I just acquired a Mauser 98 1909 Arg. for a tidy sum. Have read nothing but good about these. The next rifle in my alaskan arsenal will be the .375 Ruger.

Chic Worthing sold me a project action that had some surface grinding and a new bolt that needs more work. Looks pretty darn good. Will most likely send it to Stuart Satterlee. Was looking for a VZ24 initially.

What is the opinion of those that have and have not heatreated their mausers shooting high pressure rounds? Setback would definately set me back on this action. Is this a sound doctrine to follow with these soft lugs? Soft is not perhaps the correct term as many are still in service shooting high press. like the .375 HH or the .458 even the .338 mag not to mention a host of other various caliber that are in the 52,000psi range or so.

Any recommendations?
thanks,

Griz -

If going to the expense of having an action blue printed and made up into any rifle chambering a cartridge developing in excess of 50K pressure, would certainly go ahead on the safety side and have it heat treated if the 'smith has the ability to do it.

Should make up into a fine project gun. Have a 1908 Brazilian M98 which presently is in 6.5-06 chambering and really like it. The action was blue printed, but not re-heat treated.

seen a 1908 going for 275.00 and a pic, pretty nice. essentially the same action. understand made in the same plant.

thanks,

Was the reciever annealed? If the reciever was not ground to deeply it may not need heat treating. All 98 mauser actions were hardened and tempered at the time of manufacture.

Before we start moveing carbon and structure check the hardness now and know where you want to go with it.

I've been shooting a 7MM STW for several years. I built it on a 98 action. Since I didn't anneal it I didn't have to reharden it.

You will probably warp the action when you heat treat it. Actions should be heat treated before the final machining is done. The more cuts, and complicated parts tend to crack and warp when quenched. I don't know what type of steel the action is, but the quench copuld be water, brine opil or air. Given the age, I would guess oil.

It you have any concerns, a more modern action might be a good idea.
Greg

I would suggest at least haveing them hardness tested. If more than .010" has been removed reheat treat should be considered. Blanchard Metal Processing out of Salt Lake City has a good reputation.