Okay folks,

With my recently diagnosed disease of leveritis, I just purchased another one, yep, this time a Marlin 1894 in 44 mag. caliber, 20 inch barrel.;)

It's in great shape, picked it up for 269.00 used on the rack the other day. This one makes 4 levers [ 2 30-30 Winny's; 1 emf rossi 357 and this one in 44mag ].

I'd like to know more about this rifle. It does not have the crossbolt safety.

Best loads it may like? I'm thinking some low recoil Buffalo Bore 44 mag loads for it, any idea how to shoot this thing as cheap as possible?

Potential problems I should be looking for on this model from people who have more experience with them than I?

Thanks

Brownie

I would suggest trying some of the Magtech 240 grain jacketed ammo in it.

I use 240 jft in Mag Tech and Winchester. Some have feeding problems some don't. PMC cone bullets will feed easily. Mine is a P model with a 16" barrel, and at the bench sighting it in will give you a thrill, headache, and severe shoulder area pain. I put receiver sights on the rear and HiViz on the front.
Jim

Thanks for the reponses.

I bought some Rem 240 softpoint and pmc starfire 240's for it today.

Both heads looked like they would probably feed okay.

I'll look for the magtechs next, I know the gun store has them, I just did not buy them.

Any ideas on where to buy a lot of 1K of loads for this rifle on the cheap that can be reloaded once I get the dies?

Brownie

Mine likes the Magtech 240 grain JSP. No problem feeding or any other problems yet.

Congrats on the 44! Have fun. Sorry, I am not an historian on the things but many are. You could probably do a search here for cross-bolt and get the date they started. Do a search for serial #s and you will get how to tell what year your gun was made.

Take the FIRST TWO digits of the serial number and SUBTRACT them from 100. This will give you the year the rifle was manufactured...
Ex.
Serial number 19xxxx

100-19=81

Year made: 1981

Hope that helps some!

Oregon Trail RNFP 240gr, CCI-300, WW231 6.0, 1.565OAL.
I have a Marlin 1894 cowboy. This load is very mild, I have tried Trail boss and could not get the accuracy I wanted. 50ys this load will easily eat the center out of your target. No problems out ot 200yds. I was shooting it today for a match tomorrow. You can get the bullets for $26.50 for 500. Call them direct its cheaper this way. You can even get them unsized and with out lube. I shoot only Iron sights, I recommend getting a Marble tang sight . Have fun.

Yours was made before 1978 as evidenced by the lack of safety. I have a 1976 made .44 mag model I picked up at a pawn shop for cheap, and refinished the stocks myself. Unfortunately Marlin has never changed the twist rate of their .44 rifles, choosing a slow 1:38 which will not stabilize anything heavier than 290 grains. You need to learn how to check yours for the dreaded "Marlin Jam" as well as how to fix it or prevent it whichever the case may be. Since yours is pre-cross bolt you may want to go to a one piece firing pin as it makes the action incredibly slick, but if it might be handled by inexperienced hands stick w/ the factory 2 piece arrangement.
I find that most jacketed ammo in .44 mag. is made for handgun use and therefore won't feed very well in my levergun. However the Lead RNFP cowboy loads in .44 spl will feed quickly and reliably, as do the ones in .44 mag case length. The 240gr. lead round nose flat point over 6 grains of Trailboss in .44 mag cases is my CAS load, I find it very accurate out to 100 yards.
For hunting I use Buffalo Bore .44 mag and .44 spl ammo with great success, and their bullets have a more rounded profile rather than a flat angle so they cycle very well, plus have all the power you need for hogs and deer. I had the Marlin Jam so when I had to replace the carrier I went ahead and put in a 1 piece firing pin, Bear-proof ejector, Marlin Magic Spring, and aluminum magazine follower at the same time. I use it for half of a CAS match alongside my .45 CBC model as well as in the field for hogs and deer.

Okay folks,

With my recently diagnosed disease of leveritis, I just purchased another one, yep, this time a Marlin 1894 in 44 mag. caliber, 20 inch barrel.;)

It's in great shape, picked it up for 269.00 used on the rack the other day. This one makes 4 levers [ 2 30-30 Winny's; 1 emf rossi 357 and this one in 44mag ].

I'd like to know more about this rifle. It does not have the crossbolt safety.

Best loads it may like? I'm thinking some low recoil Buffalo Bore 44 mag loads for it, any idea how to shoot this thing as cheap as possible?

Potential problems I should be looking for on this model from people who have more experience with them than I?

Thanks

Brownie


Try the following link, My 1894 was made in 1978 with the Microgroove bbl The pic shows what the marlin is capable of
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f378/50-110/Rugers/Marlin44Mag.jpg
This load chronographed @ 1800fps with a 20 shot average

I have several boxes of Buffalo Bore 305's waiting to make a trip to the range for testing.

Try the following link, My 1894 was made in 1978 with the Microgroove bbl The pic shows what the marlin is capable of
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f378/50-110/Rugers/Marlin44Mag.jpg
This load chronographed @ 1800fps with a 20 shot average

I have several boxes of Buffalo Bore 305's waiting to make a trip to the range for testing.

Mighty fine shootin' there! Quick question on your next trip to the range; Isn't the 300+ grain bullet too long to chamber in the 1894 action? Also, the 1:38 twist supposidly will not stabilize such heavy bullets either.
My pawnshop project .44 Marlin is stamped MG, but everyone who has ever looked at the rifling agrees with me that it appears to be ballard type.

Thanks for the reponses.

I bought some Rem 240 softpoint and pmc starfire 240's for it today.

Both heads looked like they would probably feed okay.

I'll look for the magtechs next, I know the gun store has them, I just did not buy them.

Any ideas on where to buy a lot of 1K of loads for this rifle on the cheap that can be reloaded once I get the dies?

Brownie

As for buying in bulk, I'd look at Cabelas, Cheaper than Dirt and Sportsmans Warehouse online and see who's got the best prices. If you are looking for ammo that will give you good reloadable brass once you use it up, get the low pressure .44 mag loads such as the cowboy ammo. The RNFP lead bullet design in 200 or 240 grain will give you reliable feeding and cycling as well as leaving good brass that hasn't been stressed by full power charges. In most cases, but not all, the generic .44 mag jacketed soft point will have the most feeding problems as the exposed lead tip will catch on just about anything and jam everything up. Due to your rifle's age you may want to go ahead and pull the magazine apart and give it a good cleaning while you check the condition of the spring. The mag tube never gets cleaned, and can collect all sorts of gunk that may cause feeding problems, plus a worn spring may do the same.
Good luck and keep the board informed on how it works out.

Mighty fine shootin' there! Quick question on your next trip to the range; Isn't the 300+ grain bullet too long to chamber in the 1894 action? Also, the 1:38 twist supposidly will not stabilize such heavy bullets either.
My pawnshop project .44 Marlin is stamped MG, but everyone who has ever looked at the rifling agrees with me that it appears to be ballard type.

Sft,
they measure 1.60 using the BTB 300gr , the BB 1.687 and there are 12 grooves. I also use this bullet in my 444 SS and have excellent accuracy (1.5") as long as the velocity is kept high. I load the 444 @ 2100 fps
Also the cartridge stop can be "tuned" to allow a longer than SAMMI cartridge
http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tips/archive_tips.htm/63
and yes it works like a charm in the '94 and the 444

Sft,
they measure 1.60 using the BTB 300gr , the BB 1.687 and there are 12 grooves. I also use this bullet in my 444 SS and have excellent accuracy (1.5") as long as the velocity is kept high. I load the 444 @ 2100 fps
Also the cartridge stop can be "tuned" to allow a longer than SAMMI cartridge
http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tips/archive_tips.htm/63
and yes it works like a charm in the '94 and the 444
Thanks much for that link, good information that I've copied and saved. I suppose that is the modification referenced in the caveat along with the 300+ grain .44 mag. ammo. I shoot the 270 JFN @1450fps from Buf Bore as well as their .44 spl load. Both feed and shoot great, as does the cowboy ammo out of my 1894.
Brownie, I'd also like to recommend that you give the bore of your new to you Marlin a good cleaning so as to remove any lead fouling that may have built up over the years. My personal preference for doing that is Wipe-out, a foam cleaning solution that does not require any potentially damaging wire brushing. Again, that's my personal recomendation, I don't mean to start a discussion on favorite cleaning solutions; it just works for me.

Wow,

Some great responses folks. I haven't returned to this post for some time, catching up now over the weekend.

I really appreciate all the suggestions.

I will take the spring out and clean it, I did fully clean the rifle when I bought it, it was shot little and cleaned even less.

Keep the suggestions coming, in the meantime, I'm going to pick up some BB loads for it as well.

Brownie

A follow-up on my previous post:
I took that trip to the range with the Buffalo Bore 305's Wednesday.
Impressed!! to say the least, Chronoed 20 rounds @ 1680to 1695 FPS @ 10ft and made several small groups but ALL gathered in a 2.5" group @ 50yds
using a scout mounted red dot with 3 MOA dot. :p
havent had time toscan in the pics but will do so as time allows.(too many projects at once)including building a new house)

A 15 fps extreme spread with factory loads is unheard-of :D :D

SFT;

The serial number starts with "19" so that puts it at 1981 without a safety on here. Is that correct on the formula for year of make?

I took the rifle apart the other night and gave it a thorough cleaning this time. Greased the contact parts that move on each other in operation and oiled her up the rest of the way.

Fixed the Marlin Jam problem with a dremel while it was down for the count and this should be good to go now. I followed the Maurader instructions to the letter and I have to say, for someone not real prone to be good at taking things apart, more like not getting things back together, it was very straight forward.

One thing I found was the mag tube plug would not fall out the end of the barrel, stopping about 1.5 inches from the muzzle. I didn't mess with trying to get it out, but can anyone suggest why and a how to the next time I taker her down for cleaning?

Brownie

I thought the cross bolt safety was added after 1978, but I'll have to confirm that. The serial number indicates a 1981 production year, so you are correct (2000-19=1981)

If the tube plug is not being pushed all the way to the end the spring may have come worn and weak over the years, it's a quick and cheap fix, and while you're at it I'd suggest replacing the plug itself with a metal one, they come in stainless, anodized aluminum, your choice. Not many people realize that the tube mag can become dirty and may need to be cleaned, so I'd start there to see if it start to function properly. Tube mags can also be dented or bent and will affect performance and function, these are a little more expensive than a new spring or tube plug, but it's still not like having to replace the barrel or other parts.

That's my advice for now, hope it helps.
SFT;

The serial number starts with "19" so that puts it at 1981 without a safety on here. Is that correct on the formula for year of make?

I took the rifle apart the other night and gave it a thorough cleaning this time. Greased the contact parts that move on each other in operation and oiled her up the rest of the way.

Fixed the Marlin Jam problem with a dremel while it was down for the count and this should be good to go now. I followed the Maurader instructions to the letter and I have to say, for someone not real prone to be good at taking things apart, more like not getting things back together, it was very straight forward.

One thing I found was the mag tube plug would not fall out the end of the barrel, stopping about 1.5 inches from the muzzle. I didn't mess with trying to get it out, but can anyone suggest why and a how to the next time I taker her down for cleaning?

Brownie

SFT,

I meant the tube plug would not come out the muzzle when I took the spring out of her for cleaning. The spring was not rusted or that dirty, the tube had some grime in it but cleaned up nicely except not getting that plug out.

Brownie

I thought the cross bolt safety was added after 1978, but I'll have to confirm that. The serial number indicates a 1981 production year, so you are correct (2000-19=1981)

If the tube plug is not being pushed all the way to the end the spring may have come worn and weak over the years, it's a quick and cheap fix, and while you're at it I'd suggest replacing the plug itself with a metal one, they come in stainless, anodized aluminum, your choice. Not many people realize that the tube mag can become dirty and may need to be cleaned, so I'd start there to see if it start to function properly. Tube mags can also be dented or bent and will affect performance and function, these are a little more expensive than a new spring or tube plug, but it's still not like having to replace the barrel or other parts.

That's my advice for now, hope it helps.

10-4, my misunderstanding.

I hope someone in this thread can help me...

I am getting a Marlin in 44 Mag.
I am going to have it tuned and all by the guys at Yost Bontiz (I have one of their 45/70 levers and LOVE IT)

Anyway...
I want to get a 44 mag revolver to carry with the 44 Mag lever when in the woods.

1) Will I be able to find a round which would work well in both the lever and pistol for a deer or hog? I will not be shooting further than 100 yrds most likely under 75

2) What pistol would you suggest? Someone told me I should make sure to get a pistol that matches the Marlin in its twist?

Let me know if something like this could work well or if I am just being foolish.

Thanks!

Jeremy

Something like that will work and you are not being foolish. My guess is that the majority of us on this forum have at least one rifle/revolver combo. If not, then maybe I am the one that is foolish.

The revolver's twist rate does not need to match the Marlin's 1 turn in 38". Ruger's is 1 in 20, which is what the Marlin's should be, and it works well.

The mate to my Marlin SS 1894 44 mag is a 5 1/2" SS Ruger single action revolver. If you buy one, get the bisley grip (the SS gun below). Felt recoil and muzzle jump are much less.

As far as factory ammo is concerned, use whatever your guns like. Try 240-270 grain factory loads. I use Hornady 240 grain XTP's in my rifle/revolver. Some prefer the 270 Gold Dot.


The following handload works well in most Marlins and H&R Handi-Rifles. They both have .431"-.432" bores and 1:38 twist rate. Rugers like it too:

280 grain WFN cast Beartooth Bullet, .432" dia.
22 grains H110 powder.
Winchester Large Pistol Primer.
Starline Brass.

Thanks for the reply Nitro.

I am thinking of going with a S&W .44
I like Double Action and S&W just seem to fit smaller hands better.

My combo is the Marlin 1894 20 inch and the Ruger Superblackhawk with 5 inch barrel. I use different rounds with these but I will probably work up a combo Beartooth round for both one day. At least it is on my list.

Thanks for the reply Nitro.

I am thinking of going with a S&W .44
I like Double Action and S&W just seem to fit smaller hands better. .

A S&W 29 or 629 is an excellent choice. However, they are getting pricey. List price on the standard 629 with 6" barrel is $869 and $916 for the 6 1/2" Classic which has the full under lug. I had a 6 incher with a Leupold 2x silver scope mounted on it but, sad to say, I let it get away some years ago. I sold it to buy a Ruger Mini-14 SS Ranch in .223. It was not the biggest "gun" mistake that I ever made, that being selling my Marlin 336ER in .356 Winchester back in the mid-1990's. But that was before they got really hot.

Anyway, check on a used blue 29 or ss 629. You should be able to buy one in excellent condition for $400-$450, $350 if you get lucky.

Good luck.