What kind of accuracy can be expected from a 24/47, 8 mm, iron sights, very clean bore, sharp rifling, as issued rotten trigger? I can cull from three. I want to pick the best, put on a nice Boyds stock, a good trigger, and a scope. The 8mm will do anything I need to do Not really interested in converting to a Super magnum, WSSM, thunderstick. I don't enjoy shooting them at all and I will never have to stand toe toe with 1200 lb of claws and teeth or pay $ 5000 for an elk hunt.

Welcome to the forum relodr. Of the three I've shot with stock military sights they ran from a great 2.5 inch five shot group to a not bad 4.5 inch group. Lots of variences depending on how good the bore is.

The standard 8 by 57 is as good as any 30-06 and will work well on anything the 06 is good for.

185gr + bullets will likely produce the best accuracy, if everything is right and good, no reason they cannot produce MOA to sub-MOA. I like the OEM sights, very accurate configuration, just sharpen them up a bit if they're banged up. OEM trigger can be tuned nicely, I never saw a need for replacement and my mil-surp's all wear their OEM stocks. I have two scoped versions but both are done with the correct OEM equipment to simulate sniper versions. It's all about what you want but there is no "need" to de-mil them to get a good performing rifle but if the "want" is there, by all means enjoy yourself. The 8x57 will handle killing anything that needs killing including the big 5 provided you use the correct bullet and place your shot correctly. When everything is known good, forget the whimpy loads in the domestic manuals and crank them on up to full throttle where they were intended to be.

185gr + bullets will likely produce the best accuracy, if everything is right and good, no reason they cannot produce MOA to sub-MOA. I like the OEM sights, very accurate configuration, just sharpen them up a bit if they're banged up. OEM trigger can be tuned nicely, I never saw a need for replacement and my mil-surp's all wear their OEM stocks. I have two scoped versions but both are done with the correct OEM equipment to simulate sniper versions. It's all about what you want but there is no "need" to de-mil them to get a good performing rifle but if the "want" is there, by all means enjoy yourself. The 8x57 will handle killing anything that needs killing including the big 5 provided you use the correct bullet and place your shot correctly. When everything is known good, forget the whimpy loads in the domestic manuals and crank them on up to full throttle where they were intended to be.


I could not have said it better! I reload both 175 and 200 grain for hunting in my '98 clones. Very accurate!

Most of the Yugoslav 24/27s I have seen had decent bores. The front sight height may or may not be adequate to get point of aim at the 100 meter setting. I have had to replace the front sight blade with a higher one and work it to get it right on point of aim at 100 meters.

Accuracy depends on the rifle, the shooter, the ammo and the sights. My best results have been with 150 or 175 grain bullets and a moderate load of IMR4895. I have never found maximum loads to be the most accurate in these rifles. Take care...
Oberndorf

One common sore point on surplus military rifles is their having been cleaned from the muzzle a lot, and cleaning rod wear can be bad near the muzzle while the rest of the bore is sharp. Double-check for that, and pick the one with the best rifling definition just at the muzzle. For .30 cal you can buy a commercial muzzle wear gauge, but I am not aware of one for 8 mm. A small hole gauge (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=615-6250&PMPXNO=949268&PARTPG=INLMK3) can tell you the same thing. Just insert it as far as you can into the muzzle and open it untill it just touches the lands. Bring the expanded part up just inside the muzzle and see how much looser it is? Open it up at the muzzle. Use a micrometer to show you the differnce in the two gauge adjustments if you want actual numbers?

To measure the muzzle, use an 8mm bullet! If it sinks close to the brass, it is NG. If it has 3/8" or so showing it is good! Jim

For muzzle wear check, just slug the muzzle and not the entire bore, this will tell you right away. Most times simply re-crowning will cure a lot of problems, worse conditions may dictate removing an inch or so off the end.

Oberndorf, most have enough meat on the rear blade to allow for cutting the notch a little deeper rather than raising the front sight for calibration purposes. This is something I usually suggest anyway because it also helps sharpen the sight picture to reduce sighting errors.

J, Thanks for the compliment!

I primarily run my own cast bullets but have gotten the best accuracy in jacketed using the 196gr SPCE from S&B (their factory ammo is also very accurate as well) and the 200gr Speer spitzer. The 220gr Sierra GK seems to do okay but is a bit long for the twist and RPM's you can get from the 8x57JS. IMR-4350 has worked well but Reloader 22 is quickly winning me over in the 8x57JS along with several cartridges.

A bunch of the 24/47s that I have seen have brand-new looking barrels. If you have a choice in the matter, should be able to find a pristine one.

Best of luck.

I have 2 that shoot about 2" with issue irons and Turkish 8mm surplus ammo. I was really surprised they did that well. Glad I bought 4 cases of the ammo!

Garth, what year of mfg is your Turk ammo and do you know the bullet weight? I've found it not at all accurate in my Yugo/kraut rifles, I have various from 1943 to 1947, but it does shoot pretty good in my friends Turk mauser.

I picked up a new 24/47 last winter. Looked to be new, unissued. No stock dings, all matching numbers, sharp shiny bore and muzzle. Came with the bayonet, sling, accessory pouch, oil bottle and cleaning tools. $199 With milsurp turk ammo, it shoots 4 1/2 inches off the bench at 100 yards and just under 3 inches with Yugo surplus ammo. I have yet to take it to the range with handloads but I expect good results.