This is my first post; I just got Cabela's 1858 and I need a littlt help. Two questions... there is no "head space" on a bp pistio but with the recomended load there is almost a 1/2 inch jump to the forcing cone. Is this ok? I've heard about fillers.. any comments ? Finally how do you remove a loaded ball from a cylinder without having to fire it; I patched 6 conicle balls before I knew better and they were no fun shooting out. Thanks, Al

Some people like to use fill between the powder and the ball...cream of wheat or corn meal seem favorites. Would have to try it and see if it makes enough difference to keep on using; some guns really respond to it well and others shoot about the same. So far, haven't found it to make any of them shoot worse.


Usually find the right amount of filler, then either cut a scoop to toss the same amount each time. Idea is to have just enough to fill the space and allow seating the ball about 1/8" below flush.

No real good way to unload. Can decap, remove the cylinder, and pull the balls/bullets from the front by way of a worm (like a wood screw on a handle). So long as the load is a safe one, i'll just shoot it out.

Am guessing that if you had a sourse of compressed air, could remove cylinder/decap/remove nipples, and press a rubber fitting to each hole and blow powder and ball out if you had 75-125PSI to work with.

Next time, might try removing the caps, removing the nipples, emptying the powder, and tapping out the bullets (back to front) with a suitable rod.

Might also consider loading five chambers and leaving the hammer resting on the empty sixth for safety purposes. The hammer resting on a cap can go off if struck with sufficient force.

AL hi this is what I can tell you is on a cap and ball.
#1 powder
#2ball
#3 crisco or bore butter on top of ball or such to prevent chain fire or felt wad under ball because one fire can set them all off ! when you use the lube method just enough around the top of the ball to shut off the fire to the other chambers don't get crazy with the lube. all Iam saying get the basics down then worry about fillers or any other voodoo. YOU should get a black powder handbook by SAM FADALA get the basics then GO FROM THERE. like ribbonstone said wood screw or self tapping screw.

One more thing to keep in mind is to have the right size caps. Make sure they fit snugly on the nipple; you don't want the unfired ones coming off under recoil as that is how MOST chainfires occur...from the nipple end. Emery

I guess I'm an oddball when it comes to C&B revolvers. My favorites are the 1851 44 cal. made by Pietta. I use them ( with blanks) for reenacting and they never misfire! The same is true for bulleted loads. I fill the chambers full of powder, then compress the powder, then install my 200 grain RNFP lubed with liquid alox, then I top it off with toilet bowl wax. These are magnum loads and they are sufficient for hogs and deer!

Midsouth Shooters Supply sells a percussion cap kit for $20. I've got two kits. Tap-O-Cap is the name. I can make 1000 caps for less than $3. They are better than CCI, and when one gets into the guts of your revolver they don't "hang " things up like the store-bought ones do.

Might also consider loading five chambers and leaving the hammer resting on the empty sixth for safety purposes. The hammer resting on a cap can go off if struck with sufficient force.

If you look at the back of the cylinder, there are slots between the nipples that you can rotate under the hammer, and thus you could load all six, and rest the hammer there. this is how I carry New Army when I am hunting with it. Also, on another note, if you decide to use bore butter or crisco, you have to remember that its not a good idea to leave them loaded if you take it hunting and don't shoot... in other words, you need to unload the cylinder if you plan on storing it. If you don't use bore butter, you can just decap and store in a dry place. Hope this helps some.

Jason