Well I was at a gun show this weekend and found a .257 mould. I have a 25-20 win, and wanted to cast for it. I asked the gentlemen what grain it was. he was unsure but thought it was 100grain. So I bought it from him for 20 bucks, not sure if it was going to work for me. I went home and melted down some shotgun shot and casted a few bullets with it, then weight them. They were 86 grains, I have load data for 86 grain bullet, so that should be OK if I use that data, correct? does any one have any tips for a newbie? thanks!

Well I was at a gun show this weekend and found a .257 mould. I have a 25-20 win, and wanted to cast for it. I asked the gentlemen what grain it was. he was unsure but thought it was 100grain. So I bought it from him for 20 bucks, not sure if it was going to work for me. I went home and melted down some shotgun shot and casted a few bullets with it, then weight them. They were 86 grains, I have load data for 86 grain bullet, so that should be OK if I use that data, correct? does any one have any tips for a newbie? thanks!

That mold should work, it's the factroy bullet weight.

Tips?

1. IF the mold is not clean and pre-warmed, the bullets will come out patially filled or heavily wrinked (or both)...toss them back into the pot.

2. IF the mold or the lead is slightly too hot, the bullets will come out a bit frosted looking. So long as the froted look is light and all the sharp edges of the bullet are still sharp, just slow down and lower the lead temperature.

3. IF the bullets come out heavily frosted and the coners rounded, you didn't follow #2 and the lead and mold are really too hot...toss them back into the pot and let things cool down before casting again.

4. Don't stike the plate too early...let the lead harden a bit.

5. Flare the cases when loading...lead bullets are not improved by shaving them when you seat them, and 25-20 cases are thin and will be ruined once they catch on the bullet base.

6. Start your powder charges lower than expected...DO go with published data, but start with the minimum load.

7. A good mold is NOT a good substitute for a hammer, pliers, or pry bar...treat it gently.

8. IF the mold is troublesome, first "trick" is to "smoke" (cover with a layer of soot from a wooden amtch or butane lighter) the mold. May need to do this everal times, but eventually it will straighten itself out.

9.When in doubt...flux.

10. Be ruthless in sorting ut the buggered ones...an imprefection on the base is much more destrctive to accuracy than a one on the nose.
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Which is better...casting 120 bullets an hour with a 10 percent reject rate, casting 220 bullets an hour with a 25% reject rate, or casting 220 bullets an hour and just ignoring the defects?

You should get a cast bullet reloading manual like one of Lyman's if you don't already have one. They go over the good info ribbonstone told you and have reloading data also. You may need some other lead (ww's) or tin (lead-free solder) besides shotgun shot to fill out your mold better. I have a bag of magnum shotgun shot that is 6% antimony for hardness in a melt. The more alloy in your casting melt will result in the bullet weighing less.

Bill