I purchased a new Marlin 357 rifle yesterday. I was broke, but went home happy. I purchased it to shoot in the postal match, less recoil and less powder usage. When I got home, I took it out of the box to oil and clean it. Everything went fine until I opened the bolt to clean the bore. After cleaning the bore, I tried to close the bolt, but the lever would only go about 3/4 of the way closed and the bolt lacks about 3/8 inch closing. There is no ammo in the rifle. It just would not close. Finally I pushed on the end of the bolt with my thumb while pulling on the lever, and it closed. It did this several more times. I thought maybe a little wear would loosen things up. Then the lever refused to open the bolt. After I tried working the bolt several more times, it finally opened, but refused to close until I pushed the bolt with my thumb again.

I don't want to sent the rifle to Marlin. I want to shoot it. I don't want to pay postage on a brand new rifle. I want to pway to fix it without sending it to Marlin? And, how did a rifle like this get out of the factory?

Call Marlin Customer Support and ask them to walk you through this. Don't worry,they are cool people.

First off, don't try to force anything. You will make it worse.

It doesn't sound like you took the bolt out of the rifle to clean it???

Your directions should tell you how to take the lever and bolt out. Do that and make sure the ejector is installed correctly.

+1 with Ken. It sounds like an interference with the ejector.
Dan

I took the bolt out and checked the ejector last night. I think I have another ejector in my Marlin parts box. I may swap them and see if it makes any difference. Thanks for your help.

I completely removed the ejector and the lever will not close the bolt. It still hangs up.

Tighten the loading gate screw

The loading gate screw is tight. I took the rifle apart and examined everything very closely. You can see where the locking lug is hitting the bottom of the bolt. I can push the bolt in a tiny bit and the lever can lift the locking lug into the bolt cut outs. It is a timing issue. My best guess, the lever arm is about a 1/10 inch too short. I might be able to take the edge off the locking lug and the bolt cut out and it would work, but it might also void my warrantee. I am going to have to send it to Marlin.

I called Marlin. They are going to pay the postage and insurance back to Marlin. Looks like everything is going to work out.

Did you buy the rifle "new in the box"?

I have bought three new Marlins in the past couple of years and they still had they powder fouling in the barrel from where they were test fired.

Anything can I happen I guess but it doesn't seem like that could have gotten out, if they still fire them at the factory.

I'm sure it will work out, I know it's aggravating though.

I did not try to cycle it at the gun shop. It was new. It never crossed my mind there could be something wrong with it and I should take it out of the box and check it out. Because it was new, Marlin is paying the shipping cost both ways.

Keep us informed please. I want to get an 1894 soon too.

That bites! I can't imagine having to send a brand-new gun back to the manufacturer because it won't work right. I've got 4 Marlin levers (30-30, .357, .44 and .444) and a semi-auto and my high opinion of them just went down a notch.

I got the rifle back today. According to the repair paper in the box, they replaced the bolt. I checked the bolt and it is a different bolt. The original bolt had the serial of the gun etched on it. The new bolt just has 357 on it. I took the rifle to the range and shot it. It has a little catch when chambering a bullet, but it is a new gun. I think the action will smooth out with use. I am very happy with the trigger. It feels like 2 1/2 lbs. I do not have a scale, but it is very good. Also, I shot several two inch groups at 50 yards with open sights. I have a hard time seeing open sights, so 2 inches is good. I think group size will decrease with a peep sight or a scope. All in all, it was a good experience with Marlin and the rifle seems to be a keeper.

I got the rifle back today. According to the repair paper in the box, they replaced the bolt. I checked the bolt and it is a different bolt. The original bolt had the serial of the gun etched on it. The new bolt just has 357 on it. I took the rifle to the range and shot it. It has a little catch when chambering a bullet, but it is a new gun. I think the action will smooth out with use. I am very happy with the trigger. It feels like 2 1/2 lbs. I do not have a scale, but it is very good. Also, I shot several two inch groups at 50 yards with open sights. I have a hard time seeing open sights, so 2 inches is good. I think group size will decrease with a peep sight or a scope. All in all, it was a good experience with Marlin and the rifle seems to be a keeper.

Since this is the 1894 design it is subject to the "Marlin Jam", which you can easily avoid if you do some minor polishing on the lever now when it's new.

The little catch turned into a problem on the second trip to the rifle range. The cartridge is being lifted too high, the bullet is hitting the back of the barrel, and the cartridge will not chamber without backing off the lever a little way, then closing the bolt, kind of like double clutching a truck.

I called Marlin. The rifle is going back to Marlin for more work.

The little catch turned into a problem on the second trip to the rifle range. The cartridge is being lifted too high, the bullet is hitting the back of the barrel, and the cartridge will not chamber without backing off the lever a little way, then closing the bolt, kind of like double clutching a truck.

I called Marlin. The rifle is going back to Marlin for more work.

That sux, but occaisionally even Mercedes puts out a lemon. This same thing happened to a Marlin 336 in .35 Remington I bought years ago. The first one just wouldn't work, no matter how many new parts were replaced. Fortunately I was able to get my money back from the store and went and bought another one somewhere else, which today still functions flawlessly.

I hope Marlin will make you a happy customer, I just hate to see someone else have to go through all that frustration.

Greetings
I just got my Marlin 1894-c the other day and just came back from the range with it. It shot great and was a lot of fun, i usually shoot rimfire or .223 off the bench with scopes, but this was a nice change of pace. I felt like i didnt have to sweat group size or loads and just enjoyed myself.
I was thinking of putting a peep sight on the rear, anyone know where i can pick one up ?
I was shooting 125 grain hp pushed by 17 grains of 2400 powder and it did have a little kick and shot high. I also shot 125,s pushed by 7.7 of ww 231. This was a more enjoyable load and still accurate.
These bullets are half jacketed, does anyone think lead buildup will be a problem ? Made by Remington.
I have more questions but i will save them for another thread as i dont want to ask too much at once.
Thanks

Greetings
I just got my Marlin 1894-c the other day and just came back from the range with it. It shot great and was a lot of fun, i usually shoot rimfire or .223 off the bench with scopes, but this was a nice change of pace. I felt like i didnt have to sweat group size or loads and just enjoyed myself.
I was thinking of putting a peep sight on the rear, anyone know where i can pick one up ?
I was shooting 125 grain hp pushed by 17 grains of 2400 powder and it did have a little kick and shot high. I also shot 125,s pushed by 7.7 of ww 231. This was a more enjoyable load and still accurate.
These bullets are half jacketed, does anyone think lead buildup will be a problem ? Made by Remington.
I have more questions but i will save them for another thread as i dont want to ask too much at once.
Thanks

You shouldn't have to worry about lead build up but a good cleaning every now and then will keep down the copper fouling down. Usually the lighter .357 bullets get worse accuracy wise the faster you push them, and with some rifles the 110-125 grainers won't stabilize at all. Just not enough bullet surface to engage the rifling. As for hunting with it, you'll find enough handloads here to satisfy your needs. For plinking and small pests you might save some money reloading .38 specials to the range of the cowboy loads. Soft lead bullets and a light powder charge to give you around 1100 fps at the muzzle will allow you to shoot all day.

Midway, Brownells, SS Firearms, all have other selections as far as new sights. Check the trading post here and over at the SASS Wire, CAS City, and even Marlin Collectors Society for parts to hot rod your new Marlin.

Thanks for the heads up about the 125 grainers. I have some 158,s ready to go, think they will do better ?
Also, i read you need to scrub out the chamber with a wire brush if you shoot 38 specials because of the shorter case size. Anyone have a link to what brush they use ? I would appreciate it.
Im kind of leery of shooting lead bullets as i dont want to be scrubbing lead build up out. Copper to me is easier to get out with Elimanator or Sweets, but lead is a pain.
Thanks


You shouldn't have to worry about lead build up but a good cleaning every now and then will keep down the copper fouling down. Usually the lighter .357 bullets get worse accuracy wise the faster you push them, and with some rifles the 110-125 grainers won't stabilize at all. Just not enough bullet surface to engage the rifling. As for hunting with it, you'll find enough handloads here to satisfy your needs. For plinking and small pests you might save some money reloading .38 specials to the range of the cowboy loads. Soft lead bullets and a light powder charge to give you around 1100 fps at the muzzle will allow you to shoot all day.

Midway, Brownells, SS Firearms, all have other selections as far as new sights. Check the trading post here and over at the SASS Wire, CAS City, and even Marlin Collectors Society for parts to hot rod your new Marlin.

I think the 158's will be more accurate but you'll have to find a sweet spot your particular rifle prefers. Gas checked bullets if you are going to really pushing them. If hunting then any of the jacketed hollow point bullets up to the 180 grainers will work well. If a truly maxed out but safe cartridges for your Marlin are needed, check out Buffalo Bore.
As far as "scrubing" is concerned I would not do that, as it's just too easy to ruin a bore or crown by getting overzelous. Shooting .38's may give you a "crud ring" you only notice when switching to .357, much the same as .44 spl/.44 mag., but if you just give the chamber a quick spray of gun cleaner it goes away. I know I'll catch a few differing opinions when I recommend Wipe-out foaming bore cleaner. I use it and it eliminates the need to brush while cleaning, plus it's pretty easy on everything else. Disolves copper and powder fouling while it loosens lead so only a patch is needed to clean out all the layers.
Thanks for the heads up about the 125 grainers. I have some 158,s ready to go, think they will do better ?
Also, i read you need to scrub out the chamber with a wire brush if you shoot 38 specials because of the shorter case size. Anyone have a link to what brush they use ? I would appreciate it.
Im kind of leery of shooting lead bullets as i dont want to be scrubbing lead build up out. Copper to me is easier to get out with Elimanator or Sweets, but lead is a pain.
Thanks

The moral to this story is: "Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good."

ALWAYS check a new or new to you gun before you take delivery. That way you save yourself a lot of trouble.

Joe

Thanks SFT
One last question if you dont mind. Do you use a bore guide for cleaning and if so whic one ? I took mine apart and cleaned from the breech as is supposed to be done but i was very careful when drawing the rod back thru the crown so as not to ding it and ruin it.
Just wondering what most people use.


I think the 158's will be more accurate but you'll have to find a sweet spot your particular rifle prefers. Gas checked bullets if you are going to really pushing them. If hunting then any of the jacketed hollow point bullets up to the 180 grainers will work well. If a truly maxed out but safe cartridges for your Marlin are needed, check out Buffalo Bore.
As far as "scrubing" is concerned I would not do that, as it's just too easy to ruin a bore or crown by getting overzelous. Shooting .38's may give you a "crud ring" you only notice when switching to .357, much the same as .44 spl/.44 mag., but if you just give the chamber a quick spray of gun cleaner it goes away. I know I'll catch a few differing opinions when I recommend Wipe-out foaming bore cleaner. I use it and it eliminates the need to brush while cleaning, plus it's pretty easy on everything else. Disolves copper and powder fouling while it loosens lead so only a patch is needed to clean out all the layers.

I got my 1894 Marlin back from Marlin Friday. The last time I sent the rifle to Marlin, they replaced the bolt and a couple other parts. Inside the box was a list of the parts they replaced this time. As near as I can tell, between this time and the last time, they have replaced all the inside parts. Today I shot 50 rounds through it with no problems.

I was not happy to get a new rifle that did not work properly, but Marlin really stood behind the rifle. Now if someone can tell me how to fix the rifle to avoid the "Marlin Jam", I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Taylor

Thanks SFT
One last question if you dont mind. Do you use a bore guide for cleaning and if so whic one ? I took mine apart and cleaned from the breech as is supposed to be done but i was very careful when drawing the rod back thru the crown so as not to ding it and ruin it.
Just wondering what most people use.
To answer your question, a little later than I should have (sorry for not paying attention), no, I don't use a bore guide because I clean from the breach end. Learn to remove the lever and bolt along with the ejector and you'll never have to worry about crown damage.

I got my 1894 Marlin back from Marlin Friday. The last time I sent the rifle to Marlin, they replaced the bolt and a couple other parts. Inside the box was a list of the parts they replaced this time. As near as I can tell, between this time and the last time, they have replaced all the inside parts. Today I shot 50 rounds through it with no problems.

I was not happy to get a new rifle that did not work properly, but Marlin really stood behind the rifle. Now if someone can tell me how to fix the rifle to avoid the "Marlin Jam", I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Taylor

It's really very easy if you are working with a new gun. You could also send it to someone who specializes in "slicking up" Marlins, get an action job which will included fixing the sharp point on the lever that causes the problems.

Or you can DIY by reading about it here;- http://marauder.homestead.com/files/marlin94fix.html

It scared the **** out of me when I first read about it and opted for the action job as I shoot cowboy action, but after a friend and gunsmith showed me how, I encourage every 1894 owner to do it themselves.

I just purchased a 1894 CB in 357 Mag on the second trip to range I had the lever lock full open with two rounds in the mag- the cart follower hung up in the mag tube , I had to disassemble the whole thing to find out what it was. All I can think off it was a piece of grit in the tube that stopped the follower from pushing the cartridge forward -they were loose in the mag tube and locked up the action. I cleaned the mag tube and put the gun back together and it works like a champ again!