Lyman #2 formula
Does anybody remember the formula for Lyman #2 alloy mix?
What do you think about the new solder for copper pipes (98% tin .093% silver bearing) to mix into the pot instead plumber solder which is 50/50 .

Lyman #2 formula
Does anybody remember the formula for Lyman #2 alloy mix?
What do you think about the new solder for copper pipes (98% tin .093% silver bearing) to mix into the pot instead plumber solder which is 50/50 .
#2 alloy--9lbs wheelweights/1lb50/50 solder=10lbs # 2 alloy----4lbs linotype/ 1lb 50/50 solder/ 5lbs pure lead = 10lbs # 2 alloy

One can achieve BHN 15 (the hardness of Lyman #2) with just clip-on wheel weight metal and solder. Get yourself a lead hardness tester and have fun. Many modern wheel weights have higher antimony content than those of a couple decades ago; however, as long as the weights melt at between 600 and 640F, you should be OK. If you have any floaters in this temperature range, they could be zinc and should be culled. When I process wheel weights, I separate the stick-on from the clip-on, and melt the latter in the above temp range. The batch usually comes out at about BHN 11-12. The addition of a few percent lead-free solder should kick the hardness up to BHN 15, or the equivalent of Lyman #2.

MC

Thanks guys.

When I process wheel weights, I separate the stick-on from the clip-on, and melt the latter in the above temp range.MCMC, I have a boxful of the stick-ons which I have held off melting because I heard that the stickum gets all over and is difficult to remove. Do you have a method for melting these and are there problems with the stickum residue?

Marshal Kane,

I just melt them outside, over a propane flame. At the temperature I use to melt stick-on wheel weights (750 to 800F) the glue burns off but is a little smelly so you should perform your stick-on wheel weight rendering where it can't bother your neighbors. I also cover the pot with its lid until everything is good and hot. Be careful when you remove the lid and wear enough protective clothing (e.g., a shop apron) or you might singe your chest hairs when removing the lid :-) Toss a tablespoon or so of paraffin in the pot, light it on fire and flux the heck out of the melt. you should end up with a nice clean batch of low antimony alloy when finished.

MC

Marshal Kane,
. . . the glue burns off but is a little smelly so you should perform your stick-on wheel weight rendering where it can't bother your neighbors.
MCThanks, MC. I wasn't sure what happens to that stickum after the lead is melted so I held off using those weights. I usually cast ingots on weekdays anyway just so I know the neighbors are probably at work. ;)

5% Tin, 5% Antimony, 90% lead

Finding wheel weights locally has been a problem for me.

I came up with a pretty close approximation by using the following recipe.

15 lbs. magnum #8 lead shot (BPI)
3 lbs. of pure lead (well, 99.9%)
1lb of 95/5 tin-antimony solder ("Lead Free")


I know there is a bit of arsenic in lead shot, but, this alloy is about as close as I can get.

19lbs of (as close as I can make it) lyman #2 for $24 (my cost) is not too bad.

In my opinion, 5% tin is a waste of an expensive component. You really only need 1% to 2% tin to get good castings.