any one know of a maker of syntec stocks for a marlin 444s. trying to make it wheather proof

Check here, they ain't cheap!

http://www.wildwestguns.com/Accessories/accessories.html

If you are a tinkerer you can modify Ramline Marlin 336 stock to fit. The butstock is not a problem. It's a drop in fit.
The forend needs to be modified. I have done it on my 444 and it seems to work fine so far. I shot only about 20 rounds through it.

If you are a tinkerer you can modify Ramline Marlin 336 stock to fit. The butstock is not a problem. It's a drop in fit.
The forend needs to be modified. I have done it on my 444 and it seems to work fine so far. I shot only about 20 rounds through it.

I have the Ramline® Synthetic stock & forearm on my 336 30/30. What did you have to do to the forearm to make it work on your 444?

David,

The process is somewhat lengthy. Unfortunately I didn't take pictures as I went along, and this was quite while ago so I'll try to explain to the best of my recollection.
The Ramline 336 forend is somewhat narrow and it doesn't want to stay engaged in the receiver recesses. It's springy enough that you can pop it in place while exerting pressure. So I used the source of heat, a hair blower, and heated the forend. (One way of doing it, in case you find the forend to slim compared to the original Marlin one, is to build up the thickness by using some sort of epoxy which when mixed radiates heat as a result of chemical processes.) This makes it more malleable .I then used the tape to secure the forend to the receiver, taping around the barrel. The idea was to have the forend retain new shape after cooling down. At the same time I used Accraglass Gel to bed the forend to the receiver. This is by no means necessary.
The next step involves filling the barrel band recess so it is flush with the surface of the forend (I’ve applied the gel, waited until it started to harden, affixed the forend cap and secured it to the forend dovetail). I've used remaining Accraglass Gel, but one can use Fiberglass Bondo or some other type of epoxy. It is critical that one prepares the surface by sanding prior to applying epoxy. You should have about 3/8” “lip” on the front of the forend to engage the forend cap. At this stage I had used excess Accraglass to fill the remainder of the space within forend cap (probably another 3/8”) to make a more rigid connection with the “lip”. This didn’t work as expected (the gel didn’t adhere to the lip) but the gun functioned fine even without the “reinforcement”.
It is critical to apply copious amounts of release agent before using any of the above mentioned epoxies.
I guess that’s the best I can explain. If you have any further questions let me know.

D.