I've been viewing this forum here for a while, but this is my first post, hopefully someone can help me...?

I've been wanting to purchase my first "real" handgun (other than my .22) that can be used when I'm out camping, hiking, fishing...

I've been thinking/looking at .357's as they seem the most versatile (can shoot 38's and 357). After looking at quite a few guns (Taurus, S&W, Ruger) I had decided on going with a Ruger GP100 witha 4" barrel.

However, I just came across a used S&W 686 witha 3" barrel for $599. I loved the way it handled and thought it would be easier to carry, but it is about $100 more than I was looking on spending. The guy at the counter indicated it was a good deal (gotta always be leary of that) because it is a performance center version and comes with a hard case and 2 extra sets of grips.

I decided to put the gun on hold, but am hesitant on getting it because I know nothing of what to look out for on used handguns and I'm not sure if it is worth $600. Can anyone lend any advice? I've tried to find a price on the internet, but haven't had any luck. If needed I can get the SN.

Thanks!

600 bucks sounds a bit hi priced as I paid $275 for a used 686 in a gunshop last year. You couldn't go wrong with either the Ruger or the S&W as they are both quality. Chief

First, welcome to the forum. I expect you know the rules, if you've been lurking for a bit.

The Performance Center version should have had some personal attention. That usually results in a better chance of getting both accuracy and smoother operation. You should be able to compare trigger feel in the store.

Inspect a used revolver to be certain nobody has put a ding in the muzzle and that the cylinder chambers are well-centered in the bore when ready to fire. Drag your finger lightly on the cylinder while cocking the hammer to be sure you hear the cylinder lock bolt (little metal tab that comes up through the bottom of the frame) click into its notch in the cylinder before the hammer finishes cocking. If you have to push the cylinder slightly before it clicks in, the timing is off and will need to be corrected.

A 3" gun is handier to carry packing out. It is just enough barrel to keep decent accuracy and velocity consistency. The shorter barrel will give up a little terminal performance, but not enough to matter in most instances. About 7% of velocity and 14% of muzzle energy as compared with a 4" gun using 158 grain bullets in full magnum loads.

I own Rugers. S&W is a good gun just a might pricey.

My opinion? Go with a new Ruger and never look back. They are a work horse.

http://www.davidsonsinc.com/consumers/subsites/inven_product.asp?dealer_id=62832&item=BN34%2DC&instock=all&manufact_combo=Ruger&mod_ser_combo=None&category_combo=None&model=None&g_type=None&act_type=&finish_type=None&calib_combo=357&sight_class_combo=None&price_range=None&left_handed=&youth=&Offset_rec=0&num_rec=50&item_num=

Does anyone remmeber a link to a check out instruction sheet for used revolvers??? I have a copy of it on a disk somewhere but not right handy to post. There are so many little things to look for in a used revolver purchase.

The one time I had a problem was with a Smith M-29-4 that from all outward appearances looked very good and lined up, locked up in the shop nicely, but unlocked and the cylinder rolled backwards under recoil. It went into the shop and the local Smith&Wesson factory service guy worked on it but it never was %100 reliable. I took a $300 hit on it but it went to finance a Ruger #3 I wanted. Oh well, live an learn right?

I'll look for that link for posting.

AH HAH!
Got it.
www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57816

AH HAH!
Got it.
www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57816

Thanks for the feedback everyone - I really appreciate it. I will stop by the store this week to give it a once-over according to the checklist.

One more question - would I be better off with a 4" barrel? I don't plan on doing any hunting with it, so I didn't think having a longer barrel would serve any purpose other than better sight line for shooting at longer distances. I would just shoot it at the local range and carry with me when out in the woods.

I've shot the Charter Bulldogs with 2", 3", and 4" barrels, and also the Dan Wesson. The 2" presented sight problems for me in both guns, but the 3" and 4" did about equally well for my eyes. If one of the two guns you are looking at has significantly more weight, that will help steady you on targets at the range and give you less perceived recoil. The ballistics for the barrels will change as I outlined. The lighter of the two will be easier to pack out and you may find you can point it more quickly. Again, that depends on whether the weight difference is significant.

Open the crane on the 3" 686 and see if it is marked CS-1.

I have one of these, it was made for the US Customs service and was one of the last guns released to the public when traded in. Klinton nixed that program.

Anyway, back to the CS-1. They were made in 3" and 4" versions. They have a .010 wide black front sight, a "frosted" finish on the stainless steel, and are round butted.

The CS-1 is worth a premium and are very sought after guns.

Open the crane on the 3" 686 and see if it is marked CS-1.

I have one of these, it was made for the US Customs service and was one of the last guns released to the public when traded in. Klinton nixed that program.

Anyway, back to the CS-1. They were made in 3" and 4" versions. They have a .010 wide black front sight, a "frosted" finish on the stainless steel, and are round butted.

The CS-1 is worth a premium and are very sought after guns.


Thanks for the info Warhawk. I plan on stopping by the store today after work to give it another once-over. It definitely has a frosted finish and the front sight is black, but I believe the front part of the blade has a red/orange painted tip. I feel stupid for asking, but what the heck is the crane?

IMHO (and everybody has one), 6" barrel for woods work and 4" minimum for range. Need a good sight radius for accurate shooting at distance and the longer barrels are heavier to control recoil, burns powder more efficiently, and lessens muzzle blast.

The crane is the part that retains and swings out with the cylinder assembly. It"s positioned just ahead of the cylinder.

Rugers are very solid, but heavy.

You should be able to find a police trade-in for a much better price.... usual caveats to buying used apply. Nomally they look like doo-doo on the outside but haven't been shot much.

I have several Taurus .357s and like them. The new lightweight models would be a joy to carry; not so much joy to shoot.

Have fun.

I have had a 686 CS-1 for almost 20 years. It's a carry-a-lot and shoot-once-in-awhile gun compared to larger frame guns, but they don't make many N-frame .357 Smiths anymore.

The 696 falls in the same classification. It's a neat little item to carry and fits my Milt Sparks holster also.

SMITH & WESSON VERSUS RUGER IS LIKE THE FORD VS CHEVY ARGUMENT. A good example of either is a treasure.

GOOD LUCK AND ENJOY

For $600, I'd get two Rugers!!

I'd reverse Marshal Kane's barrel length requirements unless I intended to hunt with the gun. In that case they'd both be 6" for me. Longer sight radius is more helpful to me on targets. If it is not my intent to hunt with the gun, a holxtered 3" or 4" barrel is a whole lot easier to sit on a bench seat with.

Regarding the price of the Smith, it depends on the condition of the gun and what the value of the performance center work on it is? Custom revolversmith work to tighten accuracy and smooth out the action can add hundreds of dollars, same as custom race gun work. Perhaps a call to the Performance center is in order. Maybe they can tell you know from the serial number what was done to it and when and what that work costs?