I took my 35 to the range today, and out to 50 yds with 200 grain corelokt factory loads, it was shooting real good; at 75 yds it started to open up, and at 100 yds, fliers all over the place. this is a 1950 model, the barrel is in good shape, and I can't figure this one out. I dont believe it is the scope, as I said earlier, the short range groups were fine. The temp was about 80 degrees, with a real light wind, and I was shooting from a rest that was strapped down to the table. The gun was also held in place with clamps that are part of the rest. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I'd be willing to bet that the spread is caused by, as you put it, "strapping down the gun". Just rest the forarm on a asndbag or rest and see if your results change....

M141a, the gun was not strapped down, just the rest itself. The clamps on the rest are rubber that grip the stock and not the barrel, and there is a cup on the rear that the butt goes into. That way there is no question as to whether the gun is accurate or not, as basically all I do is pull the trigger. I sight in all of my rifles this way.

I bet the scope is set to be parallex free at close range.Set it to be parallex free at 100-125 yds and you should be good at all your usable ranges.

Riflemen10x

I bet the scope is set to be parallex free at close range.Set it to be parallex free at 100-125 yds and you should be good at all your usable ranges.

Riflemen10x

Now that you brought that up, I will display my ignorance - what is parallex? Is it the shadows around the edge of the view? And how do you adjust it?

5766 - I don't suppose you can use the iron sights?

Parallax is the difference between where the crosshairs appear to be vs. where they are actually pointing. Set the rifle on sandbags, and then move your head around behind the scope and see if the crosshairs seem to move in relation to the target.

Unless the scope has an adjustable objective, it will be set parallax-free (focused) at only one range, and be off by greater and greater amounts as you move away from that exact distance.

Never said how hot the gun was ,and how many rounds over-all were fired at one time . The band on the hand guard could be getting tight as the gun warmed up ,and also the rifle could be come dirty . I would let it cool ,clean it then fire a few rounds and let it cool.
I like reloading the rifle with 180 gr. bullets that seem to flatten things out and also close in on the groups . Then I also shoot lead ,that seems to heat the barrel quick.
When the rifle gets hot , I grab the other rifle or take a break. If it still does this coldand there is no fouling in the barrel , and I am not getting tired , I would look for something loose.
I might shoot 50 rounds spread out over about six hours over a cooler day out of my '54 336/35RC shooting over a sand bag or just offhand. :D
Happy

I was shooting 3 different rifles, so the gun had time to cool down, as I was shooting 3 rounds, slow fire, with each gun, and a pause between. This rifle does indeed have a scope without an adjustable objective, and the iron sights had been removed by a previous owner. Is there a way to overcome the parallax problem? I have never dealt with this before, as all of my other scopes have the AO on the scope. As for reloads, I do not have a set of dies for this rifle yet, and 200 grains are the standard in my area.

Detecting parallax isn't hard. Set up the gun on the bags so it stays put with your hands off and the crosshairs are on the target or something at 100 yards. Look through the scope while moving your head around so you're as far left and right as you can get and still see the crosshairs. Try top and bottom too. If the crosshairs move on the target you've got parallax at that distance. Try half and double the range and see which reduces parallax. If the problem is parallax and you got good groups at 50 yards, you should see less parallax there.

The short term cure, if you can see the end of the barrel in the scope, is to cheek the gun so the barrel is in the same place in the field of view for each shot. That gets you looking through the scope in the same place and neutralizes parallax.

An AO scope may not be adjusted properly either. Check them out too. You may have to set the AO to half or double the range to eliminate parallax. You could adjust some old scopes at home by screwing the front lens in or out. Best to send modern sealed scopes back to the factory.

Bye
Jack

What brand scope is it and what power? Also try another brand of ammo. I have rarely seen corelokts shoot very small groups. Corelokts 140 grains shoot a 5.5" group @ 100 yards out of my model 7 7mm-08. With most scopes parallax is set at 50 or 100 yards unless the objective is adjustable.

Thanks,

Jason

I would check a couple of things. In my own experience I have found I tend to "yank" rather than squeeze the trigger, the longer I shoot. Second, shoot at 100 yds, first....put up some white table paper, two sheets side by side with your target in the middle. Shoot 3 or 5 bullets, check to see where they are hitting and how they group, repeat the process after 10 minutes cooling of the gun. It should be able to be held in a clenched hand. If it cannot be held...it is too hot.. Do this BEFORE making any adjustments with the scope. Your best groups should be the first ones, when the rifle is cool. If they are very low or high or to one side or the other, but grouping well, then you need to adjust the elevation+/-. I wouldn't fool with the windage at first. If you are way off the paper...then have the gun bore sighted or get a boresighter and do it yourself. That should get you on the paper. Longer distances will magnify any movement, flinches, etc.(Usually 25 yds is a good distance to sight in a new gun...rather than at longer distances. If it's on at 25 yds., it should be close (2-3in) high at 100 yds.) Let the forearm rest on the front pad. Hold it lightly. Take a few breaths, hold, and gently squeeze the trigger. The break should be more of a surprise than an anticipation. If you hold the breath longer than 10 seconds, stop, step away, and come back after a minute or two. Check all screws for tightness. Unless you shoot a lot of ammo, the gun should stay relatively clean. After 100 rounds, run a bore-snake through it. If you clean the gun, you will end up having to start all over again. Once the gun is sighted in, don't clean it until after hunting. Modern ammo is pretty clean, not like blackpowder or the older stuff. If this doesn't cure the flyers at 100 yds have a gunsmith check the gun.