I keep shooting squibs. All I can think of is the 231 is forming a bridge in the Lee disk powder measure. The last time it was with 5.3 grains of 231 behind 125 gr jacketed bullet with a winchester primer. And it was 2 consecutive rounds.

There is somthing about putting a brass rod down the barrel of a revolver and beating on it with a hammer that deeply offends me.

As always I appreciate all the input.

Ben, I havent used that particular powder measure before, but if it like any other powder measure, make sure the inside hopper as well as the powder drop is perfectly clean. Some powder measures have some corrosion protection inside that needs to be cleaned before using them the first time. If the powder still bridges inside the drop, you could try lightly rapping on the measure housing each time you operate the lever, but this shouldnt need to be done.
I'm sure you will get plenty of good feedback from the folks on this site. Good luck.

Offends most people, you ain't alone.

The Lee disk does seem to bridge now and again with certain powders...could be the plastci picking up a static charge (didn't we rub plastiic together in Physics 101 to create a static charge...isn't that pretty much what the Lee disk does?)...could just be the basic cussedness of the design. I won't use the Lee disk unless I can look into each case charged..won't use it on a progressive press that won't let me visually check.
-----
Got into a discussion here a while back...so i experimented. It is possible to have a bullet stick in the barrel AND have the action cycle (ejecting the fired case and feedin in a new round with a bullet lodged in the bore). touching off round #2 with bullet #1 still in the barrel will get ugly real fast.

In revolvers, if doing real fast DA work, will find tht you jst can't stop your finger in time even if you do detect the squib...have had it happen, sensing the problem but just not able to get the "stop" signal down to my finger in time to stop. Only "luck" was that the bullet was 1/2way down the barrel, so all i did was ruin he barrel on a nice S&W 1917....if it had stuck in the forcing cone, would have not only ruined the barrel but would have expanded or split the threaded section of the frame as well. New barrel fitted and the gun was back in service....and I promised not to shoot DA with that crappy old surplus ammo.

Offends most people, you ain't alone.

The Lee disk does seem to bridge now and again with certain powders...could be the plastci picking up a static charge (didn't we rub plastiic together in Physics 101 to create a static charge...isn't that pretty much what the Lee disk does?)...could just be the basic cussedness of the design. I won't use the Lee disk unless I can look into each case charged..won't use it on a progressive press that won't let me visually check.
-----
Got into a discussion here a while back...so i experimented. It is possible to have a bullet stick in the barrel AND have the action cycle (ejecting the fired case and feedin in a new round with a bullet lodged in the bore). touching off round #2 with bullet #1 still in the barrel will get ugly real fast.

In revolvers, if doing real fast DA work, will find tht you jst can't stop your finger in time even if you do detect the squib...have had it happen, sensing the problem but just not able to get the "stop" signal down to my finger in time to stop. Only "luck" was that the bullet was 1/2way down the barrel, so all i did was ruin he barrel on a nice S&W 1917....if it had stuck in the forcing cone, would have not only ruined the barrel but would have expanded or split the threaded section of the frame as well. New barrel fitted and the gun was back in service....and I promised not to shoot DA with that crappy old surplus ammo.

Has anyone else had this problem with the Lee powder disk and 231? Hard to believe that I am the only one to be this lucky.

Has anyone else had this problem with the Lee powder disk and 231? Hard to believe that I am the only one to be this lucky.

I've not had this problem, but...

Which Lee disk measure are you using? If it's the inexpensive "standard" safety disk measure, then it uses a heavy spring for the return. This type is really goof proof as long as you don't screw the hopper down too tight causing the disk to bind under the hopper and not return properly. 231 and HP38 are a pretty fine grained powder and if the granuals get stuck between the hopper and disk it could cause the disk to bind. This will mean the disk doesn't return and get filled properly.

If you're using the "pro auto disk" on a progressive press like Lee's pro 1000, then there's a chain that pulls the disk back. This chain must be adjusted properly or the disk won't return fully and therefore might be under-filled.

If the problem is just static, then disassemble the powder measure and wipe the inside of the hopper, disk and powder chute with an anti-static sheet (the kind that goes in your clothes dryer). Or... you could run powdered graphite through the measure.

I use the pro auto-disk and the only time I have had a problem so far is when I turned the powder feed off. Even though I do use it on a lee Pro 1000 Progressive press, I do look into each case before seating the bullet to see the charge. I would much rather take alittle longer to load and know there is powder in each case, than to pop a bullet into the barrel without a charge.

I have had a similar problem with the Lee Auto Disk in my Lee 1000. Mostly with .45 ACP. This was the original version with the return spring. Despite being careful about not tightening down the screws, and making sure that the hopper moved freely, I did have occasional squibs.
It appeared to be caused by several factors - some powder getting under the moving surfaces and causing binding (a fine powder such as 231 would do this, but it is not bridging), and slighly dirty parts that would not allow the return spring to do its thing every time.
My short term solution with the Lee 1000 was to make a manual push on the top of the powder measure part of my loading stroke.
My long term solution was to buy the upgrade kit with the chain return. I quickly replaced the chain with a nylon cord (thin cord) which allowed a positive return to battery (so to speak), as well as allowed a bit of flexibility to allow the primers to be fully seated.
I used the Lee autodisk for many years in my .32 without problem, even though it was with fine powders such as 452AA. I only had the problem with the .45 ACP, and I don't know if that is a characteristic of the calibre and the Autodisk, or simply because it was a different powder measure.
In any case, squibs are a thing of the past with the positive return chain model of the Autodisk.

I have had a similar problem with the Lee Auto Disk in my Lee 1000. Mostly with .45 ACP. This was the original version with the return spring. Despite being careful about not tightening down the screws, and making sure that the hopper moved freely, I did have occasional squibs.
It appeared to be caused by several factors - some powder getting under the moving surfaces and causing binding (a fine powder such as 231 would do this, but it is not bridging), and slighly dirty parts that would not allow the return spring to do its thing every time.
My short term solution with the Lee 1000 was to make a manual push on the top of the powder measure part of my loading stroke.
My long term solution was to buy the upgrade kit with the chain return. I quickly replaced the chain with a nylon cord (thin cord) which allowed a positive return to battery (so to speak), as well as allowed a bit of flexibility to allow the primers to be fully seated.
I used the Lee autodisk for many years in my .32 without problem, even though it was with fine powders such as 452AA. I only had the problem with the .45 ACP, and I don't know if that is a characteristic of the calibre and the Autodisk, or simply because it was a different powder measure.
In any case, squibs are a thing of the past with the positive return chain model of the Autodisk.


Its hard to believe the disk could bind given the power of the spring, but you are the only one that has had this problem and solved it.

I was about to order a swivel adapter, and I wanted a charge bar. Just ordered the update kit.

Thanks for the help. Anyone else like to weight in?

never had any problem with my RCBS uniflow or my pact dispenser, heresy, I know, but its the truth