I'm a novice shooter. I'd like to do a lot more shooting than I do now, but it can get expensive. My main pistol is the .40 Beretta Px4 Storm (received as a gift).

For the time being I just want to become familiar with my pistol, which means I want to spend a lot of time at the range.

I have heard conflicting stories regarding Wolf ammo - it smells bad, is inconsistent (not that it matters to me at this point), etc., etc. Others have said that it's good practice ammo and that they've had no problems.

The main thing I'm interested in is whether or not the ammo will do long term damage to my barrel. I can't see that it could given that the bullets are (apparently) copper jacketed, but I'm obviously no expert.

What I would like are opinions (both positive and negative) from those who have used Wolf ammo.

Thanks in advance!!

I'm a novice shooter. I'd like to do a lot more shooting than I do now, but it can get expensive. My main pistol is the .40 Beretta Px4 Storm (received as a gift).

For the time being I just want to become familiar with my pistol, which means I want to spend a lot of time at the range.

I have heard conflicting stories regarding Wolf ammo - it smells bad, is inconsistent (not that it matters to me at this point), etc., etc. Others have said that it's good practice ammo and that they've had no problems.

The main thing I'm interested in is whether or not the ammo will do long term damage to my barrel. I can't see that it could given that the bullets are (apparently) copper jacketed, but I'm obviously no expert.

What I would like are opinions (both positive and negative) from those who have used Wolf ammo.

Thanks in advance!!

I think there might be issues with regard to lacquered steel rifle caliber cases when mixed with brass cased ammo. The Kel-Tec user's group has experienced some issues when mixing ammo.

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi

You also might want to check out AR15.com to see what they say.

http://ar15.com/

Personally, I won't touch the stuff.

9mm wolf works pretty good in my Beretta 92FS.

Mind you it will stink like nasty booty, and its not the cleanest ammo in the world, but the stuff is reliable as all getout. Haven't ever had a problem of one not lighting off. I have burned through about 2500 rounds of the stuff through that 92 and still going strong.

And it is EXACTLY what you think it is...practice ammo...the 9mm is actually quite consistent...holds good groups and the flyers are my fault generally.

D

Many thanks to Cookie and BlackhawkFan. I appreciate your input.

Have shot a lot of Wolf 7.62x39 and 308 with no problems. It does smell funny and it stays with you for a while after you leave the range.

My main pistol is the .40 Beretta Px4 Storm (received as a gift). I have heard conflicting stories regarding Wolf ammo - it smells bad, is inconsistent (not that it matters to me at this point), etc., etc. The main thing I'm interested in is whether or not the ammo will do long term damage to my barrel. I can't see that it could given that the bullets are (apparently) copper jacketed, but I'm obviously no expert.What I would like are opinions (both positive and negative) from those who have used Wolf ammo.

Recall an article in the Rifleman that stated that a 1911 match grade barrel will only begin to show wear from jacketed bullets after about 15K rounds. It would take most shooters a long time to reach that point. If this will be an issue with you it may prove prudent to invest in a spare barrel which will at least double the lifespan of your gun.

Wolf brand or any other jacketed ammunition, the greatest short term accuracy effecting problem that you will face is the accumulation of copper jacket material adhering to the bore. Proper cleaning of the barrel should alleviate that.

The Rifleman article also stated that barrel wear using lead bullets was unmeasureable after firing the same amount of ammunition.

This introduces the suggestion to start reloading your own ammunition using lead bullets. Most reloading companies have starter kits which will provide the basic tools at an affordable price. Also, lead bullets are available from bullet manufacturers or from gunshops in your local area. The savings from reloading will provide you with more affordable, and just as accurate, ammunition to practice with. This is the path many of us have taken in order to get more bang for the buck. Hope this helps answer your question.

I don't know anyone who shoots Wolf for any reason other than that it is cheap. I think I'd be more concerned with chamber wear from the steel cases than bore wear. That and the chamber gumming up from the lacquer. But it is cheap and if it does eventually cause a wear problem one has probably saved enough on ammo to pay for a new barrel.
I used to cast a lot of bullets back in the 60's but now one can buy about any sort of bullet pre-cast, lubed and sized for so little I just don't find it worthwhile anymore. Plus you can buy jacketed bulets in bulk for not much more than cast and I don't enjoy cleaning lead out of my revolvers which seem to lead no mater what cast or swaged lead bullet I may run.

The only Wolf ammo I shoot is the 7.62x39 stuff in my AK & SKS in which it functions great and shoots as well as can be expected,plinking ammo. I tried the .223 in an AR and got misfeeds at the rate of at least 2-3 per 30 rd mag. They don't use the laquer coating anymore,switched to a real slick polymer type coating a couple years back and there doesn't seem to be any problems with it as far as flaking and/or gumming up chambers.

Many thanks to all who have taken the time to reply. I really appreciate the input.

As with just about everything, it sounds like there are tradeoffs in any decision.

Regarding the chamber wear issue, will the Wolf polymer coating negate the effects of a steel casing?

I don't think you'll have to worry much about chamber wear with steel cased pistol ammo. It won't make that much difference if they're lacquer coated or plastic coated either. Feeding reliability, however, may not be as good as with brass cases, particularly as your round count goes up. IMO.

I haven't tried Wolf ammo in 40S&W, but I didn't like it in 9mm or 45ACP. If you have to shoot non-brass cased ammo, the CCI Blazer has always worked a lot better in my guns. I'd suggest trying it instead of Wolf.

Having said that, however, I think you'd be better off buying one box each of Remington UMC, Winchester USA, Federal American Eagle, or even Sellier & Bellot, and trying those to see what shoots the best in your gun. Pick the one that shoots the best, and keep buying that brand. Save all the brass, and start loading your own as soon as you can.

The brass cases are the most expensive reloading component, but can be reused many times. The empty steel cases just go in the trash, which is where they belong. If you look at the cost per round, there's probably only a few pennies difference in cost between the price of steel cased ammo versus brass cased ammo. It will be much more cost efficient in the long run to buy reloadable ammo, and save your brass for future reloading. IMHO.

It looks like reloading is probably the best route to go in the long run.

I've read a little about it, and it seems that you can reload for about 50% of the cost of new ammo.

I may give that a shot!!


Thanks.

The brass cases are the most expensive reloading component, but can be reused many times. The empty steel cases just go in the trash, which is where they belong. If you look at the cost per round, there's probably only a few pennies difference in cost between the price of steel cased ammo versus brass cased ammo. It will be much more cost efficient in the long run to buy reloadable ammo, and save your brass for future reloading. IMHO.

That's why I quit using Wolf and Blazer. When you figure in the value of the once fired brass you get from WWB or UMC the non reloadable ammo comes out more expensive. Even if you don't reload selling the brass could bring you out ahead.