I am new to reloading and have a MEC 9000G. I believe I understand all the components, but wanted to make sure. I have reviewed several guides and understand that I have to match my shot size, hull type/size, powder type, wad type, and primer type to determine what size bushing to use. Is there anything more that I need to be worried about. This seems to easy.

By the way, I am using AA hulls, WAA-12 wads, federal primers, 7.5 shot. Any help or education you can send my way is greatly appreciated.

I apologize in advance to those who find my question very elementary, but like I said, I am just getting started.

Looks like you got it! Double AA's are the way to go-many reloadings. Now just pick powder and charge weight and have at it. Shot shells are not rocket science. You have to really screw up to hurt yourself!

Welcome.... you'll find that shotshell reloading is fairly simple. Just carefully go through the steps (don't try to set any speed records), and as long as you are following the published recipes EXACTLY you should not have any trouble.

Just don't substitute components for what is listed, unless you find other published data verifying the new combination.

MEC reloaders tend to work pretty good - watch the primer feed - as long as the powder measure isn't leaking.

Thanks for the information.

I am using Clays powder and have started reloading based on the recipes I have from the Hodgen book.

You mentioned that a MEC reloader works pretty well. Is there another brand that is more preferred?

All excellent answers! Get a set of powder scales and check what those powder bushings are dropping, especially with fast burn powders!........James

I would make a suggestion that when you first start loading you set the press up to load only one shell at a time. That way you get to see how each station works and you will get into a smooth process a little faster. I would also put a baking pan under the press for a while as you are bound to have some "oops". It is easier to catch the shot in a pan than chasing them all over the house. Also keep an eye on the primer feed making sure it drops a primer and it is dropped the correct way. I think the biggest problems I have had with my 9000 has been the prime station. Best of luck with your reloading and you have a great press.

Check the charge bar latch spring before you load the press with primers, powder and shot. This is part #670B and item 29 in the manual I have. It operates the latch or bar lock, #670A. If it's not working, you will have a powder & shot spill. Take an empty shell and run it through stations 1, 2 and 3. No powder or shot yet, remember. The charge bar should move to the right as you raise the handle with the shell in station 2. Move the shell to station 3. The charge bar should latch at the bottom of the stroke, unless there is another shell in station 2. Don't run an empty shell into stations 4, 5 or 6 or you'll be digging out the crimp.

Half a tall bottle of shot loads over 100 shells. If that's all you're reloading, don't overload the shot bottle. They have been known to break at the neck. When you're turning the shot bottle on or off, keep a finger in the red plastic plug. New ones are tight, but an old one can fall out and give you a super shot spill. How do I know?

Use that powder scale. Most flake powders need about 5 drops before the charge stabilizes.

Watch the primer drop.

Have fun
Jack

Jack's advise is spot-on. I've also used a Hornday Apex, but the Mec was faster and did a better job resizing case heads.

The Apex is a LOT less likely to spill shot/powder everywhere, in my experience.....

I don't think you are going to have problems.

There are 2 types of Win AA hulls and they require different wads. The old compression formed hulls work well with the WAA12 wads, but the WAA12 wads can cause problems (such as hull buckling) with the new 2-piece Win AA hulls. Some of the newer 2-piece hulls are labeled differently, but older "new" 2-piece hulls have similar markings to the old compression formed hulls. If you look inside of the hull the new ones have a ridge about 3/4 inch from the base whereas the old ones are smooth inside to the base. Both come in red and grey colors. The grey color is slightly darker on the new style

This change was IMO a major mistake by Winchester. They once had what was one of the best competition shotshells. Since the change I (and several other shooters I know who previously favored the Win AA shells) have completely stopped buying Winchester AA shells and have switched to Remington's STS which have compression hulls equalor better than the shells with the old style compression formed Win AA hulls. Prior to the change of hull design, Winchester changed the plastic used in the AA hulls and many split (often completely down the side) after only a few reloadings - some after the initial firing of the factory loading.

I still have a supply of a few thousand old style compression formed Win AA hulls that I plan to continue reloading until the case mouths split too badly for the shot not to leak out.

Don't overtighten the powder bottle. It can drag on the charge bar enough to hold it against the return spring, particularly if you have both the rubber and the brass washer under it. Back it off a bit, about 1/16th turn from tight. You don't need a rubber washer under the shot bottle with the new charge bars that have the rubber insert. A washer seems to help with the old bars that don't have an insert.

I use Remington shells for clays and Federals for hunting, mostly because I've got lots of both and it's easy to grab the right box that way..

Bye
Jack