Having trouble with 2 of my SA Rugers, every other time I fire them, the recoil spits the cylinder pin out of it's locked position. I replace them back in until the safety pin snaps over, but in a shot or two, it spits it back out. Anybody?

Having trouble with 2 of my SA Rugers, every other time I fire them, the recoil spits the cylinder pin out of it's locked position. I replace them back in until the safety pin snaps over, but in a shot or two, it spits it back out. Anybody?


Have seen replcemnt pins...replacment latches...and extra power latch springs. One or a combination of these would cure the problem. Some calibers are worse about this than others; basically the more recoil the more likely the pin to jump it's latch.

1. Make sure the pin isn't excessively oily.

2. Make sure that the cross-bolt it engaging in the slot on the pin. Sometimes they don't fully engage and this contributes to the problem.

I've experienced both. If it's too sloppy and won't stay put, try Belt Mountain oversized replacement pins.

1. Make sure the pin isn't excessively oily.

2. Make sure that the cross-bolt it engaging in the slot on the pin. Sometimes they don't fully engage and this contributes to the problem.

I've experienced both. If it's too sloppy and won't stay put, try Belt Mountain oversized replacement pins.
Mike, can I assume that if the cross bolt snaps into the locked position, and it springs out, that it is in fact engaged in the pin?

You would think so but not necessarily. Pay attention to how far in the cross bolt snaps, both with the pin in the frame, and without. If it goes in deeper without the pin in the frame, then may not be engaging all the way. Since the slot is rounded, doesn't take much to spring back out. Take it apart and it will make sense.

I have had to file the slot out a little on at least one of my Blackhawks.

I really dont understand why Ruger never fixed this problem. All of my Ruger single actions ended up with this problem. The latch was a copy of the original Colt SAA system which also suffers this same irritation. I have seen brand new guns at the range that had the pin pop out on the first shot. If you look at the engagement you will see that it is very minimal and could be easily improved. My 22lr Single Sixes also popped pins so it cant be just recoil causing the problem. I just routinely replace the pin with a Belt Mountain. Note that on the Freedoom Arms guns they didnt bother trying to make that latch work.

Mike, I have checked the spring retraction with the pin in and out, that part seems to be working fine, must either need to be filed out or replaced. Sounds like it's an easy enough fix with a replacement part from black mountain? The crazy thing is, I have shot tons of magnum loads through these guns and it was never an issue, now that I'm loading bullets down for the kids (4.5 gr Unique) these are the loads that pop the pins every 3rd shot, and the recoil is very minimum, go figure.

Now I have another problem, I shot these loads in my S&W 686 this afternoon, and the firing pin punched holes in the primers, has anyone ever done this? Made it very difficult to rotate the cylinder to the next round.

No idea. I've only had this happen a couple of times, and both causes were identified. Shoot lots of heavy recoiling stuff too.

Well, hope this helps:

http://www.beltmountain.com/

You are too light I think. The primer is backing out at a wrong time and causing your condition. When I first started loading I tried to fire brass in my SBH that was primed but not loaded with powder and bullet and got the cylinder lock up you are talking about.

Hornady 4th Ed. has a good explanation of what happens on firing and I think it will explain why this happens. I won't try. I think you need to inch up on that load a little. I also understand that some powders do not load back well actually causing some pressure problems.

have another problem, I shot these loads in my S&W 686 this afternoon, and the firing pin punched holes in the primers . . .
Smitty,
Does this happen in your Trapper? If yes, suggest try using another brand of primer. If no, problem is related to your 686.

Do the primers back out in your 686 and drag on your recoil shield? If so, might try bumping up your charge by .2 or .3 grains. Check to see if the primers are flush to or slightly below the head of the cartridge case both before and after firing. Make sure you are seating the primers to the bottom of the primer pocket. Your Dillon may need an adjustment to the primer punch. If the primers are not shifting, check the tip of your firing pin for roughness. If you find sharp surfaces, you can polish them out with fine (300 grit) emery paper. Don't overdo the polishing.

Final suggestion would be to change brand of primers.

Had this same problem with punctured primers on my S&W Highway Patrolman and Remington Primers. Primers were not shifting so I had no drag on the cylinder. Found the tip of the firing pin was rough so I polished out the roughness and changed to another brand of primers. Solved the problem.

Part of the flip side of reloading is the need to solve any problems that may come up. It doesn't necessarily mean you are doing anything wrong. It just means that something is incompatible that needs to be worked out.

Hope this helps clear your problem.

Need to make a correctioin to my last post, I had up'd the powder charge on these loads to 12 gr, these are the ones that the firing pin punched through, but the low charge loads shot fine. Could the charge be to much? They shot great, 1.2 inch groups at 25 yards, sand bagged, the problem seems to be the primers get holes punched in them. Thanks for all the suggestions, I am checking into all that.

The maximum load of Unique in a .357 Magnum is 10.0 grains with 110 grain bullets, in both the Alliant and Lyman manuals. Speer only goes to 9.5 grains. If you're shooting heavier bullets you're way too hot.

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/RecipeList.aspx?gauge=&gtypeid=1&title=Pistols%20and%20Revolvers

Bye
Jack

The latch was a copy of the original Colt SAA system which also suffers this same irritation.

Well, almost. The original Colt SAA had its basepin held in place by a screw threaded up diagonally from the front of the frame. That was changed to the spring-loaded latch on the side of the frame at about the same time Colt made the change to their metallurgy for smokeless powder. Still beats a wedge driven through a slot in the pin.

The Old Guy

TOG: Thats true. The Ruger is a copy of the original spring loaded system. Ruger did makes one change on the later models. The pin cant fall out as the ejector rod head will hold it in. The Colt will fall out as will the later Rugers with the long ejector rods. I like Elmer Keiths design on the #5.