I need to find info on how to reload brass 12 ga hulls and what tooling is required?

Will get back with a site that would help. Until then:

HAve only loaded brass 12ga. and 10ga. shells with hand tools. Have NEVER loaded them with smokeless, only balck powoder and Pyrodex RS. The primer pockets are like the old baloon heads,,,theya re rised up on the inside, and if primed for rifle or pistol primers, have a small fash hole. Can NOT use normal shotshell decappers.

The cases are LARGER on teh indise than plastci or paper shells. Bras is thinner...out side dimentions are the smae...so they are thinner on the inside. Means you usually have to use 11ga. wads in a 12ga....for best perfomance, will use the old card and fiber wads (and that's all you can get in 11ga.).

You don't really crimp them like a shotshell. Can roll crimp them slightly, but mostly it's the over shot wad (thin cardbard) that does the job. I just glue them in place.

Here is one simple set of tools:
http://www.rockymountaincartridge.com/page10.html


and this one, while geared to black powder, will get you some idea of how brass cases are loaded (and has enough liks to keep you busy for hours):
http://www.tbullock.com/bpsg.html

I need to find info on how to reload brass 12 ga hulls and what tooling is required?

I loaded some in the 70's. Mine used a pistol primer and worked fine with the same loading data as regular shotshell hulls. Oversized wads were used. No crimping. Used a thin to wad which was held in by a substance I got at the drug store called "water glass", AKA as sodium silicate. Water glass is the stuff used in some stop leak for radiators. Use an eyedropper to run a thin ring around the edge of the wad and it holds fine. Don't plan on resizing the hulls and most likely you will not want to shoot them in autos or pumps.