well i tried it a while ago on the rem 700.. ive waited to admit it as
many will quote the adage if it sounds to good to be true .. it probably is..after shooting for a month or so this is what the results was for me..1. a really tighter group. 2 . when the barrel heats up the rds use to travel a bit .. now that doesnt happen.. i still try not to shoot with the barrel to hot but
occasionally it happens and i use to see a significant change in accuracy but not anymore..

now the reason i put this here.. ive got the 308 bull barrel coming,hopefully soon for my handi rifle..
i believe at this time that the cheaper gun is made possible
because the barrel material is not of the same quality as remington.. i say this because ive had as good groups out of the handi rifle as any gun ive tried including the rem..
but i made a few mistakes i guess and now in 243 its more a hunting backup than good group gun..if the 308 barrel is pretty good out the box ,,ill not do any thing.. but im wondering if the rifling in the handi 308 bull,, is going to
hold up to the abrasive polishing of david tubbs product..
anyone with experience using it on handi rifles ..your input appreciated ,,but any thoughts welcome..ps also this o ring i hear about people using .. exactly where do you put it..sorry for being wordy.. thanks slim

hope i didnt make handi rifle owners mad.. i like mine but
my experience with the 243 taught me that handis are just different.. i dont wont to rough up the barrel and permanently damage it... in any case i pretty much dont beat around the bush ,,as to what i think about brands of product etc.... i use to offend some on the chainsaw forum because i said what i really thought about an brand of saw..but if you cant stick to the truth as you see it ,,best just not put out,, stroking hot air.. now there are things about the handi that i really like... a friend who is a remington man ,,cant figure why im fooling with it.. while having an perfectly sighted in remington in the closet..mostly its just simple and
ive seen them shoot with the best.. so i know they can.

I wouldn't recommend using it, even the lighter grit bullets, H&R bores are button rifled very shallow, (they use 4140 alloy for their barrels, btw) using an abrasive may just ruin the bore, particularly the throat. One member tried it at GBO and what accuracy he had went away. If you want to smooth the bore a bit, use JB Bore compound or Flitz on a patched jag, it will reduce the break in period and foul a bit less. See the FAQs and Help sticky in the NEF Forum at GBO for more accuracy tips.

http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php?board=126.0

alright ,,thats pretty much what i was thinking..
ill check out the sources you mentioned.. might just break it in the ole timey way by shooting.. my big misstake with the 243 was thinking i could shoot too much in too short a time..
so ignorance turned a good group gun into a gun that is a back up ..i want to try not let that happen with this 308 barrel..im hoping shes pretty good out the box.. then ill let time break it in..by the way you probably know where to put the o ring on these handi guns.. i think i know but thought i might get confirmation from those that know the handi guns..thanks for your input..slim

You'll find that info in the FAQs on the GBO foum, but another option that I like more and works very well is to shoot it supported under the frame on a rest(as it should be shot from a bench anyway unless you full length bed the forend) with no forend on it, if the vertical stringing disappears, you need to work with the forend. You can try an O-ring on the forend stud, but better yet, put a 1" square of fridge magnet in the forend about an inch from the muzzle end, tighten the forend screw to 24-30 inch/lbs, this forend pressure point has worked very well for me on a bunch of Handis! The forend shouldn't be too tight either, it should just keep the action snug when it's open, no felt wiggle, if it has a wood or laminated forend, flat sand the flat side of the spacer to reduce tension on the barrel, or add a thin shim between the forend and spacer if it's loose. If it has a synthetic forend, it's not as easy to "tune".

Tim

thanks for the info..most of the secrete to good performance is in knowing them.. i dont but you do .. so i appreciate
the help..ill try the fridg magnet..thats the sort of thing i think up.. sometimes i get looks,, but its better to find a remedy yourself than always pay to fix stuff.. thanks again
gotta get an torque wrench ,i guess tommorow.... now im just waiting for it to get here..

What is the opinion you guys have on Tubb's treatment on a stainless steel savage barrel? I'd like to hear what you think before I tell you how it ended up.

worked better than i expected on rem barrel. i looked at a version of savage at dicks sporting that didnt impress me .. however it was one without the acutrigger and with scope etc was only about 350 or something...might not have been a good gun to judge savage by..think the guy said it was the 100 series.. the best thing i got out of the tubbs box was a gun that shoots the same way all the time..it already shot true ..but the tubbs product did help the promised 30-40-
percent in accuracy.. hope you had as good results as i did.

The system made my 112 Savage so the barrel doesn't color a patch after 20 shots. The difference was easily felt upon cleaning with a patch. This rifle shoots well under a half an inch ALWAYS.