Hi, All:
I just bought a Ruger #3 rifle in .22Hornet. I bought it at the Ft.meyers gun show today. In looking up info on this #3 rifle, I am finding very little. I tried to get an owners manual from the Ruger web site, and the #3 must be Ruger's red heded step child, as they only list it as out of production, and there is no info on their web sight.
This rifle has the original rear sight removed and a blank installed in the dovetail. It has a two piece Redfield base installed. Did the #3 Rugers come complete with a base, like the #1 rifles did? Does anyone make a apparature sight that will fit the#3? I have rings and scopes back in Ohio, but I am in Florida for the winter and would like to shoot this rifle with iron sights, untill I get back to Ohio. Where would I be able to find a manual, and some info on this gun?
Thanks
Chubbo

The owners manual is on Rugers website.
Try this link. http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/PDF/InstructionManuals/46.pdf

The No. 3 rifle seems to have become very collectible.

The Ruger No.3 was made in quite a few calibers...many people, myself included, liked the #3 action better than the #1. The Hornets were nice, but would string some loads vertical.
The rear sight was the standard Lyman fold down sight and can still be ordered from Brownell and others.
We see very few #3's on the open market. The #3 in 45-70 is a prime item!
Regards, James

The number 3's are out of production, but basically they are a number 1 action with a slightly different lever. They take down exactly the same. If the action is drilled and tapped a receiver sight will go on it. If the redfield base is tapped on the action then a receiver sight will go right on. If it's tapped on the barrel then probably not. If not you may have to have it drilled and tapped. You can check out Brownell's to see what will fit. They do not come with a scope base as the the Number 1's do.

You can put a set of Williams fire sights where the original sight base was, there very shootable sights. Brownells will have them.

Like Ken said those are becoming very collectible and they are a dandy shooter to boot.

Proably would be cheaper to mount a cheap scope on the existing base (use good rings...those you'll keep on board) and more full filling for the distances/size targets you'll shoot with the .22hornet. Won't expect a cheap scope to last rforever, but at the recoil level of the .22 Hornet would certainly do the job until you get back to Ohio.

Emphisis a stragiht 4X...in cheap-scope-world, simple is better, so the fewer things to loosen, wobble, wiggle, fall off, crack, or freeze up the better.

#3's are great short rifles....the little carbine stype straight stock (with hard butt plate) is right at home with a .22hornet...kind of hurts on the 45-70 version.

The only three areas to twiddle with for mechanical accuracy are :
1. Fore end. Some like a bit of contact, some like to be free floated.
2. Barrel band...most don't much care for barrel to band contact, but many will work just fine with the band LOOSE (have glued them to the forend wioth no barrel contact at all, just keeping the band for looks)>
3. The #3 (and the #1) don't have the hardest hammer strike..it's perfectly acceptable, but once clogged with dirt/grass seeds/congealed grease, etc. thens to slow the striker down...which makes ignition a little variable. Many time have gotten much better groups after detail cleaning a gunked-up action.

Good find Chubbo! Great rifle/cartidge combo. As mentioned, a good cleaning of the "works" can help alot. "Extra power" springs are easy to find. Triggers I've seen were very good as issued(and can be played with some).
The Hornet makes good sence to me as a cartridge. Low powered scope is the way I would go. 2.5 to 7X maybe? I've never shot one with open sights before. I might enjoy that too.

Envy from Iowa,

Cheezywan

Thanks All, for the info. I have tried several times to bring up the Ruger web site, on manuals, but it only stops in the middle of the download. There must be something with my server or computer. I guess I will have to find another sorce for an owners manual. I took some of your advice and went back to the show Sunday and bought rings and a scope. Will try this rifle as soon as possable.
Thanks again.
Chubbo

Some of us actually like the #3 lever better than the #1. The #1 is elegant, but looks "English" to me....the #3 just looks more "American".

Chubbo
I have the #3 manual. Ruger website is where it came from. About 1 meg pdf. Runs fine. You should prefer to get it from "them" rather than me. I trust "me" more than "both of you". You should do the same.

Ribbonstone;

I would agree that the #1 "looks" more elegant to me too. I have read your posts similar before. Never could "see" the English/American thing. No matter. Is just perception of style.


Try to get back on topic. I like both rifles. Never heard of a "head to head" test comparison between the two.
The action of them is what I like. Simple and strong they are. I would be proud to own either.

Cheezywan

Having both the No 1 and No 3 Rugers in 22 Hornet as far as head to head comparisons go I can see little differences between the two. Under the right conditions one might be better in that situation than the other but there both very good. Once your overcome the initial adjustments that might be needed in foreend pressures for accuracy they both shoot accurately--less than MOA with my standard load. Both have accounted for hundreds of varmits in PD fields. Since the No 3 has a 22" barrel vs the No 1's 26" barrel handling is faster with the No 3. Scope mounting is more positive and I believe better on the No 1. Never cared for the barrel bands on the No 3 or for that matter 10/22's either. The most accurate No 3 has been modified by someone who fitted a foreend without the barrel band.

Of the #1 and #3 Rugers, I prefer the appearance/balance/looks of the #3. But then I prefer carbines in general- have been able to harvest game just fine with carbines.
In 1982 had 2 #3's in .223 re bored/re chambered to .257 Rbts (gave one to friend in Wyoming - he's taken all of his antelope/deer/elk with his ever since), I used the other one for caribou in Alaska for many years...barrel band and all, it shoots just fine. Two years ago had a #3 in .223 re bored/re chambered to .308 WCF and its accuracy is most impressive with Federal 165 gr Fusions. I've 2 #3's in .30-40 Krag, they also shoot extremely well. Another #3 in .223, with 4-14x scope takes ground squirrels wayyy out there. Barrel bands still on all of the #3's. Now I'll admit that I have relieved the metal on the barrel band where it goes over the barrel itself! The barrel band just gives it that older type of Trapdoor carbine look.
I've had 2 .22 Hornets over the years, but not at present. They performed well, but not real tack drivers. I've had a few people over the years tell me they had their .22 Hornet #3's re chambered to .22 K-Hornet, and this improved the accuracy. Why this might be, not sure?
Next project is to be putting together a 6mmBR barrel I bought from a varmint hunter who has gone to .22 cal use, along with custom stock, he'd had on a Ruger #3 at one time. I'll use either a #1 or #3 action.
Hope didn't put anyone to sleep here...

"This rifle has the original rear sight removed and a blank installed in the dovetail. It has a two piece Redfield base installed. Did the #3 Rugers come complete with a base, like the #1 rifles did? Does anyone make a apparature sight that will fit the#3?"

Ruger #3's did not come with a scope base like the #1's do. Ruger made/makes a two piece base set, which takes Ruger ring. #3's also take an aftermarket two piece base setup, Weaver, Redfield, other.
As far as receiver/peep sights, Williams makes one specifically for the #1/#3, some older Lyman/Redfield receiver sights will also fit, just not sure which ones will? The Williams #1/#3 receiver sight does just fine. I have one on a #3 in .30-40 Krag (with Redfield sourdough partridge front sight, a most classic set up). It works very well, plenty of accuracy, looks good, but there's only one thing, you will have to drill n' tap the receiver to attach the receiver/peep sight. As long as you don't mind putting non-factory holes in the receiver, it works fine. I'd think the .22 Hornet would be more suited for field/varmint use, with a scope...though a peep sighted .22 Hornet carbine would make for a nice walk around field gun.
We all scratch our own fleas differently!

I have not taken my #3 .22Hornet to the range yet, but I have added the Redfield rings to the Redfield two piece bases that came with the rifle, and installed a Nikon 3-9X40 scope, and bore sighted it. The more I look at, and handle this rifle the better I like it. I would like to find a stock, and fore end blank, in some nice wood, or refinish this stock with a rubbed oil finish. does anyone know of anyone offering a steel, or brass butt plate, and the same in a bbl. band? I think this little carbine could be made into quite a looker, more along the lines of my #1 .243 Alexander Henery style. Any thoughts on this matter?
Chubbo

I seem to recall that a No. 1 buttstock will fit. Does your rifle have a plastic butt plate? I think I remember listings for a steel one but I may be confusing myself with the 10/22.

If so, it would dress it up a lot to have the barrel band and a new steel butt plate case hardened.

Brass hardware on that rifle doesn't appeal to me (and I have not seen any for sale) but to each his own.

Check with George at http://www.treebonecarving.com/id18.html He offers replacement stocks and does excellent work. Sand and use Watco oil finish (Home Depot) for a darker wood finish, comes out very nice.
I bought a couple of metal butt plates years ago, here's what Brownell's offers: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=320&title=RUGER~+STEEL+BUTTPLATE
Don't know about a replacement barrel band out there?
Yes, the more one's around & use the #3's, the more they tend to like them...

The Number 1 buttstock will fit on a Number 3, but I always had to change the bend on the lever a little to make it comfortable to shoot when I did this.

Other tips:
you can cut up old credit cards to use between the fore end and barrel to see how much contact you need for best accuracy. You can change the length and position to determine the best points of contact. once this is determined, you can glass bed in those spots, or you can leave the pieces of card and use it that way.

I prefer glass bedding on the fore end but there are other ways to accomplish accuracy with the #1 and #3 one method uses a set screw and the piece of rubber mentioned before both work.

Almost all of the accessories for a #1 will work on a #3, but you may have to modify some things to fit.

The Number 3 is a great action and here again, I did not understand the marketing strategy used to sell them. You'll find them in some really fine calibers; .45-70, .44 mag, .375 Win, .30-40 Krag, 30-30 and .22 Hornet, but I never could understand why they were not available in more popular hunting rounds like the .270 or .30-06. I guess such things are beyond me.

Well, have fun with your Number 3, I always had a good time with mine.

Regards,
Gene

As an aside regarding Ruger #3 carbines: In December 2003, while I was setup for making custom western hats, at the Riveria Hotel in Las Vegas for the SASS Annual Convention, I spoke with the factory reps from Ruger about 'who handled their customer wish lists?" A senior member/supervisor for Ruger stepped forward. I asked if he thought the #3 would ever re-appear as a factory offering again? He told me the Ruger 'bean counters' (accountants) had decided the cost effectiveness/profit return on the #3's was not within their parameters/profit margin, and thus decided to drop the #3's. They said it cost nearly as much to manufacture the #3's as it did the #1's, and lack of sales (back then) and accounting practices, was the fate of the #3. He said he had been told at the factory, it is extremely doubtful Ruger would ever manufacture the #3's again? One never knows what Ruger will come up with, or reintroduce into the market again, not even them sometimes? So, if you find a suitable #3 out there, and it lights your fire, best grab onto it while you can still find them. Yes, they are out there, but are getting harder and harder to find on the used market these days...

The only full rifle build I've done was on a #3 action. Back then, finding a used #3 was a lot cheaper than getting a #1 action and i like the look of the #3's lever. Nothing too fancy, mostly a combination of good parts put together with a whole lot of time/care. Douglas 28" barrel, Canjar Set (after all, you don't HAVE to set it), way-way too much $ on pretty wood, a few little odds and ends.

Had it chambered in 6.5RM, chambered long enough that 140gr. bullets would end up just at the shoulder/case neck juncture. That added powder space, some careful load work, and 28" of barrel made a little more than 3000fps with several loads.

What i learned along the way:
1. Really need to fit that buttstock well. Any shift there (even un-noticed by human senses) results in vertical shifts.
2. The fore end is twitchy. Wanted to drill and tap the fore end hanger for a set screw to press on a brass "foot" that rested on the barrel...a way to supply vairable "up" pressure (and brass is less likely to bind) between the hanger and the barrel; the wooden fore end didn't touch at all. Did the job, but the hanger is so hard that I bored a larger hole in it...soldered in a softer circle of steel...then drilled and tapped though that circle.

Today...I'd not bother with that. Did seem to find a "sweet spot" but using shims would have worked just as well with a lot less effort.

3. Even with 28" of barrel, it's about as long as a bolt gun with 24". I still look at barrel length as "free power"as it doesn't cost anything in terms of pressure.

About five years ago I saw a Number 3 in .375 Win and the fella was asking $475.00. I walked away and within an hour I had talked myself into buying it. Sad news is when I returned to his table it was already sold. Live and learn.

Hi, All:
I did call Ruger and recieved a owners manual for my #3.
I have installed a Nicon 3-9x40 scope in Redfield rings. The more that I handle, and look at this little #3, the more that I want to customise it. I intend to build a butt plate, and bbl. band, a set out of brass, and also out of steel. I think that the brass setup might be a little to gaudy, but I am going to try it, by building the butt plate out of brass and having the bbl. band plated, as it is pot metal, just to see what it looks like. I want to do the plate in steel, and the band also, and would like to have them color case hardned. I would like to checker the plate, but have no experience in metal checkering or case hardening, either. I might have to settal for just bluing them. Anyone have any experience with the checkering, and ccase hardening?
Chubbo

Thanks All, for the info. I have tried several times to bring up the Ruger web site, on manuals, but it only stops in the middle of the download. There must be something with my server or computer. I guess I will have to find another sorce for an owners manual. I took some of your advice and went back to the show Sunday and bought rings and a scope. Will try this rifle as soon as possable.
Thanks again.
Chubbo

I am unable to download a PDF file through Windows Internet Explorer. Firefox works fine. hope this helps.

B

You can buy the steel checkering files from Brownell's. Just get some scrap to practice on, especially curves. As far as Case hardening for colors your best off to farm that out to someone whom does a lot of it and has the proper tools to do it. It's a bit more complicated than I'd want to get into and I ran a gunsmith shop for a bunch of years.

I bought a steel buttplate from Brownells. the plate does not fit my #3's stock at all. If I use it, I will have to shorten the stock by about one half an inch, so as to re inlet the plate into the stock at the right height. That won't matter, as the stock is too long for me anyway. I can't get the scope close enough to get the right eye relief, with the bases & rings that I have on the #3. Has anyone put a #1 rib on a #3? Would the mounting screw holes line up etc ? I would like to use one on this #3, so as to use the offset rings that Ruger makes, to set the scope back a little more, to get better eye relief. I have been planning the reshapeing of the stock, and fore arm. I plan to eliminate the bbl. band, as I don't think anyone makes a steel replacement. I would have liked to used a steel bbl. band and have both the band, and the butt plate case hardened. I think that would look great. Probably the #3 would shoot better without the bbl. band anyway.
Chubbo

What brand of scope do you have on the#3? Some scopes are more forgiving than others.Q

The Scope is a 3-9x40 Nicon