I just got an H&R Ultra Hunter in 25-06. The question I have is about the scope rail that came installed on the gun. The rail at the breech end is mouted flush. The rail toward the muzzle end has a gap between the rail and barrel. The barrel size does reduce in contour, but is this gap normal or do I need to re-tighten the rail?

Thanks

Jason

I just got an H&R Ultra Hunter in 25-06. The question I have is about the scope rail that came installed on the gun. The rail at the breech end is mouted flush. The rail toward the muzzle end has a gap between the rail and barrel. The barrel size does reduce in contour, but is this gap normal or do I need to re-tighten the rail?

Thanks

Jason

It is funny you ask. When I bought my Ultra in .223 heavy barrel the rail that came with the gun had a little set screw on the far side of the rail that could be raised or lowered to accommodate contoured barrels. I assume that it was so that you could mount the rail and give the end of the rail support.

However, when I sent it back to the factory to get the 45-70 fitted to receiver I ordered another rail for that barrel. The rail that came with that barrel did not have the set screw. Neither barrel really needed the set screw, althought I did snug it down against the barrel, just in case.

I have seen other new Ultra's that do not have the set screw, so maybe it was a thought at one time and it was decided later that it was unnecessary. I would say that the overhang is normal. It ain't effected the accuracy out of my 45-70.

The standard scope rail comes without the set screw. That set screw was unique to the Ultra. None of my Handis have a set screw and I can't see that it hurts anything at all.

I normally remove the scope rail, when I get a new Handi, and put some thread locker on the screws. Then I retighten the screws and I know it will stay in place.

BTW, a Weaver #82 is basically the same scope rail, but it has less slots for ring location than the NEF scope rail.

The standard scope rail comes without the set screw. That set screw was unique to the Ultra. None of my Handis have a set screw and I can't see that it hurts anything at all.

I normally remove the scope rail, when I get a new Handi, and put some thread locker on the screws. Then I retighten the screws and I know it will stay in place.

BTW, a Weaver #82 is basically the same scope rail, but it has less slots for ring location than the NEF scope rail.


My scope rail has the set screw toward the front of the rail that screws in from the side toward the last screw that attaches the rail to the barrel. My question is: Should there be a gap between the barrel and the scope rail where you can actually see the screw that attaches the rail to the barrel. The rail contacts the barrel everywhere except up toward the front of the rail.


Thanks

The Ultra rail is an inch longer and has one more slot in it, 6 instead of 5, plus it has the set screw in it which is meant to provide support for a longer scope in the event it gets bumped. The set screw should have a .0015" gap, about the thickness of a piece of paper, it shouldn't touch the barrel, just be real close. These are the instructions from H&R, not mine, take it for what it is. I prefer the standard rail, myself.

The #82 weaver rail only has 2 slots and the rear one is about an inch from the rear so it's not much help in mounting scopes all the way rear to avoid the hammer/ocular bell/powder ring interference issue. I have used em by cutting the flat rear portion off and redrilled the mounting holes, it then works pretty good. It's not hard to cut cross slots in it, either. Just use the edge of a file or a dremel burr.

A lot of new owners have thought the holes in the barrel are drilled shallow or the screws are too long, so the impression that the screws are bottomed out is perceived. The fact is, the holes are filled with thread locker from the factory and if the rail is remounted, it could be loose. A little heat applied to the old thread locker will soften it and make it easy to clean out. The bottom of the holes should be shiny, not dull looking.

It is common on handi's to have a gap between the barrel and the front side of the rail after the barrel tapers down. On mine I filled the gap with JB Weld (lots of release agent on the barrel and in the screw holes and on the screws them selfs). Before it was rock hard I trimmed the excess off with a knife. When dry painted it black with a Sharpie. Some people claim that it helps accuracy to bed the scope rail this way.

It is common on handi's to have a gap between the barrel and the front side of the rail after the barrel tapers down?

Yup, they're all that way.

I don't bother bedding the end of the rail, but I do lap the rail to the top of the barrel. The area around the holes in the rail and the barrel are high spots and don't mate well with the barrel. I use blue loctite as a bedding material when I mount the rail, it provides 100% contact with the barrel that way.

I appreciate all of your help. The medium Burris rings I purchased want allow my scope to clear the hammer. So Im looking forward to picking up a set of high Zee Rings to strap my Burris scope to this gun and seeing what its got. This will be my 1st 25-06 and my 1st single shot!


Thanks

Jason

Yeah, I had to use the high sig zees for my Burris FFII on my .25-06 Ultra, too....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v386/quickdtoo/25-06.jpg

Yeah, I had to use the high sig zees for my Burris FFII on my .25-06 Ultra, too....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v386/quickdtoo/25-06.jpg


Hey there Wrongtarget. We'll have matching rifles to the T. Believe me I didn't mean to copy. Maybe we share good taste.

Thanks

Jason

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v386/quickdtoo/Emoticons/thumb-smiley-003.gif