Does anyone make a .400 dia. jacketed bullet with a cannelure in 180 or 200 gr.? :confused:
I need it for a hot 38-40 rifle load.

Whoops. I was wrong (glad I double checked). Hornady XTP bullets do NOT have a cannelure in that diameter, though they are available in both of those weights.

However, Lee does make a factory crimp die for 38-40, which can apply a crimp even without a cannelure.

Whoops. I was wrong (glad I double checked). Hornady XTP bullets do NOT have a cannelure in that diameter, though they are available in both of those weights.

However, Lee does make a factory crimp die for 38-40, which can apply a crimp even without a cannelure.


Uncruel,
I'm using the Lee factory crimp die.I have it adjusted for the max amout of crimp. And, I am still able to push the bullet back in the case mouth after crimping.Without a lot of pressure.That's why I'm looking for a cannelure.Hoping that will solve the problem of the crimp?Someone else mentioned trying a plated bullet.The crimp can sink deeper into the plating than it can on a jacketed bullet??

I'm using the Lee factory crimp die.I have it adjusted for the max amout of crimp. And, I am still able to push the bullet back in the case mouth after crimping.Without a lot of pressure.

I would measure the diameter of the bullets being used. Then I would call Lee. If you are able to do that, then the crimp die is obviously not working correctly. Lee will make it right.

Rainier makes plated bullets in both 180 and 200gr in .400 Dia. Many places have them, I tend to buy mine from Midway, but Midsouth and several others have them as well.

Plated bullets are softer than jacketed, and IMHO are better suited to using a Lee FCD (or even a roll crimp) to crimp where you (or more precisely, your rifle) want them.

IIRC, the 38-40 has a thin case wall (compared to "modern" cases like 357, 44mag, or 30-30 cases) and it may not be able to apply or hold a really firm grip on a jacketed bullet. A plated bullet might solve the problem, or it might not.

You may have a problem with your FCD, all manufacturers have some defects "escape" (not caught by QC), but I would suggest trying a plated bullet first. If you still have jumps, call Lee.

Oddly enough, I sent the die back to Lee when I first started having this problem.Lee checked it out and said it was working fine.And, sent it back.I have tried every adjustment possible and get the same bullet set back.All the bullets I am using are the correct dia.(.400-.401).So, like you say.Plated bullets might be the answer.Or, a cannelure cutter?
Thanks Guys for the feedback.

I'd vote for making your own cannelure. It's quite easy with a simple tool. Might come in handy for other calibers too--such as .32-40.

First, I would put the neck expander/flaring die in a drill or drill press, spin it and apply some sand paper to reduce it's diameter a couple of thousands. This will make a tighter hold. Next, use a taper crimp die from the 40 S&W. This will surely solve the problem.

First, I would put the neck expander/flaring die in a drill or drill press, spin it and apply some sand paper to reduce it's diameter a couple of thousands. This will make a tighter hold. Next, use a taper crimp die from the 40 S&W. This will surely solve the problem.


Sounds interesting.Do you think the taper crimp will hold the bullet tighter than a roll crimp die?

I think the tighter neck/flare will do more than the crimp to hold the bullet. On the 40 and 10mm the bullet will not be pushed in even without a crimp. Make a tighter bullet hold before crimp. Then use either a taper or roll for insurance.

I think the tighter neck/flare will do more than the crimp to hold the bullet. On the 40 and 10mm the bullet will not be pushed in even without a crimp. Make a tighter bullet hold before crimp. Then use either a taper or roll for insurance.

JRR,
I'll give it a try.I'm a little concerned because I only have a drill to use for removing some metal from the expander.I use a Dillon expander.Not sure I can chuck it up in a drill?

I just went out and measured my Dillon expander/flare/powder funnel. It measures .396", and holds .401" cast bullet very tightly. If your's is larger than that, just get another one of the correct diameter from Dillon.

Jrr,
My Dillon expander measured the same as yours(.396"). I also tried the 40S&W taper crimp die and that did not help. Still had the setback.I ordered a cannelure tool from Corbin.That should do the trick.Hopefully?

Look into the Redding Profile Crimp die. Very tight hold. Sort of a like a roll crimp with a taper as well.
Jeff

Jeff,
I may give it a try if this cannelure tool doesn't work.

I use the factory crimp die with good success with 180 gr gold dots.
Also I used to pull factory soft points and reload them under IMR 4227 for hunting. I would load 10 a year and check the sights with last years loads that were left, usually Nine cartriges. They really did a good job on deer.
And lastly I beleive Hawk makes a 200 grain HP for the 38 WCF.

I use the factory crimp die with good success with 180 gr gold dots.
Also I used to pull factory soft points and reload them under IMR 4227 for hunting. I would load 10 a year and check the sights with last years loads that were left, usually Nine cartriges. They really did a good job on deer.
And lastly I beleive Hawk makes a 200 grain HP for the 38 WCF.

I just went to their site.They will do cannelure's for an extra fee.Their prices are already a bit pricey!This would probably make an excellent hunting bullet like you said.But, I need something more for plinking.

Just received the cannelure tool from Corbin.Very well made tool.It is easy to adjust,mounts very solid to bench.and makes a perfect cannelure.Couldn't be happier.And,Oh yes this solved the bullet set back problem.Highly recommend this tool to someone having the same problems in any caliber.I'm not affiliated in any way with Corbin even though this sounds like a commercial.Just a happy customer.Cost was $99 shipped.
http://www.corbins.com/

In some factory loads, they put a cannelure on the case, at the base of the bullet, as a method of keeping the bullet from being driven deeper into the case.
If you can't get the case to give you enough grip on the bullet ( a real possibility with thin 38-40 cases) you might try using the Corbin tool to put a cannelure in the case at the base of the bullet.
I believe the Corbin tool is made to do that, as well as put cannelures in bullets.

In some factory loads, they put a cannelure on the case, at the base of the bullet, as a method of keeping the bullet from being driven deeper into the case.
If you can't get the case to give you enough grip on the bullet ( a real possibility with thin 38-40 cases) you might try using the Corbin tool to put a cannelure in the case at the base of the bullet.
I believe the Corbin tool is made to do that, as well as put cannelures in bullets.

Jack,
You are right. this tool will do all the above,you mentioned.The cannelure on the bullet solved my problem for the 38-40.