What are the critical steps in loading unprimed factory brass for the first time?

I pick up a brand new Ruger 77 Hawkeye .257 Roberts (not Improved, just plain-jane) this weekend. I can shoot factory ammo to build up a brass supply or I can buy new brass and reload from the git-go.

In the past I usually started with loaded factory ammo. When I have bought unprimed, factory brass I would full-length resize, deburr flash holes, trim and deburr necks as needed, and load to book specs.

Is there any value or advantage in following a "fire forming" routine with the new brass over and above loading it as per published loads and specs? (By fire forming I mean using reduced powder load with bullet seated against the lands as described in Nosler loading manual.)

I will probably start with three or four boxes of factory ammo regardless of this question because antelope and deer seasons are right around the corner. But the question has been bugging me.

I've been loading for over 45 years now and have never fire formed a cartridge except for a 357 Herrit that needed cases made from 30-30 brass.

Lube and full length resized new brass. Often you will find deformed case mouths because of the handling and bumping they take before getting to you.

Load and fire. Depending upon your die sets the next time you shoot them you will have to full length size or in my case for the varmint rifles I neck size with the Lee collet neck sizing die.

Neck sizing works the brass very little which means longer case life.

My 2 cents.

In the past I usually started with loaded factory ammo. When I have bought unprimed, factory brass I would full-length resize, deburr flash holes, trim and deburr necks as needed, and load to book specs.

Thats what I do with my new brass always, consistency is the key to accuracy regardless of the type round your loading. Fire Forming, well if your using factory loads your already doing that once you fire the factory round. Unless you looking for some kind of bench rest type accuracy I don't think you will see much of an advantage to doing that with your new brass cases. Neck sizing only is an option you might consider once you fire the rounds it may or may not show an advantage it's just going to take testing to find that out. I'm sure you understand that using neck sized only cases are rifle specific and not interchangeable between rifles. All my rifles are either lever action Savage 99 or semi-auto SKS so i full length resize always someone that shoot a bolt action can probably help you more with the FL vs. neck size option.

For a bolt rifle I fire form using real loads then neck size only. You definitely want to inspect each new brass for bad ones. Personally I have found the second fires to be more accurate but not really that significant for hunting, just on targets.

You're doing it the way most folks do, naumann - just continue the procedures you outlined and you'll be fine. No need to use reduced loads with factory fresh cases. Load up and enjoy!

Thanks for the replies. What got me to thinking was reading about fire forming .257 Roberts brass to .257 Roberts Improved in my Nosler manual.

Looks like I'll stay with the way I've been doing it.