Am looking for a real quality built mould for .45-70 in the 425 grain range. Bob Applegate used to make the absolute finest moulds I have seen to date. He no longer makes them however. LBT is now only turning out standard moulds and no longer sizes them exactly for your throat. Anyone know of a good custom mould maker?

I've had Lee make a few for me. Just be sure to tell them exactly what you want including what alloy you are using. No complaints on their quality or prices.

Try Mountainmolds.com or victorymolds.com
I have both and like Victory much better. Greg

I recently had Mnt. Molds cut a mold for my 450 Marlin. Dan did a great job as usual. I went to great pains in slugging and doing a chamber cast in my freshly Beartooth lapped bore. You also have to mock up a dummy round to check for loading and feeding problems. Still working up loads for it.

Am looking for a real quality built mould for .45-70 in the 425 grain range. Bob Applegate used to make the absolute finest moulds I have seen to date. He no longer makes them however. LBT is now only turning out standard moulds and no longer sizes them exactly for your throat. Anyone know of a good custom mould maker?


I have a few 10 to 15 year old Lee molds that are still making nice bullets. The first Lee Mold I every used was in the early 90's a friend of mine picked up a 230 round nose it is still making bullets that have killed deer and hogs. For the money it is hard to beat a Lee Mold

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1140256052.2209=/html/catalog/bullmol2.html

Got to Ballisti-cast. I have been using a 420 gr LFNGC for my 45-70's for several years. They are very high quality. The bullet fits the throat on lever actions without trouble.

I recently had Mnt. Molds cut a mold for my 450 Marlin. Dan did a great job as usual. I went to great pains in slugging and doing a chamber cast in my freshly Beartooth lapped bore. You also have to mock up a dummy round to check for loading and feeding problems. Still working up loads for it.


What are you shooting that .475 bullet out of? I'm looking for a good mould for my .480. What is the nose length? How does it shoot? Load data? Details! Details! :) If you want to reply, PM would be great so as not to hijack the thread.

Thanks,

Steven

Thanks guys, I will give them all a shot. D Wright

ballistic cast makes about the best.

I've got a TLC460-425-RF coming soon from Lee for my 450 Marlin.

http://home.awesomenet.net/~ranch-dog/Casting/TLC460425RF/TLC-460-425-RF_Drawing.jpg

Nice looking bullet BABore. Just a heads-up, on the Mountain Mold website I read where he isn't accepting new orders until he gets caught up and possibly relocates...

Try this listing...

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=6031

I've just discovered a gentleman Richard Doughty who is also making custom moulds. I have a first on order with him now. Pictures suggest a mould quite similar to Rob Applegate's.

Best regards-

Sky C.

From that list, who does nice work for around 100 bucks in iron alloy (similar to RCBS/SAECO) blocks? I like the flexibility of Mountain Mold's design interface but I always have to detail his blocks before they vent properly. I'm currently designing a 200 grain, .30 gas-checked "Mountain Mold" and thought I'd have it cut in iron (for the first time) but if there's a similar mould maker out there I'd like to check him out. Most of the stuff I have done is in the .30 to .38 cal range for smokeless rifle applications; i.e., I currently don't need a .45 cal BP expert.

MC

From that list, who does nice work for around 100 bucks in iron alloy (similar to RCBS/SAECO) blocks? I like the flexibility of Mountain Mold's design interface but I always have to detail his blocks before they vent properly. I'm currently designing a 200 grain, .30 gas-checked "Mountain Mold" and thought I'd have it cut in iron (for the first time) but if there's a similar mould maker out there I'd like to check him out. Most of the stuff I have done is in the .30 to .38 cal range for smokeless rifle applications; i.e., I currently don't need a .45 cal BP expert.

MC


I'm just about to find out for myself about the work of Mr. Doughty having ordered my first mould but not had one in hand yet. He cuts custom designs in iron as well as brass (my favorite), and aluminum. $65 for first cavity, $20 per additional cavity. I'd guess you could forward your design to him and see what he has to say.

I've also had David Mos cut a custom design for me in iron. A bit more expensive at $125 for a two cavity but it was very well executed.

I've got a couple from Dan @ Mountain Mold in brass that I've been quite happy with.

Best regards-

Sky C.

Sky C,

What size moulds are you referring to? After all, it's harder to get great results from a .300 SD rifle mould than a .150 SD pistol mould. I'd like to know how the three mould manufacturers stack up in your opinion. If you don't feel comfortable doing it here for the whole world to see, feel free to send me a PM.

MC

Sky C,

What size moulds are you referring to? After all, it's harder to get great results from a .300 SD rifle mould than a .150 SD pistol mould. I'd like to know how the three mould manufacturers stack up in your opinion. If you don't feel comfortable doing it here for the whole world to see, feel free to send me a PM.

MC


MC- My experiences so far (limiting the discussion to the above three previously mentioned)...

Moulds I have ordered:

Mountain Mold: My design using his online program. .312" 115gr Ogival FP design for .32-20. double cavity in brass. Mould casts a bit undersize vs. my requested min. diameter dropping bullets at .311" to .3115". No detailing required or special quirks for casting with this mould.

Mountain Mold: My design using his online program. .382" 265gr Ogival FP design for .38-55, double cavity in brass. Mould works beautifully & is so well vented that I actually have to either (ladle) pour from a slight distance from sprue plate or I can lower the temp of my melt. If not - I get strong whiskers into the vent lines. However - by adjusting my technique as above it cranks out excellent bullets without the whiskers, fully filled out. The diameter of the mould is what I wanted and it took no tune-up other than smoking the mould with a kitchen match which I have found very helpful for the brass moulds.

In both cases - the moulds are finished on the interior very well and are a pleasure to work with. The exterior is fine but certainly not on a par with Rob Applegate's work. Very reasonably priced to get a customized design. I will be ordering more.

D. MOS: Two bullets of my design. 300gr. bore rider GC @ .379" & same design as PB 285gr, each is double cavity & done in cast iron. As delivered I found the venting wanting & corrected it by deepening the vent lines with a carbide tipped scribe. I also lightly lapped the cavities with 400grit SiC in grease using a bullet from each of the cavities as the lap. I find that about 20 turns in each direction for cast iron moulds often polishes out what I believe to be micro-burrs on the cavity edges. Following this treatment, there is no measureable change in diameter using my micrometer but the bullets literally fall out of the cavities when the blocks are opened. With the mould thus tuned - it casts beautifully. It is on a par with the Saeco moulds only with 3 alignment pins vs. two for the Saecos. The moulds were a bit expensive at $125 each. With other custom options out there doing a good job at lower prices - I will probably not buy more of these.

R. Doughty: Mould on order. No first hand experience yet however the exterior finish on the mould I saw a picture of rivals what Rob Applegate's product is like. (I was fortunate to order a number of his prior to him retiring and his moulds are the standard by which I judge all others.)

I also have a number of Applegate, NEI, LBT, Old West, LEE and an Eagan custom or semi-custom designs in both pistol & rifle flavors. Most moulds have required a bit of experimentation to find out what they want in terms of alloy temp, pouring method, etc. and afterward, most of these as well as most production moulds from RCBS, Lyman & Saeco will benefit from some degree of tuning. I have found the two most common tune-up tricks to be deepening vent lines (sometimes adding venting on the tops of the blocks under the sprue plate) and lapping the cavities. The venting is done with a carbide scribe to correct portions of the mould where bullet fill-out is incomplete (leaving slightly rounded edges where they should be crisp, and the lapping eliminating the tendency for a bullet to stick in a cavity requiring tapping on the handles to get it to drop. Following the lapping operation, bullets usually simply fall from the mould when the blocks are opened. Once the tuning is done and the alloy temp and method are learned, I find most moulds will perform quite well.

Personally - my biggest beef with any mould design is if it fails to cast bullets of a sufficient diameter. If I can get a mould that casts at the desired diameter, I'm 90% of the way there.

Best regards-

Sky C.

Sky C.

Agreed and thank you for your experiences. I only wish I had the equipment to make my own moulds. However, I'd probably go broke trying to sell them at competitive prices.

MC

P.S. I'll let you know how my iron "Mountain Mold" turns out but I don't think Dan will be producing moulds again until this summer. Here's a question for you... when designing a GC bullet in the .30 to .35 cal range, what length GC shank do you specify? I'm torn between spec'ing a .110" shank like RCBS-30-180FN and shortening it to .080" (more like a typical SAECO GC shank) to limit lube aft of the case neck. I know Veral Smith claims a long shank aids in keeping the bbl clean, but it's highly doubtful I will ever drive this design much more than 2100 fps.

Sky C.

Agreed and thank you for your experiences. I only wish I had the equipment to make my own moulds. However, I'd probably go broke trying to sell them at competitive prices.

MC

P.S. I'll let you know how my iron "Mountain Mold" turns out but I don't think Dan will be producing moulds again until this summer. Here's a question for you... when designing a GC bullet in the .30 to .35 cal range, what length GC shank do you specify? I'm torn between spec'ing a .110" shank like RCBS-30-180FN and shortening it to .080" (more like a typical SAECO GC shank) to limit lube aft of the case neck. I know Veral Smith claims a long shank aids in keeping the bbl clean, but it's highly doubtful I will ever drive this design much more than 2100 fps.


MC-

Not sure about the keeping the bore clean or not (scraping effect) but I prefer to have distributed lube where possible. I usually design to allow a space ahead of the GC which captures lube there. I also figure if Vearl's right about the obturation of the bullet taking place from the rear - this will provide the hydrolic lubing effect ASAP. So far my bullet designs have met my expectations - but I don't push high velocity anyhow.

Best regards-

Sky C.

"... I usually design to allow a space ahead of the GC which captures lube there."

Sky C.

But how much of a space? Even a "SAECO" type shank of .080" creates a small gap for lube. I think a Hornady gas-check is about 1/16" deep.

MC

P.S. Here's another question for you... What angle do you specify in the lube grooves: 40, 45, ? Personally I never go steeper than 45 degrees.

But how much of a space? Even a "SAECO" type shank of .080" creates a small gap for lube. I think a Hornady gas-check is about 1/16" deep.

MC

P.S. Here's another question for you... What angle do you specify in the lube grooves: 40, 45, ? Personally I never go steeper than 45 degrees.


MC-

My approach is more aesthetic with regard to the amount of space ahead of the shank. It's either the same width as other grease grooves for the few I have that have very narrow grooves; or, .080" to .100" lube gap ahead of the shank of a seated check if the grooves are on the wider side. My thought is that the aft end of the bullet will have plenty of grip for the rifling based on the strength of the GC so no need for additional material to strengthen it there. As noted before - I feel it is an area that probably benefits from the hydrolic effect of depositing lube (if in fact that's the mechanism). I do like a strong front driving band and feel that's an area that does need all the strength you can provide to get a good grip.

As for angle of grease grooves - I don't have strong feelings about it. It's nice if the bullets drop from the mould easily so overly square I try to avoid. One genlteman that I had cut me a mould was pretty firmly of the opinion that the trailing angle should be quite shallow - on the order of 30 degrees. His theory is that is would serve to push the lube out more easily under the acceleration of the bullet; kind of helping the centrifugal action by providing a funnel type shape for the lube to follow off the bullet shank and against the bore. I let him cut the mould that way but honestly - I have not found lube groove design to be critical. I should also note that I'm an accuracy minded, but casual shooter. I don't shoot matches or run highly scientific experiments to explore all the limits. My typical accuracy expectations for a rifle are to put 5 shots into a bit less than an inch at 50 yds. off a solid sandbag rest. Most of my shooting is with iron sights (aperature style for th most part) on lever action rifles. I shoot 98% - 99% cast bullets in everything AND I don't consider myself an expert in the least. There are plenty of guys out there with much more actual experience than me when it comes to designing bullets & accuracy shooting.

Many of the benchrest guys have developed very firm opinions about bullet design which they seem to be able to back with their good shooting. I've followed a lot of their recommendations - probably the most significant is to size the bullets as large as necessary to fit the throats. If a bore rider design - it needs to lightly engrave the rifling. If you want to hear from the folks that I consider to be in the know about such things - I'd recommend you post a question over at the "Cast Boolits" site.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/index.php

Best regards-

Sky C.

Try this website: www.castbulletengineering.bigpondhosting.com.au. They make superb moulds and will ship to the US. Your $ exchange rate should favour you nicely. Jim Allison is the mould maker, is very helpful and emails you back promply. He has a number of moulds for the 45/70 and will make moulds to your specs.