I have my Dad’s rifle, a 98 Mauser action of what seems to be a 40’s something. The rifle appears to be a semi-custom job from the early ‘50’s and looks very European with a “Safari” stock not unlike the style the SAKO 85 is presently stocked. It was oil finished.

I would like a medium to high gloss oil finish and keep the medium brown colour it presently has. There are a few dings on the wood and a couple of small knots where there are “holes” appearing, but aside from that the stock is in very good shape.

What is the best, and simplest, way to strip the old finish, fill the small knot holes, choose and apply a new oil finish?

Thanks for any help or advice.

BC Hunter,
One option would be to strip the old finish off with paint and varnish remover. I prefer one that is water soluble, wear rubber gloves and work outdoors. The old finish should come right off and the stock can be rubbed down with fine steel wool. I never sand a finished stock. Minor dents and dings can often be steamed out of the stock with a wet cloth and hot clothes iron. Keep the cloth wet and be careful not to scorch the wood. Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil will give a high gloss finish that is durable and easy to repair. About four or five light coats should be enough. Hope this helps. All the best...
Gil

Gil gave you good advice. I've done a pile of guns in Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil and it's an excellent finish. I like to use Certis-Strip or an epoxy rated stripper for all stock finishes. Brownell's sells an excellent one.

Application of Tru-Oil is simplicity itself. Just rub on with your fingers and when it's dry use fine steel wool to bring back to smooth. When you've decided that the finish is right use Birchwood Casey's Stock sheen to bring up to the gloss finish you want.

Here's a couple of pix of a Ruger #1 stock with Tru-Oil on it.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q172/faucettb/Preditor%20masters/Rugerstock2.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q172/faucettb/Preditor%20masters/Rugerstock1.jpg

I don't like to use steel wool on a stock unless it is already sealed. Bits tear off and can stick.
Nor am I a fan of TruOil but others love it.
Remember, stock refinishing is like cooking, there are many ways to make a souffle.

I concurr with both stripping ideas. Once the wood is clean and dry I splash on the sealer, let it dry and cut it down with 220 aluminum oxide paper and the sealer (Permalyn). I sand lightly with a block, taking off finish, not wood. I'll repeat four of five times, rubbing in the stuff with my palms still it starts to set. Each time I sand I step up a grade of sandpaper, 400, 600, 800, 1000. The higher you go you just polish and the less you cut.

TruOil works, as shown but I think Permalyn is better, longer lasting. Longer to work with though... just my recipe.

Thanks, guys.

I do have the problem with the small holes forming where tiny knots are. There are 2 of them. One is 1/16” long oval and about 1/32” deep. The other runs 1/3” long and 1/16" at the widest point in a crescent shape less than 1/32” deep. Someone suggested epoxy but that might not take the oil finish.

All the other dings I can raise with an iron and wet towel.

For the little holes you might consider trying lacquer sticks from Brownells. They come in a multitude of shades so you can probably match the shade of your stock. You have to scoop a little dab with a warm piece of metal, I use the blade of an old pocketknife, and smear the stuff into the defect while still soft. Pretty handy stuff for repairing defects and usually not noticeable under your finish.