ive decided to put a pillar bedding kit on my win. 375 sinthetic stainless what do i need to free float the barrel and how do i do it. thanks.

If your going to bed the forend just wrap the barrel with several layers of tape, apply a release compound and bed with the rest of the rifle action.

If your not going to bed the forend, just the action and recoil lug and a couple of inches of barrel in front of the lug just remove enough wood from the barrel chanel so you can slide a dollar bill down the barrel.

Be sure and refinish this area so moisture will not penetrate the stock. I am talking about a wood stock.

I usually bed the barrel channel by making three shallow cuts with a radial arm saw the length of the forarm. One dead center two at fourty five degree angles on each side about one half inch deep. Once these are acraglassed in they lock the forearm from any warping. You can free float or not when you do this.

Got one Winchester 375 in Alaska that was carried by a game warden that never lost it's zero in 27 years. It was carried in some very wet conditions.

I like Brownells acraglass about the best. Do your bedding in steps, it makes it a lot easier.

Good luck with your project.

Sorry I just noticed you are talking about a synthetic stock. You can still pillerbed and glassbed those, but you might want to talk to the factory about what bedding compound to use.

Some of the synthetic materials in todays stocks, unlike the fibreglass stocks I used to deal with are hard to find bedding materials for that will stay stuck. They are almost like trying to glue something to teflon. Brownells has a help line also. They could probably answer that question.

Again good luck with your project.

If your going to bed the forend just wrap the barrel with several layers of tape, apply a release compound and bed with the rest of the rifle action.

If your not going to bed the forend, just the action and recoil lug and a couple of inches of barrel in front of the lug just remove enough wood from the barrel chanel so you can slide a dollar bill down the barrel.

Be sure and refinish this area so moisture will not penetrate the stock. I am talking about a wood stock.

I usually bed the barrel channel by making three shallow cuts with a radial arm saw the length of the forarm. One dead center two at fourty five degree angles on each side about one half inch deep. Once these are acraglassed in they lock the forearm from any warping. You can free float or not when you do this.

Got one Winchester 375 in Alaska that was carried by a game warden that never lost it's zero in 27 years. It was carried in some very wet conditions.

I like Brownells acraglass about the best. Do your bedding in steps, it makes it a lot easier.

Good luck with your project.

Sorry I just noticed you are talking about a synthetic stock. You can still pillerbed and glassbed those, but you might want to talk to the factory about what bedding compound to use.

Some of the synthetic materials in todays stocks, unlike the fibreglass stocks I used to deal with are hard to find bedding materials for that will stay stuck. They are almost like trying to glue something to teflon. Brownells has a help line also. They could probably answer that question.

Again good luck with your project.

would you get the kit from brownells or another place i was looking at is called score high gunsmithing

Sorry I didn't get back to you. Brownells glassbed can be purchased from many sporting goods stores or from Brownells. Usually I buy from a local store, it saves me the shipping costs.

There are three kinds of acraglass now. The original that has a 93,000 pound tensile strength, an acraglass gel which is not as runny as the original and a new one with steel fibres in it.

I personally like the original simply because of 40 years of use, but any of these seem to work well.

Brownell's has a great help line and some good tech articles. If this is your first glassbed job give me a PM and I will tell you some of the things I do. Do want to let you know most of my work is with wood stocks, though I did build a bunch of light weight guns with Brown precision stocks in the late 70's.

I did some repair work on some of the Ram Line stocks a couple of years ago and found the material not a good match for the glassbedding compound. You need a really good degreaser to get the epoxy to stay stuck.

Good luck in your project.

Sorry about all of the questions and what not, but Bob are you suggesting that instead of bedding both action screws at once I do one and then move on to the other?

I'm a bit of an accuracy nut, and have all my new rifles glass bedded and the barrel floated before even taking them to the range for load development. I personally think it's a help in the accuracy departent. Bed the action and one inch beyond. You may as well get your trigger lightened while you're at it. Most of todays triggers are far too heavy. Just one mans opinion. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal