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View Full Version : Beartooth Bullets in Sabots?


EncoreJoe
06-25-2006, 07:51 PM
Hello all.

I've got a T/C Encore 209x50 and wonder if anyone has used the beartooth bullets in a sabot for deer hunting.

I'm going mulie hunting in NM this fall and think the 265 grain bullet in 44 caliber might be a good choice.

I'm using Hogden triple 7 powder and expect this would achieve 1750 fps with 100 grains of powder.

Has anyone used any of the beartooth bullets for muzzleloading hunting?

What were your results (at the range and in the field)?

Thanks in advance.

Joe

Marshall Stanton
06-27-2006, 02:25 PM
Indeed we have had some great reports from customers who use our normal centerfire handgun bullets in sabots, and we also have a bullet that we developed years ago, perhaps before it was fashionable to shoot sabots in ML's, but they have been widely copied since that time. Here's the link to them.

http://www.beartoothbullets.com/bulletselect/44.htm

Thanks for the question.

God bless,

James Gates
06-28-2006, 08:42 AM
I have got to jump in here! Marshall is correct and I will go even further! We all know what his hard cast heat treated bullets will do on large game! A bullet flying throuh the air, does not know what it came from.......and will perforn the same on game whatever it was fired from!
In shotgun sabot rounds with thin jacketed bullets........the same applies as if the were fired from a handgun.....they may, or may not, expaned properly. This is something the shotgun sabot shooters have not learned, or refuse to learn, that we learned years ago!
In fact, Dixie is now involved in buying 12 gauge sabots and designing/testing a .50 caliber (500 gr) sabot round for dangerous game. It is almost impossible to buy just the plastic sabots. I, for one, prefer full size slug/bullets.......but there is no hard cast heat treated sabot round on the market!
I have to agree completely with Marshall about his bullets in sabots for ML's........maybe people will soon realized how far ahead he was thinking! For added velocity, any of his bullets designed for the .500 S&W will also work!
And again, Dixie's entire design is based on Marshall's design,alloy, etc........only bigger!.......James

Butchb
08-22-2006, 02:05 PM
I have got to jump in here! Marshall is correct and I will go even further! We all know what his hard cast heat treated bullets will do on large game! A bullet flying throuh the air, does not know what it came from.......and will perforn the same on game whatever it was fired from!
In shotgun sabot rounds with thin jacketed bullets........the same applies as if the were fired from a handgun.....they may, or may not, expaned properly. This is something the shotgun sabot shooters have not learned, or refuse to learn, that we learned years ago!
In fact, Dixie is now involved in buying 12 gauge sabots and designing/testing a .50 caliber (500 gr) sabot round for dangerous game. It is almost impossible to buy just the plastic sabots. I, for one, prefer full size slug/bullets.......but there is no hard cast heat treated sabot round on the market!
I have to agree completely with Marshall about his bullets in sabots for ML's........maybe people will soon realized how far ahead he was thinking! For added velocity, any of his bullets designed for the .500 S&W will also work!
And again, Dixie's entire design is based on Marshall's design,alloy, etc........only bigger!.......James
I bought some hard cast 310gr LWFNGC, 44cal bullets from Cabela's for my 44mag revolver. Just for the heck of it, I used a MMP sabot, with 2 Pyrodex 50gr pellets, with this bullet in my Austin Halleck inline. It was amazing, 1 1/2in groups at 100yds, the penatration is also amazing. I plan on using it if I ever get back home to Alaska on moose.

grayghost
10-04-2006, 08:28 AM
Is it preferable to use only sabots in a .50 inline? I have an Austin/Halleck and was considering using just a bullet, not the sabot. Maybe you guys can shed light on this? Thanks, grayghost

Rifle
10-04-2006, 10:53 PM
Is it preferable to use only sabots in a .50 inline? I have an Austin/Halleck and was considering using just a bullet, not the sabot. Maybe you guys can shed light on this? Thanks, grayghost
With the sabots and especially in conjunction with the Barnes ramrod tip designed for loading the bullets straight the edge goes to saboted bullets. Just because they load straighter. If a person can load a plain lead (no sabot) slug straight then it will usually shoot straight from a gun with the shallow grooved fast twist rifling. Hollow based bullets can work well without the sabots as long as the skirt isn't too thin for the powder charge.