shameless to say I have now exerienced a "locked-up" screw. I did late last night the carnuba wax, waxed the bolt and the receiver hole real good. I now look at it and realize the only thing I don't recall doing is running the bolt in and back out and then in again. Just ran it in and set the rifle down and called it a day.

What a surprse this morning, got up and went to the rifle, did not even make a pot of coffee and began taking the action screws off and to come across that rear tang screw - what a surprize! :eek:

I thought of 2 possibilites, one to throw it in the big freezer and two is to heat the head of the screw as that would transfer the heat down the bolt and in theory that should loosen its hold.

The full length bedding process worked out really fine, without a hitch along with the recoil lug. Pondered the need of doing the rear tang area for a 1/2 hour or so and went ahead and did it.

Any ideas? This is my 2nd rifle thus far bedding, should of been expected.

If this is locked up from a glassbed job heat is the best. heat a bolt the same sized or slightly smaller red hot with a torch and (using a pair of vice grips) hold the hot end to the head of the action screw. The heat will (pop) the screw loose from the glass. It might take more than once.

Clamp the rifle upside down in a padded vice and use one of the scredriver bit holders that you hit with a hammer to loosen screws. Most auto parts stores or motorcycle shops have thes for around $20.00 to loosen frozen screws. Keeps you from buggering the screw heads.

I've had guys bring guns into the shop that they've glass bedded and glued the action into the stock. Sometimes used a propane torch on the barrel and heating the barrel up enough to pop them loose. Sometimes had to resort to an axe.

UM...

What rifle?

I think you are saying that, while bedding the action to the stock, you've also bedded one of the action scews?

Sorry I can't offer any help.. But if you clarify these points I'm sure someone helpfull will come along

best o luck
nate

Winchester Model 70 Classic Featherweight-bedded the rear tang area. I dressed the contact areas with wax and rear receiver hole and the bolt. Worked the Marine-Tex down into the pillar hol to make a "poor" mans pillar. As mentioned I now realize I did not work the bolt back out and then back in. Wonder if that is the problem.

Winchester Model 70 Classic Featherweight-bedded the rear tang area. I dressed the contact areas with wax and rear receiver hole and the bolt. Worked the Marine-Tex down into the pillar hol to make a "poor" mans pillar. As mentioned I now realize I did not work the bolt back out and then back in. Wonder if that is the problem.

Even working the bolt back out and in won't help if you didn't coat the bolt with some kind of a release agent. Might also have gotten some of the epoxy in the threads. You probably would be able to see some ooze around the threads if that is so. Heat is the only thing that I've found that works.

Piller bedding with any epoxy compound (which I do on all my glassbed jobs) should be done in two steps. Drill out the action hole to 1/2 inch from the top side of the action and bed half.

When that is done and cured turn the stock over and do the 1/2 drill out job til you hit the new epoxy you did the day before. Bed in the floorplate. Do both action screws from the top first then both from the bottom in a second step.

This gives a great piller bed without using a steel or aluminum piller bedding block. Most glass beds have from two to three times the strength of a steel piller anyway.

I've never used the marine tex. Always used accra-glass from Brownells, but have fixed a bunch of locked in guns with a variety of different epoxy beddings.

faucettb,

that 2 part seems ideal as with the 1/2" drill bit. I did not do that as I observed that the existing hole seemed to accomedate the epoxy and I thought perhaps that is ample strength.

I am certain I did enough of the release "agent" and that is what puzzles me. Did I? I will do the heating and expect to be patient.

thanks,

faucettb,

that 2 part seems ideal as with the 1/2" drill bit. I did not do that as I observed that the existing hole seemed to accomedate the epoxy and I thought perhaps that is ample strength.

I am certain I did enough of the release "agent" and that is what puzzles me. Did I? I will do the heating and expect to be patient.

thanks,

I never use a drill bit, just to much chance to tear up a stock if you slip. I use a dremel moto tool with a wood cutting bit and just do it a little at a time. I like to leave some rough edges inside the approximate 1/2 inch hole to give the epoxy a little more bite.

If I'm doing a gun thats going to see some use on a horse I do use a 1/2 inch long shank drill and drill a 1/2 inch hole from the back of the action 12 inches deep thru the grip into the buttstock.

I fill this 1/2 or so full of epoxy then stuff a 3/8 inch steel rod or threaded stock into it so it comes flush with the action. Be sure there is epoxy all the way from the bottom of the hole to the top.

I've had a horse roll on a gun bedded like this and after pushing the stock straight and putting some tape around the broken part the fella went on and got his elk. Nothing worse than ending up on a four grand elk hunt with a 300 magnum pistol.

Nothing worse than ending up on a four grand elk hunt with a 300 magnum pistol.

a 300 mag. pistol- that is a funny looking picture. Just gathered my rarely used impact screwdriver and worked down the width of the bit to fit exactly the slot of the action screw. Much to my delight the impact worked just fine with min. impacting. So it must of "gripped" an area with little release agent along the screw. Possibly the threaded area as I tryed to scrub off the factory red silicone of some sort last night and made note of that being a possible lock and just applied liberally the carnuba wax.

Now a for releasing agents. I have not tried anything but this type-it works quite well.

The rear tang area and the "poor" mans pillar looks pretty good. How much that is for strength down the road who knows but yet still better than the existing condition. No doubt your method of a 1/2" hole is **** for stout. I'll keep that in mind next time I do another.

I have my sons Ruger MKII full stocker that is cracked in behind the rear tang area-from shooting a 200grnr. If I may how does bedding a Ruger comare to othe bolt actions?

Might be something for another thread but may as well ask- don't hurt.

thanks a bunch.

a 300 mag. pistol- that is a funny looking picture. Just gathered my rarely used impact screwdriver and worked down the width of the bit to fit exactly the slot of the action screw. Much to my delight the impact worked just fine with min. impacting. So it must of "gripped" an area with little release agent along the screw. Possibly the threaded area as I tryed to scrub off the factory red silicone of some sort last night and made note of that being a possible lock and just applied liberally the carnuba wax.

Now a for releasing agents. I have not tried anything but this type-it works quite well.

The rear tang area and the "poor" mans pillar looks pretty good. How much that is for strength down the road who knows but yet still better than the existing condition. No doubt your method of a 1/2" hole is **** for stout. I'll keep that in mind next time I do another.

I have my sons Ruger MKII full stocker that is cracked in behind the rear tang area-from shooting a 200grnr. If I may how does bedding a Ruger comare to othe bolt actions?

Might be something for another thread but may as well ask- don't hurt.

thanks a bunch.


Bedding Ruger 77's with the canted/slanted front action screw can be a pain in the neck, but it can be done. I'd do it in steps which is the way I always do anyway.

Bed the recoil lug and the first two or three inches of the barrel first. Bed in the action and (on non Rugers) the top half of the action screws. On a ruger with the slanted front action screw bed that part as a seperate step. Leave some wood sticking up to support the action. Usually 1/4 to 3/8 inch squares ever one to one and a half inches is enough support.

You only have to turn the action screws tight enough to suck the action down into the stock where it originally sat. I like to put some blue masking tape along the edged of the stock so the glassbed that will ooze out goes on the tape instead of the stock. It makes clean up easier.

Turn the gun over and bed in the floor plate. I do the glassbed/pillerbed as I'm bedding in the action the do the other half when I bed in the floor plate. Leave some wood sticking up to support the floor plate as above.

I like to remove the trigger and put in modeling clay where I don't want bedding material. Modeling clay can be sprayed or coated with release compound as needed. Be sure and coat the action bolts and threads. I also look for any places on the action that could be locked in by the epoxy and fill that with modeling clay.

If your going to free float the barrel simply wrap a couple of layers of black electricians tape around it and coat it with release agent. I used to cut three long curfs with a radial saw in the forend and bleed these cuts into the recoil lug. When glass bedded this can be a big help to keep a forend from warping. Using a 1/8 inch blade make the cuts about 3/4 inch deep.

bob from Idaho,

Where I am from we say Mahsii' cho-big thankyou!

regards,