How fast can I shoot a non-heat treated linotype gas check bullet. (22-30cal)?
How about a 1 to 1 lino and WW?

Will

Some other limiting factors in how fast are barrel twist, gas check and type of lube used. The smaller calibers seem to start leading faster also.

Some say 2700 fps. using linotype and gas check. In my own experience, I've gone to 2400 fps.

I also use 1:1 linotype to wheelweights in my .454 Casull Puma at a chrongraphed 2000 fps with good results.

It would be more precise if you had asked how fast with an alloy having a hardness of 22BHN assuming all other variables are under control. I've witnessed "Linotype" registering anywhere from 20 to 30 BHN. Given that, accuracy depends on peak pressure, pressure curve, bullet fit, bullet design, bullet hardness, sectional density, velocity, rifling twist and friction (did I forget something??) Some of these variables depend on others so I like to boil it down to bullet design (which incorporates fit, stability, strength, etc.) powder burn characteristics and lube... assuming a barrel in good condition. Nevertheless, the faster you go, the more you need to understand.

Given that, one doesn't need an expensive alloy to break 2000 fps and compete in the accuracy department with jacketed bullets; i.e., gas-checked BHN 15 metal in .30 caliber is strong enough. How fast do you want to go? I've shot a few groups with 300 plus grain plain based .432" bullets from a short barreled .444 (444P) using home made lube that surprised me in terms of accuracy at 1900 fps. However, the bullets were hard (BHN 25 or better), the bbl was short and well lubed with apparently just the right amount of twist, the bullets fit just right and designed to cope with the velocity and pressure; and, the powder provided just the right amount of shove over the proper time interval, etc.

The "hottest" cartridge I've shot cast bullets from has been the 30-06 which is not as forgiving as the 30-30. However, a good .30-06 will shoot cast bullets to 2700 fps with fine accuracy if fed correctly but you need to start with more conservative loads and work up in order to understand what's going on; i.e., don't simply jump into full power '06 loads with a reloading manual recipe. I would start with a modern production 22" 30-06, 100 pounds of clip-on WW metal, (less clips and dirt) 5 pounds of lead-free solder, a good bullet lube, a couple boxes of Hornady gas-checks and a 10 pound bag of generic cat-litter. I would work up a 2100 to 2200 fps load with H4350 using a proven bullet that fits your rifle in the 180 to 200 grain range and shoot it a lot to test for reliability. When I obtain a consistent 1.5 MOA (5 rounds) with my load, summer and winter, I would proceed. I'd harden the bullets by heat treating (you need a hardness tester), let them sit on the shelf a week, load them with another 3 to 4 grains of H4350 and shoot them within a week or two. If accuracy goes sour with the addition of 200 fps, the first thing I would probably do is try a better lube. By now you're probably thinking, this is time consuming... and you're right... you had better enjoy your hobby. You may even need to fire-lap your bbl to remove irregularities.

Then again, there's always the Lottery Approach. You can buy a box of Beartooth 170 grain LMN bullets sized .002" over groove diameter, fill an '06 case full of H4350 and let 'er rip.

MC

P.S. I suppose before I recommend cat litter as a flux/melt insulator I had better warn that it does absorb moisture from the air; therefore, let it float on top of the hot melt for several minutes before stirring it in.