I am repairing a Model 700 BDL sport rifle, that has a split from in front of the recoil lug recess to just behind the tang screw hole. :eek: It is very fixable, I have no doubts of that, but on to My question.

I know that I will have to do this project in "steps". I will get the pillars in place and epoxied in, however I do not have a small tube of a suitable epoxy to secure the pillars in, and I certainly dont wish to mix an entire batch of Acraglass just to do the pillars. Id rather save that 20$ box for the official action beding.

I would prefer not to have to order some from a supplier, as the wait and shipping isnt worth it just for one small tube of bedding compound. Can anyone suggest any particular compound that I can pick up at the local hardware store that would work well for this?

Thanks

Probably any of the two part epoxy mixes available at the hardware stores will work. I used to buy one that came with two tubes together like a couple of big hypodermic needles and you just pushed both plungers down at the same time til you had the amount of epoxy you needed.

You can mix smaller amounts of acra-glass at a time, but for small repairs it's easier to use something else.

Now that I've said that I do prefer to use acra-glass for the whole thing, but I ran a small gunshop and was accustomed to doing it that way. I do like the way acra-glass works, it's one vary good epoxy. Brownell's has several other products such as "hot stuff" for quick sticking of parts to other stuff.

As for your 700 I'd sure hog out most of the split with a dremel moto tool or such and make sure to get the epoxy or bedding compound the full length of the crack and on both sides and bottom of the recoil lug.

I've used the Devcon 2-ton Epoxy many times with success.

Just don't get the 5-minute stuff.

Good luck.

J-B Weld works pretty good too.
But I agree with using any two part epoxy.

For small batches of Acraglass use your powder scale and measure by wt. Like 40grs of resin and 10grs of hardener. I do it all the time it works great. I've even mixed smaller batches on a piece of wax paper using an electronic scale. I buy the gunsmiths kit that comes with a Qt of resin, but that doesn't mean I want to waste it.

I use the acraglass gel, which is nice cause it is a 1 to 1 mix, just get a cheap set of measuring spoons from walmart and mix up a small batch. I have done 4 rifles with my small pack of acraglass, but then again I only do the front screw and recoil lug. You should have plenty to glass in your pillars and bed the action

I have used "Elmers" Maximum Glue with good results on small jobs. I fixed a cracked mauser and enfield with it.


locoman

I am happy to see that its not going to be a complicated matter. My intention is to acra glass the action afer I get the pillars set correctly. I think its too risky to glass the pillars, action and lug all at once. I did not know it was that easy to mix a smaller batch of acraglass. I have 2 boxes of the gel out there, and one of the regular runny acraglass. Ill give a small batch of that a look see. Or, a good 2 part epoxy from the warehouse. Either way, Thank for the help. I gotta get this rifle fixed and back to its owner...... I got 3 more waiting on Me to get done!

That's a good move shy. I've been bedding guns with Acra-glass for many years now and I always do it in steps. For filling the crack the runny kind is best and it may be best for putting in the pillers.

Good luck with your projects.

I agree with several things said above. Weighing is almost always the best way to mix any epoxy, but be aware the resin and hardener are not the same density. You need to determine their weight ratios by weighing equal volumes on a powder scale. Opened resins can be given a life extension simply by refrigerating them in an air-tight container.

Since the stock is split, get some surgical latex rubber tubing or go to the local bicycle repair shop and see if you can't get some retired inner tube to cut into strips. You'll need something like these to bind the cracks firmly together while the glue sets.

If you're going to pillar bed, I would repair the cracks first, as recommended above, so you don't get a tendency for your drill to spread the cracks when you prepare the wood for the pillars. Been there and done that.

The two part Devcon is good. JB weld will hold a pilar in, but the steel filler in it and its color don't recommend it for repairing the crack. You want plain resin for that. The T-88 epoxy sold at Woodcraft stores is really excellent for the purpose and you can add a filler to it if you need to, for a gap.

Heed Mike's warning to stay away from the quick epoxies. Get something that takes a couple of hours to set, at least. The longer it takes, the better, not only because the quick setting polymers are weaker (Devcon even lists the pull strength on the packages, I believe), but because the extra time lets it penetrate deeper into the wood grains for a better hold. Elmers or, better yet, Weldwood resin glues will also work on the crack. Whether you choose an epoxy or the Weldwood for the crack, get a disposable glue syringe from the hobby shop or buy the glue in a dispenser that includes a mixing straw set. Either way, you want to get the material all the way into the wood.

If this is just a crack you can see, but has not yet opened into a true split, and the wood is still holding together, both Woodcraft and West Marine sell thin epoxies intended to penetrate wood deeply and reinforce it to stop rot damage. The same mix may be squirted into a crack and refreshed a few times as it soaks in. You then want to bind the wood as if it had been glued and be sure to wipe off any excess. There really shouldn't be much of the latter, as the stuff wicks in well.