I recently purchased a Rem. 270 WSM for all of my deer hunting. I have been using Federal rounds loaded with Barnes triple shock with great results. I can buy these off the shelf. My sister heard me talking about how I really wanted to try some of the new MRX bullets and she went out and surprised me with two brand new boxes. Unfortunately, no case, primer, or powder came with them. It's the thought that counts. I have asked around and made several phone calls, and I can't find anyone who is reloading. I will pay for all materials and labor plus shipping if I can just find someone to load them. If anyone out there can help, please let me know. Or, if anyone knows where I can find some already loaded MRX in 270 WSM that would be great also. Thanks for any help with this. Montana trip is in three weeks. Time is running out.

Sounds like you need to invest in a starter reloading kit and roll your own.

Don't think I'd trust anyone's reloads that I personally didn't know and that didn't test fire his loads in my rifle himself. Just my opinion, of course.

Exactly what would I need to purchase to load for 270 WSM only? I would love to start doing some reloading. I just don't know where to begin.

Minimum equipment needed is a press, reloading dies, and a powder scale. You can use a dixie cup or static-free plastic cup to trickle the correct powder charge, but you might include a powder trickler on the list. Lots of things make reloading easier and/or quicker, but those are the must-haves. Consumables you'll need include once-fired or new brass (hopefully you've kept yours), powder, primers, case lube, and bullets. Data is available on the 'net.

Some folks might tell you you need more stuff, but I loaded with those basics for years. If you load your brass several times, you will eventually need a case trimmer, because the cases will stretch.

You just asked to take a drink from a firehose :eek:

In all honesty, three weeks is a bit short to learn how to handload and subsequently find a suitable load for your gun. Not that it can't be done, but you won't be doing much else...

There is information abound at this site on which equipment and where to start, just scroll down the topics in this section of the forum and you will find pleanty. You will also see several recommendations for powders and such, just remember that this advise is worth what you paid for it :rolleyes:

IMHO, the best place to start is the Lee Aniversary Kit (~$85, with handbook that you'll need), a second handbook (Lyman is preferred by most, but the others are good too), a set of Lee dies for your calliber, and the primers and powder (that's the catch).

I don't have a WSSM, so I don't have any specific information on them but I have read a bit about them.

First off, you aren't going to get the Velocities of the factory ammunition, so don't try and don't worry about it (this applies to just about every cartridge). Load for precision (what some people inaccurately call "accuracy") with your rifle and place your shots correctly. A hit with a plinker beats a miss with a magnum every time!

Second, read both manuals BEFORE you buy the powder and primers. In fact, I would recommend buying the "second" handbook first and reading it before buying the kit with its manual. You might decide you just aren't up for it (no shame in that) and then you are only out the price of a book. And maybee later you'll decide to jump in.

Keep in mind that handloading is a long term investment. An investment in quality. It takes time, effort and learning to do it right. That means that you WILL make mistakes, and you will have to fumble around a bit to find what works with your rifle. That is why I state that 3 weeks is a bit short to build good ammo. I've been handloading for over 15 years and I don't think I could build good hunting loads for a "new" gun in three weeks without quitting my job and putting my marriage at risk ;)

The simple solution is to put those wonderful MRX bullets aside for the future and take the ammunition that you are already shooting. You are investing a lot into coming to my fair state of Montana and you have plenty to do without trying to learn how to reload. You need to shoot ammo that you have the utmost of confidence in and you're not going to get that done in three weeks and still have your mind where it needs to be. God Bless your sister, she gave you a great and expensive gift, but don't worry about the reloading until after you get back from Montana. Then, find yourself a suitable area in your home that is clean, quiet, and not near any open flames and install a sturdy bench. After that, pick up the components you need, beginning with the Barnes reloading manual -- they'll have a new one out in 2008. The MRX, by the way, really is an amazing bullet.

Mr. NoHat,

Sunday Creek gave you good advice. There are custom loading operations, but time and cost are involved, and until you have time to work up the most satisfactory load for your gun, you won't know what to ask those guys to do anyway? Every gun wants a slightly different load for best performance. Since you have a round you can buy that you know works well, I would put a premium on that known quantity to avoid wasting the cost of your trip. The new bullets will give you an excuse to fund the same trip again in the next year or so.

Stanger73,

Accuracy and Precision? You can reload for precision (best repeatability, i.e. smallest group) or for accuracy (as in picking the right bullet weight and charge so a fixed-sight gun will hit to point of aim, or to achieve adequate trajectory flatness over a specified range that keeps accuracy within a predetermined kill zone). But in the end you really want to wind up with both happening, so you really want to load to achieve validity. Nobody ever says that, though. Maybe we could start that usage? ;)

Where'd you get the idea that hanloaders couldn't get to or beyond factory velocities? You must not own a 45-70. The only factory rounds I've never been able beat that I have guns for are the Hornady Light Magnum loads. In fact, the first thing that brought me to this forum was a discussion of trying to figure out how to match those. They aren't available in every chambering, though. Or perhaps you just meant the WSM factory loads couldn't be beaten? I've never had the opportunity to try?

The only real difference between the MRX and the Triple Shock (TSX) is about 25-50 yards of increased range. That means little if you are shooting a load you already know well and have confidence in. The MRX offers great terminal ballistics, but so does the TSX. I've tested both extensively in dry and wet paper. I am assuming you are coming to Montana for deer and/or elk. A .270WSM with a TSX bullet is more than sufficient for that if the bullet is placed properly.
You can get better performance through handloading but in some cases that means working up a max load and that's no place for new reloaders to begin. Unclenick and others on this board know a lot about reloading and shooting and I'm sure they'd be glad to help. The .45-70 and the .35 Rem are two examples of leverguns that are factory loaded way below their potential. The difference is usually not as extreme in bolt-action calibers but you never know until you begin studying various reloading manuals. I have a friend who is chief ballistician for RamShot and they do all the load testing for Barnes. He claims the MRX bullet is the best he has seen, so, you do have something to look forward to .... for next year.

I really appreciate everyones input. I have put aside the MRX bullets and picked up a box of Federal 130 TSX. I have had great success with Federal/Barnes. Last weekend I picked up a box of Rem. Premier 150 gr. accutips. I just wanted to break in the barrel and get the gun on paper. It shot well, but after almost every shot the bolt was hard to open. It felt like the rounds had too much pressure. I was cleaning after every shot, so I know the bolt, bore, and chamber were clean. I will shoot Barnes 130 TSX this weekend and see if bolt is still hard to open. The rifle is brand new, so does anyone know what else it could be? Back to the reloading. Thanks again for all of the input. I have a space in the corner of my garage that I will use for reloading. I know there will be many questions, and that's ok, for on this site there are many answers. My 270 wsm will be a good place to start. Looks like its time for a trip to Gander Mountain or Bass Pro. Anyone have a credit card I can borrow? Thanks again for your help with this. Oh yea. I almost forgot. If anyone has a custom Lilja, Schilen, Douglas, Hart, etc... barrel for 270 wsm they want to get rid of, please let me know. My next step is to replace the barrel on this 700. Thanks.

A sticky bolt is a classic high pressure sigh. It could be due to the powder charge or to the bullets being seated too far out for your chamber. In any event, please take the time to call or e-mail Remington and let them know of the problem, the ammo lot number and the make of your gun. Don't use any more of that ammo if you have any leftover. Remington will likely ask to have the remaining troublemakers back so they can do a pressure barrel test to see if they need to recall it?

It isn't often you see factory rounds too hot, but it does happen from time to time.

I think you've made the right decision not to risk messing up your hunt. Then you'll be in for some fun with reloading keeping you occupied all winter long.

Mr.NoHat,

PM sent to you Sir....

A

If you were cleaning after every shot and left the cleaning solvent/oil in the chamber without wiping it out good, the case wasn't able to get a good grip on the chamber walls and you experienced greater bolt thrust than if the chamber was dry.

Factory ammo is pretty much loaded to minimum COAL (Cartridge OverAll Length) to assure it will fit and function in a multitude of SAAMI chambers. Normally, it the bullet is seated too far out, it fails to function properly through the magazine. If your rifle is a custom barreled/chambered one, that is a horse of a different color.

If you were cleaning after every shot and left the cleaning solvent/oil in the chamber without wiping it out good, the case wasn't able to get a good grip on the chamber walls and you experienced greater bolt thrust than if the chamber was dry. . .


Kdub,

You may find this interesting: Take a look at this page (http://www.varmintal.com/a243z.htm) on Varmint Al's website of the analysis of strain in a .243 case. Scrolling about 2/3 of the way down, you will find a chart of bolt thrust verses chamber finish and lubrication condition. It turns out, within the variance of the analysis output, which appeared to be around +/- 100 pounds, the bolt thrust at 50,000 PSI chamber pressure is just barely affected by polishing or lubricating with grease. It gains maybe 5% or so when you do both. Still way below proof load pressure bolt thrust. It isn't until he lubricates the chamber and case to a coefficient of friction of 0.01 (about twice as slick as molybdenum disulfide) that bolt thrust goes up 50% to about 7500 lbs, and is finally in the range of proof load bolt thrust. This surprised me until I recalled that one of the semi-automatic rifles (Thompson's, maybe?) that competed with the Garand for selection by the Army back in the 1920's had oilers on its magazines that were required for reliable extraction by its mechanism. Add to that all the over-oiled Garands I’ve seen blowing oil into the magazine from the op-rod and other places (not to mention all over this shooter’s glasses, when he had occasion to fire one) and you’ll realize an awful lot of oiled ammo has been fired over the years without causing a problem. I think the bolt thrust concern is one of those things that grown out of proportion to reality over the years.

Bolt sticking doesn’t result from bolt thrust alone until you get to the point of damaging the bolt lugs. Normally it begins when the brass grows so long under pressure that the bolt lugs and chamber spring back to shape more than the more malleable brass can do. Thus the brass is actually jammed in the chamber, longitudinally. What makes it a pressure sign is that it means the bolt and/or receiver lugs have flexed far enough to allow this to happen, which is too far for regular use and risks fatiguing the steel over time, and eventually resulting in failure. The diameter of the chamber of a bolt gun usually flexes less than chamber length, owing to bolt/receiver lug yield being lower. So, by the time pressure gets up to where cases are actually sticking to the chamber walls against extraction, you have an even more serious over-pressure problem. Thus, the normal sequence as you give a load increasingly excessive pressure, will be the bolt gradually getting harder to turn, but the case still extracting, then the case getting harder and harder to extract as you increase pressure further (usually beyond proof load pressure).

One exception I can think of is when the case head starts to flow into the extractor or ejector cuts and contours. That also can make the bolt hard to turn without longitudinal stretching being involved. In a beefy action or in one with excessive gaps in its parts fit, this can happen before longitudinal stretching. In any event, this is also too much pressure, since the case life will be very short if the head brass is flowing that much.

Bottom line, those Remington loads were making too much pressure for the gun and should not be used in it.

Enjoy your hunt, best of luck. If you are going to reload for just that cal the cheapest single stage press and reloading kit such as the Lee will load a bullet just as accurate as the most expensive press and kit combo. It is likely to be not as user friendly or easier physically easy, though hardly hard to use. It is a good basic setup more than ample for single cal use. If you decide to up grade it will not be as hard as it would be if you did not know the basics and own some of what you need not replace. Powder measures and scales, case trimmers, loading blocks, funnel etc need not to be bought. Most often all you would do is buy an easier to use and stronger press.

Picked up a box of 130 Triple Shock. I hope to have good results tomorrow. These MRX bullets I have sure do look good. I can get them loaded by a friend of mine who lives out of town. I want to try Win. brass, Fed. 215 primers, and either RL19 or 22. He has been loading for his 270wsm for a while now, and he has a load he wants me to try. I have friend here in town who shoots a Sako 75 in 270wsm, so if they don't work for me, maybe they will work for him. I have two boxes, so maybe we can get close with one or the other. I wish I knew what depth to seat. Barnes says to start with .050. I know it could be anywhere from .030 to .070. Can anyone tell me the best way to find out. Can I take a new case, insert a bullet, and lightly chamber a round and see what OAL is and start there? I am open for any suggestions on how to find out. Thanks for any help with this.

Picked up a box of 130 Triple Shock. I hope to have good results tomorrow. These MRX bullets I have sure do look good. I can get them loaded by a friend of mine who lives out of town. I want to try Win. brass, Fed. 215 primers, and either RL19 or 22. He has been loading for his 270wsm for a while now, and he has a load he wants me to try.

DANGER, WILL ROBINSON!

This is a very dangerous practice. Never blindly use handload data developed in another gun unless it is a known mild load that is at least 10% charge weight below the lowest maximum posted in all the loading handbooks you can check. Checking a minimum of three handbooks that have the same powder and bullet weight combination listed is the accepted rule of thumb. Handloads are not interchangeable. All it takes is a different freebore length in your chamber or a shorter headspace chamber or greater seating depth, and a load that works in one gun will overpressure another. I think this goes double for you since you had pressure signs with the Remington load which ought to have had a safety margin built in. Any load your friend has developed should be backed off 10% and worked up slowly in your gun watching for pressure signs.

Note that changing seating depth changes pressure. In a bottleneck case with modern rifle powder, allow this will be the equivalent of adding about 0.1 grain of powder for each 0.01" additional depth, and work back up if needed. The exception is seating out far enough to touch the lands, at which point there is a jump in pressure equal to adding 0.5 to 1.0 grains of powder in most load combinations. Enough to start blowing primers, separating caseheads and the like in near-max loads.

Using other people's handloads is one of the great no-no's among handloaders. Too many possible problems.

To learn a little about load development for your rifle, take a look at Dan Newberry's site (http://home.earthlink.net/~dannewberry/dannewberrysoptimalchargeweightloaddevelopment/) for one good method.

Picked up a box of 130 Triple Shock. I hope to have good results tomorrow. These MRX bullets I have sure do look good. I can get them loaded by a friend of mine who lives out of town. I want to try Win. brass, Fed. 215 primers, and either RL19 or 22. He has been loading for his 270wsm for a while now, and he has a load he wants me to try. I have friend here in town who shoots a Sako 75 in 270wsm, so if they don't work for me, maybe they will work for him. I have two boxes, so maybe we can get close with one or the other. I wish I knew what depth to seat. Barnes says to start with .050. I know it could be anywhere from .030 to .070. Can anyone tell me the best way to find out. Can I take a new case, insert a bullet, and lightly chamber a round and see what OAL is and start there? I am open for any suggestions on how to find out. Thanks for any help with this.

Listen to Unclenick's advice, another issue that might pop up is feeding problems, if his rifle is of a different brand than yours it is possible that the magazines might have a difference in length and the cartridge could get stuck.

You guys are right. Bad idea. I was thinking of it as another factory round. Did some shooting yesterday with fac. Federal loaded with Barnes 130 TSX. I put a bipod on my rifle because they are a great assette in Montana. I shot several rounds from the prone position using the bipod. Target was set at 250 yds. Groups averaged 4". I hope that will work ok out to 350. I really don't shoot much past that distance. I am thinking the Barnes TSX in 140 or 150 may tighten things up a bit. These two boxes of 150 MRX just sitting here are driving me nuts. They look too **** good to not perform. As far as the bolt being hard to open after shooting yesterday, all I can say is Remington may want to check some of their ammo. Bolt functioned normally shooting Federals. I don't know how they loaded that particular batch of Premier 150 accutips. Can anyone tell me the easiest/best way to find out what my seating depth is. If I can find this out, I can get these MRX bullets loaded. Thanks.

I discuss one simple and accurate method of measuring seating depth here:

http://www.reloadingroom.com/page41.html

. . . all I can say is Remington may want to check some of their ammo. . .

They won't check it if you don't give them the heads-up. Reports from the field are the only way they discover this kind of error. Go to their customer support area on-line here (http://remington.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/remington.cfg/php/enduser/std_alp.php?p_sid=QnkF-POi). Post this question: "Why does the bolt on my (put rifle model here) .270 WSM get hard to open when I fire Remington (name Remington load here) ammunition, but not when I fire Federal or Winchester ammunition? Is this lot (put lot number from box here) loaded too hot?"

That will get their attention. Expect them to respond in some fashion. You may end up with some free ammunition.

I sent Rem. email telling them that the bolt was extremely hard to open after every shot. I gave them all of my information except the lot number. I still have not located the spent box of ammo. I think it's at the camp. Anyway, Remington sent me a confirmation that they had received my email, but have yet to respond otherwise. Thanks for the info on seating depth. I went by Gander Mountain Sunday and looked at some of their reloading supplies. It looks like they have everything I need to get started. They had some books titled something like "Everything you need to know about reloading 308, 30-06, 7 mag, etc... There were several books for each individual caliber. I could not find one for 270 wsm. Do you know of one individual book that concentrates on the reloading of the 270 wsm? I can't wait to start doing my own reloading.

. . .Thanks for the info on seating depth. . .

Except I remembered the numbers wrong. It is almost 10 times the number of inches in grains of powder in .30-06. I corrected the post above, but 0.1" or seating depth increases pressure close to what 1 grain of additional powder will do.

The books on individual calibers are basic load data. The book you found or the Lyman manual carried by GM will have the general descriptions of the process. GM carries the Lee Anniversary Kit if you want to start there?

The current Lyman reloading manual, #48, has data on the .270 WSM. Hornady and Speer recently published new editions of their manuals, and have data too, although I haven't picked them up yet. All three are good at explaining the ins and outs of reloading to beginners.

Alliant has Speer's data with their powders on this website:
http://www.alliantpowder.com/products/newCalibers/270_WSM.htm

Hodgdon has a considerable amount of data, although their website is a bit tricky to operate.
http://www.hodgdon.com/

Bye
Jack

Thanks for the info. I have been writing down my reloading supplies list. I kind of have an idea of what I need to get started. I don't mind spending the money on quality equipment. Does Hornady have a good starter kit? I was reading a post earlier where a guy bought a Win. Super Shadow 270 wsm. He was very detailed about his practices. I wrote down some of the items he uses. Stoney Point OAL guage. Hornady cam lock case trimmer set. Hornady press shell holder. Hornady New Dimension loading dies. Shell holder. Bullet puller collet for .277. Hornady press. Deburring tool. Digital scale. Digital calliper. Stoney Point Comparator Set. If you guys can think of anything else I need, please let me know. I want to get everything at once. Is it common to trim all new Winchester brass to 2.090". To make things easy starting out, I am only reloading new Winchester brass. Would that be a smart move on my part? What do you guys think about Norma brass. I was looking at some Norma 270 wsm loaded with Barnes 140 gr. TSX for sale at Midway USA. I can't believe they cost $72.00 for a box of 20. Why are these bullets so expensive? I have no trouble finding Federal 270 wsm 130 tsx, but not the 140 or 150 tsx. I hate to spend $72 for a box of bullets, but I may have to if that's all I can find. If anyone knows where I can buy a box of Federal 270 wsm with 140 tsx or 150 tsx, please let me know. 130 tsx shoots 4" at 250. Maybe 140 or 150 tsx will do better. It's factory for now until I can get my reloading operation started. Sorry for the long wind. Hunting and rifles consumes me enough. Now I'm going to add reloading. Glad I'm divorced already.

A excellent education for anyone wanting to start reloading is provided by the training department of the education and training division of the National Rifle Association. NRA basic metallic cartridge reloading, course and lesson plans. Telphone (703) 267-1423, or the NRA web site. The NRA basic metallic cartridge reloading course is a excellent way to start to learn the basic introduction to reloading correctly. Personal point of view.