OK. Handloading sounds like fun. How much is initial cost for a complete set up from scratch? Not a production machine a 1 at a time kinda thing.

I ask cause it seems like a fun and relaxing thing to do. I would be doing probably, 44 mag, 30 carbine and 30-06.

Thanks

Reloading is a worthwhile hobby and it is possible to get started without taking out a second mortgage. My recommendation would be to get a reloading manual from Hornady, Lyman, Sierra or Speer. Lyman is probably the best if only one is selected. Read the manual and get an understanding of the reloading process because reloading manuals contain a wealth of information.

There are reloading kits offered by the large outdoor stores that have just about everything you might need at a reasonable cost. They usually contain a press, powder scale, chamfer and deburring tool, case lube and pad and a few other accessories. Lee makes a great case trimmer in various calibers for a few bucks. They also have a delightful priming tool.

It may be possible to find excellent used reloading equipment in local gun shops. Earlier this year I bought a mint used RCBS RockChucker press for $40. The shop also had used dies for $8 a set and you will will dies for each caliber you intend to reload along with an appropriate shell holder. Finally, you will need primers,cases,powder and bullets.

Other folks may have additional thoughts and solid advice. This will get you started. Hope this helps. All the best...
Gil

What Gil says is true. If you do the research a complete reloading setup can be had for less moneys than buying new.
Ebay is my good source for car parts and reloading equipment. Many good buys can be had there, just do the research first before buying. Start by reading reloaders digest, Lyman reloaders guide. Of course you will not save any money in reloading BUT will be spending more time at the range shooting. Good Luck TF

Here is my pretty much stock answer to someone wanting to get into reloading.

this is the advice I give all new reloaders. As you can see I'm a Lee fan. I've had a bunch of different equipment over the last 45 years of reloading. All of the major reloading equipment manufactures make good equipment, just most of it is pretty expensive.

This list gets you into reloading at a very reasonable price and this same equipment has set on my bench now for the last 15 years and is still going. With that said I would rather put the hundreds of dollars difference in equipment costs into guns or reloading components.

Reloading is really as simple as dirt.

1. Resize and deprime an empty case
2. put in a primer
3. Put in The powder
4. Put in a bullet

There are some small steps to each one of the above, but that is the basics of reloading and it is really that simple.

You can buy a Lee anniversery kit with a loading manual for around a hundred dollars. That and dies for your calibers is about all you need to get started. If you want to move on to more expensive equipment you can, though I've been using the Lee stuff now for about 15 years and it is as good as the most expensive on the market. If it is not your cup of tea your not out much dollars.

I've been doing this for 45 years and it won't save you any money. What it does do is

1. allow you to shoot a lot more for the same money
2. Tailor your loads for your guns.
3. Let you make more accurate ammo than most factory ammo.

Look in Cabalas catalog, Midway's or their web sites for books or dvd's on reloading. They both have several that lets you watch and get a better idea than reading about it. Buy a couple of good reloading manuals and read about it. Lee, Lyman, Spear, RCBS and Sierra all are good ones.

This is a great hobby in itself and after thousands and thousands of reloads I am a much better shooter than I possibly could have been trying to shoot with factory ammo.

It's a very rare occasion that any of my guns ever see a factory round. These are the rounds I load for now.

243 Winchester
280 Remington
308 Winchester
8mm Remington Mag
41 Remington Mag
44 Remington Mag

For my hunting buddy
270 Winchester
7mm Remington Mag
45 Long Colt

The following equipment will get you started with the minimal amount of money and give you good solid long lasting equipment. I’ve been using this set for 15 years with great results, which by the way costs less than just the RCBS press which I have too.

You will need cases, powder, bullets and primers to be ready to go.

This is all out of the Midway on line catalog.

Total cost would be $144.44 plus shipping and with the addition of other die sets you can reload any metallic cartridges.

Sierra "Introduction to Rifle Reloading" Video VHS
Host David Tubb guides the handloader from basic to advanced reloading. Using hands on examples and high tech computer graphics, this tape provides an in-depth look at how to reload. Topics covered include safety, reloading philosophy, components, equipment and testing. 120 Minutes. VHS.

Product #: 474935
Manufacturer #: 0095
Our Price: $26.99

Lee Anniversary Reloading Kit with "Modern Reloading" Manual Add a set of dies to this kit and you'll have all the equipment needed to reload virtually any cartridge. This convenient package is built around the sturdy Lee Challenger Single Stage Press. With its compound leverage, rugged cast aluminum "O" frame design and 4-1/4" of clearance, it is more than able to reload even the largest cartridges. For powder handling, the Lee Safety Scale, Perfect Powder Measure and Powder Funnel are included. The kit also contains the Lee Auto-Prime, a set of 11 Auto-Prime Shellholders, Lee Chamfer Tool, Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner, a 2 oz Tube of Lee Resizing Case Lube and Lee Cutter and Lock Stud (Case Length Gauge and Shellholder sold separately). This kit also includes the popular "Modern Reloading" manual. All Lee products come with a Two Year Warranty.

Product #: 820810
Manufacturer #: 90962
Our Price: $78.99

Lee Deluxe Rifle 3-Die Set
This set includes the collet neck sizing die, full length sizing die and the bullet seating die. The collet neck sizing die will allow you to produce ammunition that is fire-formed to the chamber of one rifle. Use the full length sizing die to produce ammunition to factory-new specifications using cases fired in other guns. Shellholder, powder measure, storage box and load data included.

Product #: 148525
Manufacturer #: 90614
Our Price: $24.89

Lee Cutter and Lock Stud

Use with the Lee Case Length Gauge and Shellholder (Sold Separately). One Lee Cutter and Lock Stud may be used with several Case Length Gauge and Shellholders. May be used by hand or with an electric drill.

Product #: 476992
Manufacturer #: 90110
Our Price: $4.39

Lee Case Length Gauge and Shellholder 308 Winchester
A precise and easy way to trim to length and square the case mouth. Requires a Lee Cutter and Lock Stud or Lee Cutter with Ball Grip to function.

Our Price: $3.19
Product #: 271467
Manufacturer #: 90139

Frankford Arsenal 50-Round Perfect Fit Reloading Tray #5 Blue (486 Hole Diameter)

Superior to the generic, "one size fits all" reloading trays on the market, Frankford Arsenal offers 12 different trays, each sized to a particular family of cartridges from 25 ACP to 500 Nitro. The stackable Perfect Fit Reloading Trays are made of a lightweight composite material that will not break down from case lubes, solvents and other chemicals, providing years of service to the reloader. Trays hold 50 rounds except #9, which holds 45 rounds. Easily cleanable with warm water and mild detergent. For a perfect fit, see the application chart in our Master Catalog, check our website or contact us.

Product #: 536734
Manufacturer #: 844786
$5.99

Yes, start reloading!!!

I bought a 260.00 Hornady starter kit from cabelas about 2 years ago, and have been very happy since. You can make your money back within a few months if you shoot alot, especially with your '06 and 44 mag. Reloading is a fun hobby, as long as you stick to the manuals, and be safe. I also recommend reading a 'how to' reloading book before you start. It is very easy, as long as you adhere to the common sense rules.

vanbuzen9

Hiya hazcat. Reloading equipment is a lot like guns. Everyone has their favorite type/brand/shape/size and definately color! That being said, i think most of the reloading companies sell some type of "starter set" or "master kit" that will come with just about everything you need (except dies)

I will agree that the Lyman manual is the best of the bunch as far as manuals go. Look for a good used press if you want to save a bit more cash that one of the "kits" can provide, a good press will probably outlive all of us if well cared for.

Dies cost 20 to 40$ a set, used ones can be had, and like presses will last a lifetime if cared for.

With a used press, dies, and all the other et cetera loading will need, i think you could be started easily for 100 to 200 dollars.

PS minus components that is

Hazcat, you gonna get a lot of responses and a lot of opinions, all good but some will be better than others. Each opinion is fully worth what it costs you!

(OK, YOU GOT FIVE WHILE I WAS TYPING! AND ALL ARE GOOD.)

After some 40+ years of handloading I do have some strong opinions. First is, no brand or color is the "best" for all items, you will do better - or at least I do - with a mix of tools chosen for specific reasons, the least of which is brand loyality. Second, you will have to do your own homework on total cost. Do a web search at MidwayUSA, Midsouth, Natchez, etc. for prices.

My recomendations are based on the best bang for the buck. You should know that NO BRAND makes junk, it's all good but some is easier to use than others and there is little reason to spend a lot of bucks for shiney when dull will make quality ammo.

In no particular order, you will need:

1. Press - Lee "Classic Cast", all iron and steel, inexpensive.
2. Rifle dies - Lee Deluxe, w/both FL and Collet neck sizer.
3. Straight-case dies - Lyman (or Lee Speed Dies, carbide)
4. Shell holders, if you don't get the Lee sets. Brands are interchangeable and equal in value.
5. Case Length Trimmer - Lee (For the -06 at least.)
6. Powder scale - any magneticly damped beam scale. Avoid the Lee and digitals, both types are too much trouble.
7. Powder measure - Redding or Hornady
8. Powder funnel, case block - any will do you well
9. Powder trickler - Redding
10. Manual - Lyman for the most info, Lee for the most loads
11. Dial Caliper, 6" (About $15 from Harbor Freight - when on sale, and they frequently are - and all of the steel reloading type "store" brand calipers are made in the same Chinese shop so why pay more?)

Evaluate all the posts to follow, avoid those who say to "Use XYZ brand, it's all I've ever used and they are the best" or variations of that thought. And, while Customer Service is worth considering you won't much need it if you are a careful worker. There are few times you will ever need it so don't pay twice the value for something just for that potential help sometime in the future. I've made ONE CS call since '65!

Good luck. Enjoy the hobby and lots of shooting!

Alot of the stuff is for making it less labor intensive. You can do it for as little as $50. That includes bullets, powder,and primers for your first 100 rounds.
I think you could get "pretty comfotable" at near $250 for the calibers you posted. Kinda depends on how much you shoot?
The "balance" occurs when you can reload as fast as you shoot?
The problem that you face is striking that balance! The cheaper the ammo, the more you shoot! The more you shoot, the more you must reload! How much time can you spend feeding your guns?

I use a bench mounted single-stage press, powder mesure w/scale, Case trimmer w/calipers, and do quit well at supplying my ammo needs for several rifles and pistols/revolvers.

I enjoy reloading as much as I do shooting! I buy .22 rimfire and shotshells. I can't recall the last centerfire ammo that I've bought :confused: ? Casting your own bullets is fun too :) . It saves money,but takes time.

Good shooting to you sir,

Cheesywan

WOW! This is sounding better and better. If I could get the basic equip for less than say 250.00 that would be cool!

What about powder? There seems to be a BUNCH of different types and I have no idea where to start. Is there a "basic" that would be good to start with?

WOW! This is sounding better and better. If I could get the basic equip for less than say 250.00 that would be cool!

What about powder? There seems to be a BUNCH of different types and I have no idea where to start. Is there a "basic" that would be good to start with?

Powder needs taylord to the cartridges you load. Best thing is to get several reloading manuals and read them. Besides interesting reading on how to reload they give you an insight into which powders work with which bullets and cases best. I personnally like the Lee, but the Lyman and Hornedy and Sierra are all good along with Speer's. I suggest you get a manual from the bullet maker that your going to shoot.

There are several that are free or available on the internent such as Hogdens.

I have no idea where to start. Is there a "basic" that would be good to start with?

Nope! There ain't no "one size fits all" here. Each firearm will/ have it's own preference. Yours are to diverse to suggest just one (other than black, that will work in most/all). Don't go there!
This is where I will suggest a reloading manual from any "well known" source. The bulletmakers are pretty good with data. Most are a "good read" in my view. I "tend" to re-read my own. There is alot of wisdom in there.

Start at the shallow end of the pool. Pay attention to details.
Reloading is about making them "cheaper and more accurate", not finding out "how to blow a gun up!

Handloading is safe and economical. THERE IS DANGER though. Avoid it as best you can. Read a manual.

Cheezywan

Nope! There ain't no "one size fits all" here. Each firearm will/ have it's own preference. Yours are to diverse to suggest just one (other than black, that will work in most/all). Don't go there!
This is where I will suggest a reloading manual from any "well known" source. The bulletmakers are pretty good with data. Most are a "good read" in my view. I "tend" to re-read my own. There is alot of wisdom in there.

Start at the shallow end of the pool. Pay attention to details.
Reloading is about making them "cheaper and more accurate", not finding out "how to blow a gun up!

Handloading is safe and economical. THERE IS DANGER though. Avoid it as best you can. Read a manual.

Cheezywan

ABSOLUTELY! I have zero desire to see how 'fast' i can make a bullet go. I want to be able to shoot more often AND more accurately (with my old eyes most guns are already better than me ;) ).

I am one of those types that likes to 'make it better' not 'make a bigger boom'.

WOW! This is sounding better and better. If I could get the basic equip for less than say 250.00 that would be cool!

What about powder? There seems to be a BUNCH of different types and I have no idea where to start. Is there a "basic" that would be good to start with?


I'll echo what everyone else has said about getting a couple reloading manuals. But to settle your curiosity for now try this link, it is specifically for the 45-70 but will give you some insight into the process of hand loading.

http://www.beartoothbullets.com/tech_notes/archive_tech_notes.htm/49

Hazcat, you gonna get a lot of responses and a lot of opinions, all good but some will be better than others. Each opinion is fully worth what it costs you!

(OK, YOU GOT FIVE WHILE I WAS TYPING! AND ALL ARE GOOD.)

After some 40+ years of handloading I do have some strong opinions. First is, no brand or color is the "best" for all items, you will do better - or at least I do - with a mix of tools chosen for specific reasons, the least of which is brand loyality. Second, you will have to do your own homework on total cost. Do a web search at MidwayUSA, Midsouth, Natchez, etc. for prices.

My recomendations are based on the best bang for the buck. You should know that NO BRAND makes junk, it's all good but some is easier to use than others and there is little reason to spend a lot of bucks for shiney when dull will make quality ammo.

In no particular order, you will need:

1. Press - Lee "Classic Cast", all iron and steel, inexpensive.
2. Rifle dies - Lee Deluxe, w/both FL and Collet neck sizer.
3. Straight-case dies - Lyman (or Lee Speed Dies, carbide)
4. Shell holders, if you don't get the Lee sets. Brands are interchangeable and equal in value.
5. Case Length Trimmer - Lee (For the -06 at least.)
6. Powder scale - any magneticly damped beam scale. Avoid the Lee and digitals, both types are too much trouble.
7. Powder measure - Redding or Hornady
8. Powder funnel, case block - any will do you well
9. Powder trickler - Redding
10. Manual - Lyman for the most info, Lee for the most loads
11. Dial Caliper, 6" (About $15 from Harbor Freight - when on sale, and they frequently are - and all of the steel reloading type "store" brand calipers are made in the same Chinese shop so why pay more?)

Evaluate all the posts to follow, avoid those who say to "Use XYZ brand, it's all I've ever used and they are the best" or variations of that thought. And, while Customer Service is worth considering you won't much need it if you are a careful worker. There are few times you will ever need it so don't pay twice the value for something just for that potential help sometime in the future. I've made ONE CS call since '65!

Good luck. Enjoy the hobby and lots of shooting!

Are dyes pretty much interchangeable? Also after a QUICK look it seems that a 'turret' type would be a bit easier. or is changing 'dyes' between each pull no big deal?

This is my reloading bench. Dies unless for something like the 50 cal machine gun cartridge are all interchangable. I reload at this time several rifle calibers, several revolver cartridges and both 12 and 20 gauge shotshells. (shotshells with Lee's little reloaders) they are on a turntable that just spins the right loader around where I need it.

I also cast, using Lee equipment and molds for both rifle and revolvers.

There's not a lot of money in this bench, but It's put thousands and thousands of rounds downrange.

If you are going to load for the 30-30 be sure to pick up a Cast Bullet manual as well. You can load and shoot cast bullets as cheap as dirt and they are excellent. And these days you can buy cast bullets very reasonably, if you don't want to cast your own.

Heres what I recommend for new guys: The Lee Turret press. It can be used as a single stage if you wish but will allow fairly quick production for pistol ammo that you will use a lot of. To answer your question about the dies: you need a set for each caliber with a few exceptions. I would suggest you start out with the 44 mag. Get the carbide dies and a Lee Factory Crimp die to crimp in a separate operation. Unique powder would be a good place to start. 8.0 grains and a 240/250 grain cast lead bullet makes a great practice load. Light recoil but still lets you know youre shooting a big bore. Probably the best manual to start with is The Lyman. Get it first and read the directions before getting any equipment. Good luck on a fun new hobby.

Hazcat,
welcome to the reloading brotherhood. You'll learn the secret handshake soon too. ;)

Do you have a local used bookstore? Check there for a manual. No more than 15 years out of date as powder formulas change slightly over time and each lab seems to be retesting powders for pressure and changing formulas.

The Lyman manual is good. The Hornady manual is too for answering first timers questions. Sierra and Speer are pretty good, Lee is better once you have an idea what you are doing and looking for recepies to try and find the one your rifle really likes.

I started with a Lee Hand Press due to space and money issues. I now have a single stage and a new Lee Classic Turret bolted to the bench. The Turret could do it all but I like being able to load my rifle ammo on the single stage as I feel it gives me better control. I really like the 4 hole turret on the press for revolver ammo. Fast, effecient, and it makes good ammo. I can load 250 rounds total in two calibers in under an hour. Caliber changes take 2 minutes because I havent gotten a second powder thrower yet mounted on the second turret. Maybe I should. That way I wouldnt be fooling with it. Just set it, mark it and forget it. 5 second caliber changes sound cool. :p

Bob, aka faucettb gave you good advice. So have the other guys.

45-70, 30-06 and 44mag huh? :D Great start! $200 dollars should cover all your tools, then money for components and you are on your way.

One suggestion, IMR 4350 powder for the 30-06. For bullets 165 grains and heavier its the standard and for good reason. ;)

45-70, 30-06 and 44mag huh? :D Great start! $200 dollars should cover all your tools, then money for components and you are on your way.

One suggestion, IMR 4350 powder for the 30-06. For bullets 165 grains and heavier its the standard and for good reason. ;)
Actually it's 30 Carbine, 44 mag and 30-06. All for rifles (44 mag lever gun).

I am pricing Lee equipment now (deluxe turret kit). The 44 (special) comes with a 4 die set but the 30 and 30-06 don't so I guess you have to buy the factory crmp separate?

It's unlikely you'll need a factory crimp die with the .30-06 unless you shot cast.

Bye
Jack

It's unlikely you'll need a factory crimp die with the .30-06 unless you shot cast.

Bye
Jack
So by just seating the bullet it will be tight enough?

----Are dyes pretty much interchangeable? ----

Vertually so. There were some OLD Lyman dies that were different but you can't buy them new anymore. The standard thread is 7/8" (diameter) x 14 (threads per inch) today. I have no personal knowledge of all Dillions dies, it seems that they have a propretary thread AND a common thread design, maybe someone else can confirm or correct me here.

-----Also after a QUICK look it seems that a 'turret' type would be a bit easier. or is changing 'dyes' between each pull no big deal? ----

We don't change dies for each step in loading a cartridge, we "batch" work them through the steps. Mostly.

For the -06, first clean your cases (just wipe them off is really enough at this point) and place them in a loading block base down.

Then size and decap. all of them, recapping them too. Return each to the block, neck down so you can examine them for proper cap seating before moving on.

Place your powder scale at eye level if possible. Adjust its zero point then set the poise weights for the charge you want to use. Pour the powder into the measure and adjust it to drop a charge as close to your target as possible - do several charges and toss them back into the measure until you get it to average (+/- .2-.3 gr.). Flip each cartridge as you charge it and return it to the block. When you finish, weigh the last round to confirm that the charges are consistant. Look into each case and visually check that each powder level appears the same.

Remove the FL die and install the Seating Die. Run your brass thru that stage, seating the bullets and you are done. One die installation for each step, not much changing time involved. I can swap cases faster than I can twist my old turret press from stage to stage so I even use it as a single stage. (There will be more frills later but this is enough to get you going.)

For pistol/straight cases (.30 M1) there will be a third die but the process remains the same, working in batches and only changing the die as you start the next step.

However, I have an old friend who insists on working a single case thru from start to finish before starting on another. He spends a LOT of TIME changing dies and for the life of me I can't understand why he does it. It is a LOT FASTER to remove/replace a case for the next one than it is to replace dies constantly. But he only loads a box or two of 30-30 each year so I guess he doesn't really waste too much time!

Originally Posted by Jack Monteith
It's unlikely you'll need a factory crimp die with the .30-06 unless you shot cast.

Bye
Jack

So by just seating the bullet it will be tight enough?

This is generally a hotly debated subject and I'm NOT looking to start an argument. I'm of the opinion that rifle bullets should be crimped, if for no other reason, you have a consistent step in the reloading process, no ambiguity. Others will tell you it is wasted energy to crimp a rifle hand load that is not in a tubular magazine but consistency is the name of the game for accurate loading.

So by just seating the bullet it will be tight enough?


Yes and no.

Not gonna get off the hook THAT easy. :p
For use in tubular mags you need a crimp. Your bullet seating die should do that as well as seat for your 44 magnum. Many rifle dies crimp as well. My RCBS dies do, as well as my Lee seater dies, unless its the Dead Length Bullet Seater die. That one does not crimp.

The sizing and decapping die will leave the case tight enough so that it will hold without a crimp for the 30-06 or other bottle neck rifle cases. In a heavy recoiling rifle, you may want more crimp than that to avoid the possibility of pushing the bullet back in the case under recoil in the magazine.

In a single shot like the Ruger #1, it doesnt matter. It's a single shot and has no mag to worry about and if that is how you target shoot, loading one at a time, then I wouldn't worry about crimping.

I do however, crimp my hunting ammo.

The Factory Crimp Die runs about $7 1/2 bucks at Midwayusa. Costs nothing extra to ship if you irder one when you order other stuff. Cheap peace of mind if you ask me.

Hornady is the only big outfit that has a crimp groove in most of their bullets that are suitable for the .30-06. Sierra and Speer have a couple and Nosler has none, AFAIK. The case neck will hold the bullet unless your die has an oversized expander ball. Careful you don't swallow too much of Richard Lee's snake oil.

Bye
Jack

When loading for a 44 mag lever gun you will have to pick a bullet that will feed through the action. Most of the jacketed bullets will work ok but some rifles can give you fits. A round nose flat point cast bullet will generally feed also. Check BTB bullets for advice on which is best for your gun. I crimp evrything but match rifle loads in bottle neck cases but you probably dont need a crimp on bottleneck cases except for tube magazines.

Are dyes pretty much interchangeable?

Yes. The standard die threads are 7/8" (diameter) x 14 (threads per inch). I think Dillion may have a die series with different threads but I'm not sure, perhaps someone could confirm this? And Lyman did cut a smaller/finer thread a long ago but those dies haven't been made for decades.

>>>Also after a QUICK look it seems that a 'turret' type would be a bit easier. or is changing 'dyes' between each pull no big deal?

The turret looks better than it is, IMHO. In fact, my first press was a turret for the reasons you suspect but I soon abandoned it for a more rigid single stage press.

Why? Well, few of us load a case from start to finsh before moving to the next. We "batch process" our cases through each step instead, only installing each die once for the full sequence, not putting the dies in and out with each case. With a little practice you can learn to grasp the next case and exchange it for the one in the press in one rapid action. That makes for faster loading than even twisting the turret and making sure it "snapped" in place properly each time.

I find that even with my simple single stage press and by measuring each charge with a plastic spoon into my scale (yeah, hokey i know, but cheap and way easy to use) i can easily meet my loading demands and not spend excessive time reloading, i shoot several hundred rounds a month of 30-06 and 45 Colt, both loader friendly cartridges.

As far as crimping, it is a must in leverguns, those bullets will telescope themselves right into the cases if you dont crimp 'em. In hunting ammo, i once again like some crimp, but for general plinking about with my 30-06, i dont crimp. For my 45s, sometimes i do...sometimes i dont...and it dosent seem to make much difference. My 45s are shot from SAAs, however, in a levergun i would definately crimp them.

Have fun!

I use the lee turret press and I batch load. It makes too much sence to leave my dies mounted in the turret and just excange them rather than screwing them in and out. I don't have to readjust anything when I change calibers! And to help answer the question about powder selection I suggest studying the reloading manual in the caliber of your choice and also the bullet of your choosing, I like to find the powder which most nearly fills the case and also gives near the highest velocity listed in the chart. Then list the powders that would be suitable from best to least, and then go powder shopping. If this sounds confusing It's really not, just that you will not likely find every listed powder at any one supply store. An example would be for the 30-06 with a 165 gr bullet, typically IMR4350, H4350, and H414 would all be among the better choices, and some others which I can't call off the top of my head. H110 is likely the best choice for hunting loads in your 44 mag. A good rule to follow when first starting to reload is to use a powder that nearly fills the case, so that you cannot double charge one. Also never start with a max load, follow the instructions in the manual and you will be a happy reloader, and a safe one.

Midway has the 4-hole Classic Cast Turret Press for only $80. You would also need a couple manuals -- perhaps the ABCs of Reloading and the Lee reloading manual, maybe the Lee deluxe die set with the Factory Crimp Die, Frankford Arsenal digital calipers, the Lee safety prime system, the Lee Pro Auto Disk powder measure (with the double disk kit and the powder measure riser), a chamfer and deburring tool, case length gauge with cutter and lockstud, Lee safety scale with check weight set. You could have a complete setup for less than $300. If I were you I'd go to a local gun shop and buy the ABCs of Reloading or some other beginner's manual before buying the other equipment. Then you'll have a better idea of exactly what you need. I have the Lee Classic Cast Turret Press and I could not be more happy. Good luck!

I don't disagree about the batch process. I did it for years with an old rockchucker for my hunting ammo and used a DIllon progressive for handgun ammo.

I got the Lee turret press earlier this year, and I find I'm not using anything else...and I've twice ordered xtra heads. It's real handy to be able to swap heads.

I'd go w/ the Lee turret.

Looks like the Lee Classic Cast Turret is held in high regard.