Well since most of you are all experianced riflemen, I thought I would start this thread and ask you all how you clean your rifles. I am new to my gun I just purchased today and would like to know how to clean it RIGHT before firing it.

There is a, break in, cleaning shooting system that most shooters use on a new rifle. It consists of shooting a round, cleaning, shooting a round and cleaning for the first ten shots. If you do a search here on breaking in a new rifle it is discussed several times.

To tell the truth I've always shot a new rifle five shots, then cleaned it, then five more and cleaned it til it went thru about 40 rounds. I do this while I'm sighting it in. I use a bore snake with a good copper solvent for a rifle.

When I get it home I use JB bore cleaner with a brush and a patch wrapped on the brush and run it thru about 20-40 times.

I played the bench rest competition game for about 10 years and always got good accuracy out of rifles so treated.

I see you got a Remington 30-06. Remingtons have hammer forged barrels and they come pretty smooth from the factory. I have five Remingtons, two in 8mm magnum, one 280 mountian rifle, one model 7 carbine in 308 and a 700 heavy bbl varmiter in 243. All do an honest 1 inch group at a hundred except the VLS varmiter, it's got a 6-24 scope and shoots much tighter groups.

I suggest that you take the gun apart before you shoot it, including the bolt and clean it well and lubicate with your favorite oil. I like Tri-flon as it worked well in Alaska in all weather including 50 below zero. Lots of times a factory new rifle will have nasty grease in the bolt that slows down the firing pin strike. Take the action out of the stock and clean and oil the places that you can't see with the stock on. Be sure and tighten all the screws when you put it back togather.

you might also want to look at the sticky in this forum that tells you how to adjust the Remington Triggers. It is fairly easy and with a trigger scale can make shooting your new rifle accuratly much easier.

Another thing to consider is the scope mounting. I like to put a little fingernail polish on the scope base mounting screws and make sure every scres is tight on the bases and rings. Can't tell you how many times I've found loose screws when a gunstore puts on scopes on customers guns.

Sweet, Ill clean it right now. Pretty bored and got tomorrow off so Ill be messin with it all night. Im making a list of items to pick up tomorrow so far I have:

Bore Snake
Copper Solvent
JB Bore Cleaner
Tri-Flon Oil

Do an archives search here on the board and you'll find endless threads regarding this topic.

Always, if possible, always use a bore guide! Every sporting good store seems to carry one or two different makes for just about every gun made. They are cheap, they don't cause any additional time or encumberance, yet protect your bores from improper cleaning.

There are a lot of opinions if breaking in is necessary. Some people swear by it, some swear at it. It can't hurt, other than your wallet and your watch, if you use a bore guide, I don't think. I've done it on rifles and I can't tell if it helps or not. I don't do it anymore, unless the maker recommends it.

For normal after the range cleaning, I usually run a few patches of Hoppes through the bore and let sit for an hour or so, then scrub with a brush, then patch out. Repeat this as necessary until you don't see any of the black or carbon fouling on the patches. You will probably start to see some blue, if you are shooting copper jacketed or copper monolithic bullets about that time. I dry the bore, the run two patches soaked in Sweets 7.62 through the barrel. After about 10 minutes, I put a nylon brush on the rod and scrub the bore as much as I feel is need (always using that bore guide and never reversing direction with a brush while it is in the barrel). I do not let the Sweets sit in the bore for more than 15 minutes (read the instructions on the bottle, nasty stuff) before patching dry. Repeat as needed. After all the blue or copper fouling is gone and the bore patched dry, I run an oil patch through the barrel, then a dry one.

Pay attention to the chamber of your rifle, if you are soaking it with any kind of cleaner, you may be using the wrong bore guide attachment or may be using too much solvent. I usually use an oversized patch (12 gauge) over a nylon brush and rotate it around in the chamber to get the excess solvent out of the chamber and the lug recesses. Seems to work well.

Now folks like MikeG and kdub will wax and wane about how great Wipe-Out is, I think they are pulling your leg, unless you have several days to allow Wipe-Out to work. Personally, I think those two have been smoking their running socks. :D

I recently purchased a CZ 550. Peering down the bore it loooked ready to shoot but I thought I'd clean it just for something to do. I have never seen so much crud come out of a barrel. I used Hoppes #9 and Gun Scrubber, a bronze brush and lots and lots of patches before it came clean.

Good luck with your new gun. What did you get?

I went with:

Remington model 700 30-06 Sythenthetic Stock
Leupold VXII 3x9x40
Sling
Rock Mount Bi Pod

This is a dumb question but what cal is a 30-06? 30 cal? Cause im buying cleaning stuff for it at the moment and dont want to purchase the wrong items.

Yes, the 30-06 is a 30 caliber cartridge. Bullet diameter is .308".

You'll need a rod that will fit through the bore (most except for shotguns? will fit), a 30 cal jag and 30 cal brushes.

If you are going to use solvents with a high ammonia content to clean the copper fouling, such as Barnes CR-10, Sweets 7.62 and others like those, you will need to purchase a nylon brush for scrubbing. Bronze bristle brushes contain copper and will wear out very fast using high ammonia solvents. They will also give you a false reading that copper is still in the bore. Bronze is fine for powder and lead solvents.

Hmm, I can use both lead and copper solvents correct?

Hmm, I can use both lead and copper solvents correct?

Quite a few of the solvents do double duty for lead and copper. You will most likely shoot copper jacted bullets a lot more regular than lead bullets. I like Wipe Out. It's like kdub said, there are lots of threads available in the archives that have dealt with this.

Good Luck

Ill try and find some. Im really just trying to compile a list of stuff to pick up for a 30-06.

Anymore, I buy just about all of my cleaning supplies from www.midwayusa.com

Like faucettb said, get a boreguide. I bought a cheap one for my ruger77 (under $10), and it works great. It should be easy to find an inexpensive one for the Remington 700 action, and they are well worth it for that price. I personally use Tipton Carbon cleaning rods on all of my rifles now. They seem to be a good investment for around $20. I've had one of mine for over a year now, and I just purchased another for the smaller calibers when I bought the 223.

A 30 caliber jag, 30 cal patches and a 30 cal bronze brush will also be needed, but the brush should have come in your cheap Hoppe's kit along with enough patches to just get you started.

I personally clean my rifles by running a bronze bore brush soaked in Hoppes #9 Powder solvent a few times. Then a Hoppes #9 soaked patch, and then dry ones until they are pretty clean. If the bore is a little rough and holds on to more powder fouling (black stuff), I will repeat this process. Then, I spray in some Wipe Out, and I let it sit a couple hours or overnight. Then, I run a couple dry patches down it to take the copper fouling (blue stuff) out. Then once it's dry, I soak another patch with the #9, dry patch until they come out clean, and then I send down one oiled patch (any gun oil) and then send down one dry patch. The great thing about this procedure with these cleaners is that other than the wonderful smell of Hoppes #9 (original not benchrest), there is no odor. I have to clean my guns inside with no garage and too many nosy neighbors who would freak if they saw guns. I still have a huge bottle of Butch's Bore Shine, which works fine if you can do all of your cleaning outside. Otherwise, it's just too strong smelling.

There is quite a bit of debate over whether or not barrel break-in is worth it. It definitely helps out ammo manufacturers' pocketbooks, but I don't think it's necessary. There is no proof that it does or doesn't work since no one can possibly test the same barrel both ways. My brother's 30-06 Savage with no break in will shoot under an inch for 3 shots with Factory Remington CoreLokts. My 308 and 270 also shoot sub-MOA, and I bought them used. Were they properly broken in? I really doubt it, but they still shoot great. If you want to try it, fine. But I'd rather be shooting more and cleaning less. That's just me though.

amndouglas

edit: In my opinion, the bore snakes are good for a quick good 'nuff kind of cleaning. I still prefer to use the more conventional cleaning rods though.

Ill try and find some. Im really just trying to compile a list of stuff to pick up for a 30-06.

Another handy thing to have is a 30 caliber Bore Snake. You drop a line down the barrel and it has an embedded brush with a long "patch" area that cleans the bore. They're real handy at the range or out where you don't have a more elaborate cleaning set up.

I have both brass and plastic coated cleaning rods, the plastic coated ones are less of a problem and easier to keep clean.

30-06 ammo is clearly marked. You don't want 25-06 or 338-06. These are two popular derivations of a 30-06 using different size bullets for the same cartridge case. They're just necked up or down to accomodate a different caliber bullet. -06 is the reference designator for the year (1906) the cartiridge officially came into being. 30 stands for 30 caliber which is actually a .308" diameter bullet. Some "calibers" are referred to as a whole number even though the actual bullet size is a little different. For example, a 25 caliber is a .257" diameter bullet, a 45 caliber might be a .458" or .451" diameter depending on if it were a rifle or hand gun cartridge, and there are many others.

You will have questions related to bullet weight for the application. Lighter weight bullets have less felt recoil. Heavy for caliber bullets can kick like a son-of-a-gun in a light weight rifle. Practical bullet weights for a 30-06 will go between 150 grains on the light side to 180 - 200 grains on the heavy side. There are 7000 grains to one pound. The range of 150 - 180 grains gives you good bullet choice for hunting anything from light framed deer and antelope to moose and large elk. It's a bit much as a varmint gun but I guarantee you you would not be the first to drop a praire dog with a 30-06.

If you plan to reload you need to visit the other forum.

Thanks guys heres my list so far, tell me if I should make aditions.

30 Jag (what is a Jag?)
30 cal Bore Snake
30 cal Bore Guide
Copper/Lead Solvent
JB Bore Cleaner
Tri-Flon Oil

Thanks guys heres my list so far, tell me if I should make aditions.

30 Jag (what is a Jag?)
30 cal Bore Snake
30 cal Bore Guide
Copper/Lead Solvent
JB Bore Cleaner
Tri-Flon Oil
A jag is the tip that screws onto the end of the rod (usually made of brass) that pushes the patches through the barrel. Some cleaning kits come with a plastic loop type attachment for patches. I don't like using these as you have to remove the patch with your fingers after it's pushed through the barrel. Messy. With a jag, the patch falls off as it exists the muzzle. I don't like pulling dirty patches back through the barrel (which you could do with the plastic hoop).

If you get a "Universal" Bore Guide, it will have a few different sizes of inserts to accomodate most popular calibers. You'll see when you are shopping for the guides.

By the way, I prefer using the cotton or linen patches, instead of the pressed synthetic ones. I think they work better.

Im off to do my shopping thanks all.

Now folks like MikeG and kdub will wax and wane about how great Wipe-Out is, I think they are pulling your leg, unless you have several days to allow Wipe-Out to work. Personally, I think those two have been smoking their running socks. :D

Don't wear socks. One of the virtues of a warm climate! :D

Don't run either. I'd rather just shoot back if something is chasing me.... :eek:

ok. dumb question, but I need clarification. What exactly does a bore guide do? Is it just to protect the muzzle from getting banged up with the cleaning rod? Because when I clean my rifles I take the bolt out and push the rod through the breech end so my muzzle doesn't really get affected by the rod. I may be doing something wrong though, and maybe I should be changing my methods of cleaning.

Thanks.

ok. dumb question, but I need clarification. What exactly does a bore guide do? Is it just to protect the muzzle from getting banged up with the cleaning rod? Because when I clean my rifles I take the bolt out and push the rod through the breech end so my muzzle doesn't really get affected by the rod. I may be doing something wrong though, and maybe I should be changing my methods of cleaning.

Thanks.
The bore guide is a tube of sorts that fits in the action, in place of the bolt. It keeps the rod from rubbing on the chamber and bore of the rifle. It also keeps solvent and oil from dripping down in the magazine well. With the solvent port attached to the back end of the bore guide, it also keeps you from getting solvents or oils on the rifle from drips, and keeps it off your hands. It provides a "guide" to center the rod and its attachments through the "bore".

oh I guess I was looking at the wrong bore guides then, thanks

There are some super-cheap "bore guides" like the one that came with a cleaning kit I got before my life was made better by Tipton's Carbon rods. Anyway, they are just like a small cone-shaped chunk of plastic with a hole in the middle for the rod to go through for people who have to clean from the muzzle. Is this what you are talking about?

I bet they cost less than a penny to make, and they aren't worth that.

As far as real bore guides go, I don't understand what makes most of them so expensive. I'd like to get one for my Sako 75, but I'm not paying $40 - $50 for a plastic tube and an O-ring. I bought one for my new used Ruger for less than $10, and it works great. But the same type won't work in my Sako because of the smaller bolt diameter and 3 locking lugs. It's pretty easy to take care of, even without the bore guide, so I'll keep on without it.

amndouglas

**** cleaning your rifle sucks, I fired 25 rounds through it today at the range, this ******* wont come clean haha. ive been running patch after patch through it 1 dipped in solvent, 5 dry, 1 dipped in solvent 5 dry and so on.

ok level with me rifles dont actually come clean after theyve been fired through do they? Ive been running patch after patch its still coming out dirty.

It will come clean, but you will have to work at it. Not the most enjoyable experience of your life, either, but you can appreciate it if you use the right mindset.

By the way, I sent you a PM (private message).

The method I told you is much easier. Regardless, the rougher your bore, the more work it will take to get it clean. My 308 only takes one repetition of the cleaning procedure I mentioned earlier. My 270, I can scrub fouling out of it all day long, hit it with wipe-out and still scrub fouling out of it for another entire day. I've only gotten it totally clean twice. Once when I first bought it which took almost an entire small bottle of Shooter's Choice and about a 100 patches. The second time was when I decided to try Wipe Out. The problem is that even though, the solvents are loosening everything up, only the brush can get into the rough spots like machining marks or small pits if there are any. Even with the roughness, that 270 is still unbelievably accurate, and I don't normally thoroughly clean it. I usually repeat the procedure on it once or twice and call it good enough. It's just a pig to get perfectly clean. My brother's Savage is similar. I like to get my barrels as clean as I can, but you have to foul them before they shoot well again anyway.

Here's what my 270 can do with 5 shots at 100 yards, rough barrel and all. So don't sweat it if your barrel is a little rough. Great accuracy is still possible.

amndouglas

holy cow! that is nice.

the more you shoot it/clean it, the easier it is to clean later, but different guns are easier to clean than others as well. My Browning .270win is a whole lot easier to clean than my fiancee's Rem ADL .243win

A jag is basically a "plug" slightly smaller than the bore. It is pointed on one end and threaded for the cleaning rod on the other end. It is used to push patches through the bore.