A couple of years ago, there was quite a bit of interest in these products and their effectiveness.

The general concensus was that SharpShooter Wipe Out was very effective and the other products in this line left something to be desired.

I've been a dedicated user of this product since it was offered, at the time only direct from the manufacturer - wasn't sold by mail order or sporting goods stores. It has always performed great in removing the copper fouling from the bore without a lot of scrubbing and brushing. The accompanying "Accelerator" product also marketed was of dubious help, IMO.

Now, Gunslick is offering a similar product which I have found to work equally well. The best thing is the economics.

Wipe Out comes in a 5 oz can and sells for around $10 each.

Gunslick comes in a 12 oz. can and sells for about $8.50.
It also comes with a provided swiveling spout with a length of clear plastic tubing attached where you can insert into either muzzle or chamber.

I still use bore guides for applying either the Wipe Out (have modified a drinking straw of the hospital flexible type with a tapered bushing to fit the back end of the bore guide) or the Gunslick tubing. When the couple of cans of Wipe Out are gone from personal inventory, think I'll stick with the Gunslick and put the savings toward more reloading components! :D

A couple of years ago, there was quite a bit of interest in these products and their effectiveness.

The general concensus was that SharpShooter Wipe Out was very effective and the other products in this line left something to be desired.

I've been a dedicated user of this product since it was offered, at the time only direct from the manufacturer - wasn't sold by mail order or sporting goods stores. It has always performed great in removing the copper fouling from the bore without a lot of scrubbing and brushing. The accompanying "Accelerator" product also marketed was of dubious help, IMO.

Now, Gunslick is offering a similar product which I have found to work equally well. The best thing is the economics.

Wipe Out comes in a 5 oz can and sells for around $10 each.

Gunslick comes in a 12 oz. can and sells for about $8.50.
It also comes with a provided swiveling spout with a length of clear plastic tubing attached where you can insert into either muzzle or chamber.

I still use bore guides for applying either the Wipe Out (have modified a drinking straw of the hospital flexible type with a tapered bushing to fit the back end of the bore guide) or the Gunslick tubing. When the couple of cans of Wipe Out are gone from personal inventory, think I'll stick with the Gunslick and put the savings toward more reloading components! :D

I just used the gunslick product for the first time a few days ago. It was on a 338 win mag I'd been shooting with BArnes TXS bullets (renowned for heavy copper fouling). After waiting the recommended 15 minutes the amount of blue goop I pushed out of that bore was amazing - never seen anything like it. The only process I've found even close to as effective was my home-made reverse electrolysis system (same principle as the outers system available for around $100, but mine cost about $5). The gunslick method was a lot less messing around, and the results were just about as good as anyone could want. I'm a convert!

I have a Browning Gun Cleaner which I use once in a while. It is "...a foaming,cleaning solvent which cleans and evaporates quicklywhile leaving nothing behind." First time I used it the little red tube was shot into the barrel. If I don't hold it with my other hand, it does it all the time. I think the directions on the can are for some other product. But it cleans

I'm going to go the other way. I think that the foam stuff "might be harmful?" I prefer the patience and persistance method. "Might be" is key here! Example in my mind is a 6mm. Remington. It takes most of a week to clean with brushes,patches, and solvent. My "other way" is to plug the bore and fill er up! It takes about the same amount of time with less work.
Hoppe's #9 works well here! Ed's Red too!
It still takes near a week to get it clean to "my standards".

Cheezywan

Me too!

It takes just at a solid week of cleaning, even with the foam cleaners, to get the bores to where they don't have the slightest green or gray/black stain to a patch after the Hoppe's #9 has been left in the bore for a 24 hr period.

I used to use the Foaming Bore Cleaner, to always clean my firearms, now, I use Hoppe's No, 9 and Barnes CR-10, but, if they don't do it, out comes the foam, the foam has become too messy for me to really mess with, anymore. But, it cuts copper, like you wouldn't believe, especially with high velocity magnums, which is what I mainly use.

My copper solvent is household ammonia and Shooter's Choice or Hoppes. Half and half.
I make sure that this emulsion is removed afterwards by thoroughly scubbing out with either Hoppes or Shooters Choice.

I find that applying the mixture with a soaked patch and letting it stand in the barrel for 15 minutes works very well.
I rotate the barrel so that bottom is at various points in the process. Two applications usually removes all copper.

Cheers

I'm trying the gunslick on your recommendation. I am still getting blue even after I use a brush with Butch's bore shine.I used this foam in a (clean) barrel and the patch came out blue, next patch came out clean and blueless. I like this stuff. Thank-you k-dub. Q

I have used Faoming Bore Cleaner on a couple of customers guns - because they looked as if they never were cleaned.

That stuff works! Period.

Your problems are that you are still thinking in 1950's terms.

Back in the days of lead bullets you had to keep the bore clean because if you mixxed lead bullets with copper jacket bullets - it would foul the bore.

Now a days with all the bullets in a rifle being copper with the exception of a 22 - there is no need to keep the bore that clean.

In fact if you clean it too well you run the risk of rust.

A clean bore with a little copper foul is not a bad thing. For accuracy - it is better than a clean bore because it fills in all the little microscopic groves and cracks and marks in the barrel left after it was rifled.

Taking the foul out of the barrel actually makes it wear faster and also reduces accuracy for about the first 2 - 5 shots before you re establish the foul in the barrel again.

INow a days with all the bullets in a rifle being copper with the exception of a 22 - there is no need to keep the bore that clean.

Uh... In case you didn't notice, this board is part of Beartooth Bullets - a cast lead alloy bullet company. The bullets are designed to be used in all types rifles, not just .22's.

Just thought we'd let you know... ;)

Ok,

I apologize here for my ignorance.

I just thought that this was a shooters forum.

I don't have anything against lead bullets or anyone that shoots them.

There is nothing wrong with lead bullets and as long as you keep the velocities down, lead fouling is not that big of a deal.

If the war in Iraq continues, we will all be shooting lead bullets pretty soon anyways because of the escalating cost of copper

Discussing all ammunition and firearms uses is fine. You are correct that this is a shooters forum. Just wanted to make sure that we all understand that lead bullets are not only regulated to plinking and .22's. Hardcast lead bullets have taken the largest animals and most dangerous game animals on the planet.

Many here use Bearth Bullets and other high quality cast to routinely and efficiently take large game animals with certainty.

PLEASE HELP

I just baught this for my semi auto wasr10 ak style rifle.
When I got this product it says that its NOT recommended for gas operated automatics. Whats the problem? Can this do harm to my rifle.. I got this off midwayusa.com so I did not see this statement ahead of time.

Someone please post asap.

OK...............

What product did you buy, Jackal?