I am looking to get a new CVA ML. Does anyone have any experience with the CVA brand ML? If so were should I start?
What model do you have experience with? Should I go wit hthe pivot block, bolt action which is the easiest to use. Which is the easiest to clean?
Thanks
kyyotehunter@yahoo.com

Yotey

I've had a couple of them. One was a stainless inline and one a standard swing hammer. Both were in 50 cal. Both gave me good service. I found both had the best accuracy for me with cast Lee REAL bullets. I gave the inline to my best friend for Christmas a couple of years ago. He has killed several deer with it. His swing hammer he built from a kit just wouldn't shoot worth a darm. I traded the other off for a 54 cal Remington 700 ML inline. Wanted to hunt elk and shoot a little larger bullet.

I am looking to get a new CVA ML. Does anyone have any experience with the CVA brand ML? If so were should I start?
What model do you have experience with? Should I go wit hthe pivot block, bolt action which is the easiest to use. Which is the easiest to clean?
Thanks
kyyotehunter@yahoo.com============================ ===========================

I use T/Cs because you can't find a better warranty in the entire firearms industry. You can be the 3rd owner with no purchase receipt & a scope mount that covers the barrel serial numbers -- still T/C Inc. does not care should you wear out a part & complain to them via a phone call.

Now remember what I just typed! I did not say the part you were complaining about was only defective ... but also that the part was wore out from either too much use, too much owner-abuse - plus just plain defective. You & an an army of friends can even fire that T/C gun until you-all are blue in the face & kill the part -- then call & complain after you killled it. You can even abuse a part like I did to my T/C sidelock lock assembly when I tried to change a spring unsuccessfully & all the parts went flying everywhere. I admitted abusing it & they still replaced it free.

The best thing about this warranty is if you send them the entire rifle for a small repair like a loose open sight, you may get a unexpected pleasant surprise in the return mail ... ie... some other free part you didn't even know was bad like a trigger assembly or new wood stock that they found to be defective.

So you see... T/C will replace free of a charge either worn or defective parts by simply calling them at their headquarters & asking for the gun tech (Jack) for details on sending the gun or part to them for repair or replacement.

Or.... for around $100-$125 less, you can buy a CVA & get a standardized, limited lifetime warranty, soft, extruded Spanish barrel with owners manual bullet/powder restrictions & lesser gun range odds that your accuracy is top-tier & your trigger-pull/creep is acceptable.

The choice is yours!

I recently set up a CVA inline rifle for a friend. He purchased it at Cabelas for under $200 and it came with a scope and mounts.

I've always hunted with a traditional muzzleloader and this set up experience was interesting, it reinforced my opinion that many hunters are purchasing these in-line rifles because they are inexpensive, and have the overall appearance of the bolt action rifles that they are accoustomed to.

The appearance is decieving. This CVA is a very complex firearm whose operation is nothing at all like your favorite Remington 700.

First of all there is a special tool to remove the breech plug, which has to be done every time you clean the rifle. The breech plug has a very long flash hole, too long in my opinion. Then before you replace the breech plug you must coat the threads with a special high tech grease, which is not included with the rifle. Next, there is another special tool to place the 209 shotshell primer in the breech plug and to remove it after firing. This requires dexterity and will be difficult to do under low light conditions. The barrel has a 1 in 28 twist, unsuitable for patched round balls. Lead conicals like Lyman's Shocker can be used, but this rifle is really designed for pellets and jacketed bullets in plastic sabots, which require the barrel to be cleaned before reloading. After explaining all of this to my friend, I have the distinct impression that he will never use this gun.

On the other hand, my "Kentucky" flintlock can be reloaded in about a minute, and I can fire many shots before the barrel needs to be cleaned. My tools are simple and kept in a leather "possibles" bag slung over my shoulder. The .50 round ball easily takes deer up to 100 yards.

I am looking to get a new CVA ML. Does anyone have any experience with the CVA brand ML? If so were should I start?
What model do you have experience with? Should I go wit hthe pivot block, bolt action which is the easiest to use. Which is the easiest to clean?
Thanks
kyyotehunter@yahoo.com

I'll add my .02. As mentioned, the new inlines, although looking like a bolt action rifle, are nothing like a bolt action. This is true of the T/C or Winchester or CVA or any other "bolt-action" muzzy. I have used and currently own a CVA bolt-action inline muzzy. I am very happy with the results I have gotten from this rifle. Note I say rifle. Most of the "cheap" sidelock muzzy's are not designed for the new bullets on the market. If you look, most of them are still designed for the ball and patch and are rifled for such.

I agree that T/C muzzy's are top of the line. No question. Stainless barrels are less susceptable to rusting and therefore may be a better option when dealing with blackpowder. However, all barrels will eventually rust over time if steps are not taken to prevent it.

I have had absolutely no problems with my CVA and I have used it for four seasons now. I took 5 deer with it last year, all being one-shot kills and none going further than 30 yrds. I use two 50gr Pyrodex pellets under a 295gr CVA Powerbelt jacketed hollow point. Absolutely devestating on whitetails out to 100 yds. Yes 100 yds. It will effectively kill further than that, however, I will not shoot further than that with a muzzy. Too many "bad" things happen to a 300gr slug past this distance, especially from a muzzy. The 209 primer is a bit of a fuss to use, but is in all of the bolt-actioned muzzy's I have used.

If you are looking to purchase a new muzzy, my suggestion would be to seriously consider the break-oped actioned models. Yes you need a tool to remove the breech plug, but so you do with most other models. The 209's are easier to access with the break-opens and they are a bit easier to clean. Most current manufacturers are making a break-open mode. If you want top of the line, go with the T/C Omega (which is not a break-open, but along the same principal). However, if you cant afford that, look at the CVA's; very good service and affordable. They may not have awesome triggers, but they are functional. Any part that may ever need replaced will most likely be covered by CVA, but if not the parts are not expensive to buy. Ain't really much to go wrong, unless it is really mistreated.
There are also other "off-brand" models available. Cant really comment too much on them. My buddy has one he got through Cabela's. It kicks like a mule (carbine and straight synthetic stock) and he has trouble keeping it on target at 100yds. Not sure if it was him or the gun though.

Good luck with whatever you decide. Just keep in mind that BP is corrosive, no matter what you buy and you need to be diligent in its cleaning regimen.

I have a traditional style CVA .50 caliber. Once I figured out how to use it ( I bought it used, my first ML) it worked fine. Mine shoots REAL's pretty well, but it shoots the Lee Minie ball even better.
I'm not a big ML expert, but for 90$, I've eaten a lotta venison and never had a problem.