, and without any encouragment it decided to fall apart on me. Like all of the percussion cap revolvers that I've seen, there are two positions for the hammer; a full-cock and a half-cock. Well my problem is that today my pistol, in the half-cocked position, the pistol wasn't "ratcheting," or whatever the term is. The cylinder spins freely now. Upon futher investigation I saw that a little piece of metal, which I determined to be a spring, had fallen out of it somehow. Now normally if someone told me that a component just fell out I'd tell them that they were full of it, but that's really what happened. Simply put, what I'd like to do is put it back and make it work. If anyone has any ideas or references I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

Give me a little more help.

Does the cylinder rotate and lock into postion when you cock the gun?...or does it fail to rotate at all...or does it rotate and then not lock into position at full cock?

IF it does rotate and lock, will it do it consistantly when the gun is pointed UP or only when the gun is pointed DOWN?

Does the cylinder rotate freely when the hammer is at 1/2 cock?


Aren't but three real action springs...the main spring is pretty big and not likely to fall out as it's captured by the grips. There is a split fingered spring, one leg that powers the trigger and one that powers the bolt (the part that pops un and out of the frame to lock into the notches in the cylinder to lock up rotation).

There is also a spring on the back of the hand...that's the part that contacts the cylinder to provide rotation.

Anser the above questions, and we should narrow down the possibilites.
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Here is a link with a break down:
https://www.vtigunparts.com/ab2240000Equick/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=85&cat=Uberti+2nd+Model+Dragoon+%2E44cal

Forgot one spring...there is one on the wedge (the part that holds the barrel onto the cylinder pin) but it's lose wouldn't cause an action jam up.

Springs are #19, 20, and 22...but you can forget the main spring, it's either the one taht powers the bolt/trigger or the one running the hand.

Give me a little more help.

Does the cylinder rotate and lock into postion when you cock the gun?...or does it fail to rotate at all...or does it rotate and then not lock into position at full cock?

IF it does rotate and lock, will it do it consistantly when the gun is pointed UP or only when the gun is pointed DOWN?

Does the cylinder rotate freely when the hammer is at 1/2 cock?


Aren't but three real action springs...the main spring is pretty big and not likely to fall out as it's captured by the grips. There is a split fingered spring, one leg that powers the trigger and one that powers the bolt (the part that pops un and out of the frame to lock into the notches in the cylinder to lock up rotation).

There is also a spring on the back of the hand...that's the part that contacts the cylinder to provide rotation.

Anser the above questions, and we should narrow down the possibilites.
------------
Here is a link with a break down:
https://www.vtigunparts.com/ab2240000Equick/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=85&cat=Uberti+2nd+Model+Dragoon+%2E44cal

Forgot one spring...there is one on the wedge (the part that holds the barrel onto the cylinder pin) but it's lose wouldn't cause an action jam up.

Springs are #19, 20, and 22...but you can forget the main spring, it's either the one taht powers the bolt/trigger or the one running the hand.


When in a full cock position the cylinder functions as it should. It rotates clockwise, clicks and locks as to not turn counterclockwise. It doesn't, however, click or lock at all in the half-cock position. It just spins freely. The piece that came out its a leaf spring type component. I imagine if I could get the cylinder out I could figure out a way to get the piece back in. Any ideas?

When in a full cock position the cylinder functions as it should. It rotates clockwise, clicks and locks as to not turn counterclockwise. It doesn't, however, click or lock at all in the half-cock position. It just spins freely. The piece that came out its a leaf spring type component. I imagine if I could get the cylinder out I could figure out a way to get the piece back in. Any ideas?

That's prtty close to the way it's supose to work...rotates and locks at full cock, free to rotate at 1/2 cock. Is supose to be non-locked at 1/2 cock so you can rotate the cylinder and load the gun. But at 1/2 cock it's supose to only be able to rotate in ONE direction. IF that last is true, then it's running as it is supose to....if rotating freely in both directions at 1/2 cock, then you've got a hand spring problem.

Will look for some illustrated general dissassembly directions.

fast search...not quite the same revolver, but Colt's percussions generally follow the same pattern...you're is just larger that the one illustrated, but will break doen into cleaning sized pieces the same way.

http://hunting.about.com/od/blackpowder/l/aa_loadcbrev_a.htm

That's prtty close to the way it's supose to work...rotates and locks at full cock, free to rotate at 1/2 cock. Is supose to be non-locked at 1/2 cock so you can rotate the cylinder and load the gun. But at 1/2 cock it's supose to only be able to rotate in ONE direction. IF that last is true, then it's running as it is supose to....if rotating freely in both directions at 1/2 cock, then you've got a hand spring problem.

Will look for some illustrated general dissassembly directions.

fast search...not quite the same revolver, but Colt's percussions generally follow the same pattern...you're is just larger that the one illustrated, but will break doen into cleaning sized pieces the same way.

http://hunting.about.com/od/blackpowder/l/aa_loadcbrev_a.htm

Ribbonstone: Thanks for the helpful advice, and I'm closer than before. SOOOOO close! The only problem now is that unlike the pictures from the link that you posted the barrel assembly and cylinder don't just come off. I'm wondering if the dragoon has another way to get them off, or if I need a special tool or something. The removal of that retention pin didn't do anything. It's not any loser. Is there anything else I can do. This is a Christmas present, and I don't want to give it to my father dysfunctional. Thanks.

T

Marine,

After knocking the wedge out the only thing holding the barrel is friction. With the hammer at half-cock and the wedge out, unlath the loading lever and pull down. The rammer should contact the cylinder between the charge holes. Pulling a little harder on the loading lever should start the barrel off the center pin, if not, there is a good chance the wedge isn't out far enough.

Sounds like the hand spring is broken. At half cock, the bolt is disengaged and the hand should prevent the cylinder from spinning backwards (the ratcheting). At full cock, the bolt will engage and lock the cylinder.

Unfortunately there's no way to really fix the hand spring if it's broken. The good news is that a new one should only be a few dollars, but some minor fitting is involved, so you might want a smith to install it.

I agree, it's most likely the handspring. The same thing happened to my Lyman 1860 Colt clone twice. Luckily, the replacement parts from Lyman fitted perfectly. In fact, after the first replacement hand broke I sent a letter along with a copy of the packing slip to Lyman and they sent me the second replacement hand at no charge. I also bought two extra hand assemblys as insurance against future breakages. Before attempting to dismantle the Dragoon, get some well fitting gunsmith screwdrivers as imported screws have fine slots and are very soft.

Marine2TheBone, your problem won't be fixed by removing the barrel assembly. That broken hand spring is on the hand which is in the frame. It is a part that attaches to the hammer. I have left you a post on how to replace that part in the Gunsmithing Section. You can tackle barrel assembly removal at a later time! God bless all you servicemen who cover our backs.

Seems the most likely offender...busted one myself on an 1860. His must be broken near the end leaving at least some of the srping still working....when I broke mine completley, the clue was that the revolver wouldn't turn the cylinder when pointed up, but would when pointed down (no spring tension to move the hand forward...so unless gravity put that hand in position, wasn't engaging).