The only Mauser straight bolts I've converted or seen were welded. Saw a conversion at OC gunshow that had a turned down bolt that was fastened on with about a 1/4 " round head, cross point screw. It looked like an aftermarket bolt with a flat milled in. Looked a bit tacky to me but to each his own. Guess this would be an option for folks that don't have welding facilities or don't want to pay someone. Hack saw, drill bit, tap, and off you go. Couldn't give it a good healthy open/close, etiquette and all. With my luck, I would have a separated bolt in my hand after the first round, looking for the nearest weld shop. Any of you all familiar with such a thing?

I've seen it advertised, right next the Mosin Nagant bolt on bolt conversion. Ugly as sin, but haven't heard of any coming loose.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?cmView=full&type=pod&id=0024491

You can buy blocks and bend the blot down. It is spendy for one bolt.

Frank

MAUSER BOLT FORGING BLOCKShttp://www.brownells.com/images/tab/open_curve.gifhttp://www.brownells.com/images/spacer.gifhttp://www.brownells.com/images/spacer.gif
http://www.brownells.com/Images/Products/080941500.jpg
http://www.brownells.com/images/button/stock_numbers.gif (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1019&title=MAUSER+BOLT+FORGING+BLOCKS#sku)http://www.brownells.com/images/spacer.gifhttp://www.brownells.com/images/button/specifications.gif (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1019&title=MAUSER+BOLT+FORGING+BLOCKS#specs)http://www.brownells.com/images/spacer.gif
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Mfr: BROWNELLS

Massive Blocks Make Custom Forging Bolt Knob "Sweep" Easy

No-welding method to bend a straight Mauser bolt handle for additional scope clearance. Two, machined steel, clamping blocks provide full support to the bolt to shape any round knob, Mauser bolt; the small ring 93, 94, 95, 96 or large ring 98. Extra large Forming Punch has sufficient mass for complete control, lets you apply just the right amount of striking force to precisely bend and shape bolt handle to final contour. With a little practice you can forge the handle so nicely that only a bit of finishing is needed. Punch has curved, removable, hardened tip that retains its shape with repeated use. Complete instructions explain the entire process

I have been using the Forging blocks for over twenty years, and have found that I can forge a bolt handle that will clear even the lowest mounted scopes, just remember to use a good heat sink when forging, and to keep the cocking ramp on the bolt cool, along with a quench as soon as the bolt is removed from the blocks. A 5 or 10 weight motor oil works just right.

Got one of those ugly bolt conversion kits to enable rear scope mounting on a Roosian POS M31. Followed directions carefully and took my time. Finished up by Lock-tighting the screw.

As said - ain't no thing of beauty, but functions just fine. And, EVERYONE knows how hard the bolt works on a MN! :p

Got one of those ugly bolt conversion kits to enable rear scope mounting on a Roosian POS M31. Followed directions carefully and took my time. Finished up by Lock-tighting the screw.

As said - ain't no thing of beauty, but functions just fine. And, EVERYONE knows how hard the bolt works on a MN! :p


Them is down right fightin words there kdub! If you ain't happy with it, serves you right for messing up a good thing! :D

I've welded many bolt handles, much less heat input than bending. E12018 has the right alloy mix to match most Mauser bolts, run it hot, get a good flow and mix w/ the base metal. Run it in all one shot and overfill by about 20% to allow for shaping, red peen and quench. Blends right in and takes an even blue if it's not staying in the white. Sorry, never tried the no-weld conversions.

Have no doubt that welding or forging is a much neater solution. OF the two, will weld on a replacement handle.

But the average guy isn't likely to have welding equipment (if they did, then they'd have thought about forging or welding a long time ago).

Have to say that that cut-n-bolt attachment is ugly, but it works. only problems I remember being posted were either from people who failed to read (or follow) the instructions and from broken taps.

So if the looks are acceptable...and lets hope you aren't cutting on some valuable militarty gun.....seems like a simple way to go.

Just trying to get a little bit smarter than when I paid to get swept back turned down bolts welded on two 98's that I spent way way too many hours converting twenty years ago. (Mediocre shooters...but they are Mausers!) Looks like the forging block thing uses some sort of "punch" to smack the bolt after it's heated, by acetylene I would assume. Or is the punch a lever of some sort? Looks like about $100 to get blocks and heat sink from Brownells.

Ribbonstone,

I have throughly enjoyed and positively gained from your wisdom and knowledge of firearms, gunsmithing and handloading. We both took a hit from hurricane Katrina but you took a very hard one with water over the roof of your home on the southshore in Lakewood.

I sincerely hope that your life and that of your family's is returning to something resembling normal.

I was sickened when you told me that you lost ALL of your guns, scopes and EVERYTHING else in the hurricane and was wondering if you've had the opportunity to replace any of them. If you have, we would like to hear about it.

JJ on the northshore.

Some I have welded, some I have forged. For me, forging is faster and easier, my welding skills lean toward the medicore.
I think I paid about $25 for a set of blocks from Gun Parts, back when they were plain old Numrich Arms. Brownells sells a punch, but a good ball pien hammer will work fine. Just takes a bit of practice.
Don't do any welding or forging, without heat stop paste AND a heat sink.

Just curious, how much were you guys paying for welding? I was doing them for $10 if they had everything prep'ed and $20 if had to do the cut & prep.

I never used a heat sink or paste, I made a Cu fixture and the arc only runs for 4-6 seconds. I'd bare hand it out of the fixture, peen with the needlegun and go right to the oil quench. Heat doesn't even have time to get into the bolt itself.

Nitro:

Thanks for the thoughts.

Found work...bought a new house, still in the region but in an area that didn't flood (closer to the river in Jefferson Parish).

Through the unbelievably gracious nature of the pwople on this board, got started on reloading and shooting again...A very special thanks (as allways) to Kragman as well as all the others here.

A few guns that were on "long term loan" were brought back for me to use...guns I'd given away in years past, and the owners seldom shoot.

Did savage a few guns, mostly momentos of my father...darned ugly ones now, but functional. 95% were runied past repair. It's the kind of "ugly" that can't be fixed...pitting is too kind a word for the erosion.

None of the shop was saved. Brother bought me a mini-lathe and I've collected most of my standard handtools in bits and pieces. Can pretty much do the small job hobby work.

Not nearly the extra $...new hose note and insurance rates are unbelievable....but i keep gun-busy. Have bought only a couple...replaced my wife's old Bearcat with the modern version; I bought here that original when we were dating.
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Recently had a old neighbore email me this picture. Was about 5 or 6 months after the storm, wee digging out somone's lawn furnature (wasn't ours..it got washed in). Front of the house looked better than the rear...front had the tree crsh down, rear had a car tossed through it. Water got under the foundation and eroded a path you could crawl though. Water level was well up to the peak of the roof and moving fast. (where I'm standing, if you stood on the top of my head, you'd still have drown).

Orange paint on the window is from the second National Guard search for bodies (the first search left a spray marker on top of the roof)...they stillf ind skeletal remains today.

The goofy looking guy nearest the door is myself.
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One of the problems with forging a bolt handle is the length of the bolt. Straight bolt handles are not very long and when you forge it some are quite short. May be functional but not the best solution. If you can weld and have a lath, the bolt can be extended. Of course if you have these abilities you will add a new bolt. If the bolt has engraving or checking then extending it is practical.

Frank

markkw,

I paid $ 50 each ( $20 for the fancy, turned down swept back, hollow as I recall bolts and $30 for the welding) back in St. Louis. Don't have any idea of what a southern Kalifornia 'smith will charge. I have two, bargaining for a third, milsurp in my safe right now, so I 'll soon find out. Must be nuts to spend money on a 60+ year old rifle!