I've been cleaning / rearranging my reloading area.....which includes sorting through every thing there. I was checking the various pistol sizing die containers and noticed some instrustions on a set of Redding titanium carbide dies that are contrary to my reloading practices.

"Important Note:

Carbide pistol sizing dies are not designed to full length size cases. Adjust the die to size only that portion of the case htat has been expanded during firing. On some cases an undersirable ring or belt may appear near the base if the sizing die is incorrectly adjusted. Thus may weaken the case and is not desirable."

I can't guess the number of the .44 mag. cases I've full length sized over the years and to the best of my knowledge have never had a "ring or belt appear near the based". You can certainly see the die's stopping point reflected on the case, but that's the total effect. First of all, many of the loads have been full loads and while I've never measured the width over the full length of the case, always assumed the case expanded to fit the chamber over the full length of the case?

I can certainly measure the full length of the case to determine what happens, or can resize less than full length and see if the case fits the chamber. But quite frankly, if I'm not creating a problem, I'd just as soon not have to compute the sizing die depth every time I increase or decrease the powder charge.

What say you experts....kinda hard for me suggest Redding doesn't know what they're talking about.

Dan

Dont know what they are talking about. The die does mark the case but Ive never seen excessive bulges. Years ago it was recomended to leave a nickles distance between the die and shellholder with a carbide die. Could be that some cases have a thicker base and dont spring back after sizing.

Dont know what they are talking about. The die does mark the case but Ive never seen excessive bulges. Years ago it was recomended to leave a nickles distance between the die and shellholder with a carbide die. Could be that some cases have a thicker base and dont spring back after sizing.


My standard setup would have about a nickel's distance between die and holder, so sounds like we're using pretty much the same set-up.

Just goes to show the advantages of not reading the instructions :D :D

Dan

Instructions are for...

everybody else..not me. :)
sure does not make sense though.I have five brands of dies and none of 'me say that about the sizer die..no Reddings' though.

The instructions do seem contrary to today's practice. This is just my guess but perhaps the titanium carbide ring in the early dies have a short radius that, if incorrectly set, could contact the case at the base where the walls thicken into the web and create a ring or bulge. I believe I had an early set of carbide dies that tended to do this with .357 nickel plated cases. I would "iron out" the bulge by resizing the carbide sized cases with a steel die. Kind of defeats the purpose of why I purchased a carbide die in the first place. The carbide rings on later dies have a longer radius that tend not to size anywhere near the base of the case. In any event the older dies do work perfectly if adjusted to meet the needs. :)

My understanding for the reason to leave a space between the carbide die and the shellholder is that the carbide is fragile, and can break over time if contacting...

Is there enough pressure in a pistol case to actually blow it??

My understanding for the reason to leave a space between the carbide die and the shellholder is that the carbide is fragile, and can break over time if contacting...

Is there enough pressure in a pistol case to actually blow it??I believe you're right! I read somewhere that carbide is very hard and does not take kindly to impact so there must be a space between the carbide ring and the shellholder. I doubt that normal compression with a pistol case will crack it.

Carbide does not take to impact or chatter when using a cutter. I have worked with carbide dies of a large kind as a tool & die maker I once worked with a set of draw dies that made refridgerator compressor shells. They did take a lot of pressure against the draw ring that would simulate pressing up against a shell holder. I never seen one crack after 1,000,000 or so parts made. These dies had a carbide inserted ring much as a set of reloading dies. I would say to stay away from hitting them with hammer, but set them as low as you want including some springback pressure to center the dies in the threads and you'll still be okay. As it has been stated many times before sometimes just maybe ignorence is bliss. ha ha In the future RTFM when you buy something new. ha ha

I've chipped carbide tools, it can be done. However... even if the die just touches the shellholder when you are setting it up, slack in the press linkage will create a tiny gap when there is the resistance of sizing a case.

So I run the dies down till they just contact the shellholder, tighten the lock ring, and worry no more about it.

I offer to you all my compromise solution. I screw all my dies down to contact with the shellholder. Then I put a machine washer in between shellholder and die. I then put pressure on the die while tighteing the lock ring. DO NOT try to cam the press over center when doing this. This will "plumb up" the die in the press so as to make your cases square with the die and ram. You will be full length sizing with no stress on your dies.
I hope I was clear here.
Cheezywan