Dropped by Carter's Country to escape rush hour traffic coming back from a job in south Texas. Thought I'd browse around for left hand bolts, but alas, saw none which inspired. However, there I spied a Mod 39A on the rack. Inspection proved that fit, finish and wood were acceptable, so home it came with me. The salesman asked me what I was going to tell momma ... told him, "she has her shoes, and I have my guns. Niether of us complains :D."

I learned to shoot with the original Mod 39 ... well, actually I guess the Daisy Red Ryder first. Anyways here are some picks of the old vs. new. My original, unfortunately, succumbed to significant rust and pitting in storage while working overseas a few years :(. Nowdays, paranoia has me double checking and oiling regularly.

.

I have one like your new. Installed a marble tang sight and started shooting. Shoots great. It shoots a little high but Marble is sending another part to correct that, but it very accurate. I tried several different brands of ammo. Winchester Xpert standard velocity is most accurate with CCI Mini-Mag HP a very close second. Winchester Super-X HP is near the bottom of the list.

Enjoy your 39A.

.

If you ever get the urge to work on that rebounding hammer, look me up. You can find me over at RimfireCentral as Gizzy. I can help you make that new rifle shoot better.;)

.

What is wrong with rebounding hammers? Like the crossbolt safety, it makes the gun safer. Is that a bad thing? With the CB safety on I can dry fire all day without damage to bolt/firing pin.

Installed a lower post on the tang sight. Great, now I can't see over the factory rear sight on the barrel. Loaded the original post back on and replaced the front sight with one 1/8 inch taller. Now the hood doesn't fit over the taller front sight. Everything else works great now so I'll have to be happy with a hoodless 39.

Win some, lose some.

.

The rebounding hammer hurts accuracy. While the bullet is leaving the barrel, the hammer is bouncing back. Not a good thing when you want to shoot as accurate as possible. You want the hammer to fall and stop. If any part of the gun is moving while the bullet is traveling down the barrel, no matter how breif, it will hurt accuracy. I gave my mod instructions to a guy on the other forum I am on, and his groups were cut in half.

As far as the safety. The old half cock safety worked just as well. It still taked the one carrying the gun to use the safety for it to be safe. Yes you can dry fire with the crossbolt safety, but I do not remove this feature, just the rebounding of the hammer. You still have to use the crossbolt safety with my mod.

.

You may have a point.

.

.

You may have a point.

.

In fact, a point well taken. Both of my 39's, the A and the M, were built back in the '80s, and neither have either of those features. And I'm glad, as they are both extremely accurate.

And also, the fit and function, and appearance, of both are way far beyond anything you'll find out there new today.

.............And also, the fit and function, and appearance, of both are way far beyond anything you'll find out there new today.


Don't bad-mouth my 39A, it's 5 or 6 years old and has all the unwanted features but it's all I have! :p

You know I was looking at your new one and thinking Marlin is sure coming up with some fine walnut for their stocks. Here is one I picked up yesterday.

DJR

http://DJR.smugmug.com/photos/237453420-M.jpg

http://DJR.smugmug.com/photos/237452905-M-3.jpg

Yeah DJR, they are putting pretty nice wood on them I agree. My only complaint is that on a fair number I have seen the fitting / cut of the buttstock around the tang is often a little off or crooked. I made sure to inspect mine there before buying. It's not perfect but good enough. I also can't help but think that they might be even more attractive with no checkering at all. Still, it's hard to beat those 39A's.

I definitely prefer the looks of my dads straight stocked, non-checkered Mountie!

I definitely prefer the looks of my dads straight stocked, non-checkered Mountie!

And that's why I rounded up, and bought, one of each! Like the looks of, and shoot the most, the Mountie. But the 39A is THE RIFLE for accuracy in a lever.

He is a Marlin I picked up last week. I suspect it was manufactured in the late 1920's. It has an ivory bead and knurled mag cap. Not much wear on the receiver. Someone has finished the stock which needs to be taken back to original finish. I was wondering if the canvas case was original?

Will

Welcome to Shooters Forum pwilliam710. That is one fine 39 you have there. That rifle is beautiful. Perhaps you already knew, but on a Marlin 39 of this age you will want to shoot only standard velocity ammo. Shooting high velocity ammo will run the risk of cracking the bolt. Something about the way the bolt was made on the early 39's.

I'm sorry I can't offer any info on the canvas case.

"The rebounding hammer hurts accuracy. While the bullet is leaving the barrel, the hammer is bouncing back."

Then how do Ruger 10-22s shoot such tiny groups? The whole bolt is moving while the bullet is still in the barrel.

"The rebounding hammer hurts accuracy. While the bullet is leaving the barrel, the hammer is bouncing back."

Then how do Ruger 10-22s shoot such tiny groups? The whole bolt is moving while the bullet is still in the barrel.


I will try here. On a 10/22 the return spring is MUCH weaker. The bolt come straight back.

On the 39A, the hammer has an extremely stiff spring and the hammer is coming back then down in a rocking motion.

Plus on the 10/22's, the fired case pushes the bolt back and on the Marlin, the Hammer spring and rebounding strut pushes the hammer back. Totally different workings.

There is a guy over on Rimfire Central who used my modifying instructions and cut his groups in half. Also, if you know who Bob Mundon is, the trick shot guy who does mostly with his single action colts. When you see him shoot his Marlin 39A next time, you will see the crossbolt safety, but when the gun is fired the hammer stays down. Does not rebound. Its been proven that accuracy is sacrificed with the rebounding hammer.

Some mighty fine looking 39's here. I have a 39; 1963-4 model I believe. There ain't another 22 rifle that compares to me. Nuthin like the walnut and steel. Accurate tool. Mine came with a rail mounted on the receiver for a scope. Would you'all recommend a receiver site that mounts to that or one specifically made for a 39?

Welcome to Shooters Forum pwilliam710. That is one fine 39 you have there. That rifle is beautiful. Perhaps you already knew, but on a Marlin 39 of this age you will want to shoot only standard velocity ammo. Shooting high velocity ammo will run the risk of cracking the bolt. Something about the way the bolt was made on the early 39's.

I'm sorry I can't offer any info on the canvas case.

At approximately what year do you have to worry about using hivel ammo? Do I need to use standard in my early-mid 60's 39?

Thanks, and hope I ain't hijacking.

hpdrifter,

Your 60's 39 is safe with high velocity ammo.

I use mine as my #1 squirrel rifle. It was my great grandfathers with a manufacture date of about 1890ish. The barrel was replaced in 1950 at the factory and a factory scope mount was applied
Love this extremely accurate squirrel getter and I hope it will continue to function as flawlessly as the first day it was made.

OK, Marlin experts. I have a 1891-92 Marlin which Marlin sez was made before the 39. The gun will not feed and the magazine tube design has me stumped. Does anyone have factory assembly-disassembly or repair manuels on one of these. I will pay for same. Thanks

Maybe this will help?
This site may have what you are looking for so call them.
It looks like they have the part you need in stock for $50 bucks

http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=082Zz1892

I'm curious. What did you guys pay for the new 39A's. Mine is a 1975 model that I bought new. It was right around $100, I can't remember the exact figure. I do agree Marlin is making some good looking stocks. I'm thinking about getting one of the new stocks from Marlin for both my 39-A and one of my 336's. I like the grain in the walnut, and I like the checkering. All of mine are plain.

I think I paid $495.00 out the door.

Gave between $69 and $79 for mine new back in the early 70's. Had it so long don't remember exactly what it was. It was one of the above. Think I
might as well keep it. Bob

OK, Marlin experts. I have a 1891-92 Marlin which Marlin sez was made before the 39. The gun will not feed and the magazine tube design has me stumped. Does anyone have factory assembly-disassembly or repair manuels on one of these. I will pay for same. Thanks

Check with Marlin. They have manuals available per their web site. You know that the marlin you have is very valuable if it is the early 1891 or 92.

I still have my Grandaddy's 39A that was the first 'real' gun I ever shot, and now it shoots better than I can see. Unfortunately, I sent it off years ago to be refinished (no rust or corrosion at all), and the guy I had been talking with passed away. It came back a beautiful glossy deep blue - - - everywhere. No color case hardening. I called them and the guy was very apologetic, but said they didn't know that was the plan, and they didn't know how to do it anyway. Maybe if I hit the lottery I will take another run at it.
When one goes to changing out sights, keep in mind that there are alternatives for all four sight locations; tang, receiver, barrel rear, and front. I put a tang on a Cowboy, and instead of removing the rear sight or raising the front one, I replaced the rear with a Marble's folding leaf.

My 39 with no checkering, done a little work on this $20 tag sale gun. It had both front and back sights busted and was rusty on the outside, but pristine inside.

Ohhhh.... those lines are just right! I love that gun Swany!

Ohhhh.... those lines are just right! I love that gun Swany!

Find a beater 39A and make it into a straight lever, slim the fore stock and butt stock after straightening the lever. Actually quite simple to do.

39-A's vs henry golden boy ? friend of mine has a lil 22 golden boy REAL GOOD SHOOTER

Right up front; I don't own a Henry. I do own 4 Marlin 39A's or the variant thereof, the 1897's.

Henry; less expensive, smooth operation, nice rifle for the money.

Marlin 39A's; Solid steel, solid steel, heirloom quality, built to last, easy disassembly, one of the longest continual productiion runs of any rimfire (maybe the longest).

Not saying Henry's aren't good. I'm just saying I believe the Marlin is better built and will last longer.

I own a Henry GB, and 4 Marlin 39's; 3 A's & a D. The Henry is purty, and shoots pretty good, but I'm still looking for more 39's. I'll find a nice Mountie one of these days.
I also have a CZ 452 Lux, and a Winny 9422. I still collect 39's because I think they are the best. They ARE the longest production rifle in the USA, rimfire OR centerfire. Let's just hope Remington doesn't ruin that streak now that they own Marlin...
My 1950 39A is my favorite to shoot and hunt with. No scopes either!

OK, Marlin experts. I have a 1891-92 Marlin which Marlin sez was made before the 39. The gun will not feed and the magazine tube design has me stumped. Does anyone have factory assembly-disassembly or repair manuels on one of these. I will pay for same. Thanks


Go over to rimfirecentral.com, go to the Marlin section and look for vepr762. He collects them and would have the info you need.

I definitely prefer the looks of my dads straight stocked, non-checkered Mountie!


Gotta love the mountie! Found one for $175 and snatched it up! Darn gun shoots better than I ever will!

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1600/682422/9250908/308379472.jpg

I have a 39-A with a Weaver scope and leather case. The ser.# is E 20911. Can someone give me an idea how old this rifle is??

1948

Never keep a gun in a leather case. The tannic acid causes rust.